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  #21  
Old 01-02-2013, 08:43 PM
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Dr Ducks Ax Wax.http://www.ducksdeluxe.com/ddaxwax.html
  #22  
Old 01-02-2013, 09:08 PM
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Goo Gone worked for me when I got an insane desire to play at home immediately after putting up my Christmas tree a couple of weeks ago. Still had a little sap on my thumb after scrubbing down, and it gummed up the back of the neck really quickly.

I tried 0000 steel wool on the glossy back of my MIJ Jazz neck not too long ago to make the feel more satiny. It didn't seem to make any difference.
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  #23  
Old 01-02-2013, 09:22 PM
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My thoughts on the subject:
  • Don't use abrasive pads or steel wool unless you want to change the surface finish (I like a satin finish so this doesn't bother me)
  • Don't use furniture polish as it contains silicones which penetrate the clearcoat making future finish repairs impossible.
  • Don't use WD-40 or 3-in-1 oil (or any machine oil for that matter) as it will penetrate and stain the clearcoat and eventually stain the wood, which is especially noticeable if it's maple.
  • Naptha is the only solvent safe to use on poly or nitro finishes.
  • There are many guitar-specific products that are cleaner/polish combinations. They work fine but are expensive compared to Naptha, which also has many other uses around the house or shop.
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  #24  
Old 01-02-2013, 09:42 PM
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Lemon Oil!!!
  #25  
Old 01-03-2013, 06:28 AM
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  #26  
Old 01-03-2013, 06:41 AM
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Lighter fluid works great and doesn't harm the poly finish on my Fender, or the CV on my Ric.

WD-40 is also a pretty good solvent for goo.

My personal favorite is Hoppes #9 gun cleaning solvent. I've never used it on my Ric, but it doesn't eat Tung oil or Poly, and it smells GREAT!

*****EDIT*****

This is very sage advice:

Quote:
Originally Posted by testing1two View Post
My thoughts on the subject:
  • Don't use abrasive pads or steel wool unless you want to change the surface finish (I like a satin finish so this doesn't bother me)
  • Don't use furniture polish as it contains silicones which penetrate the clearcoat making future finish repairs impossible.
  • Don't use WD-40 or 3-in-1 oil (or any machine oil for that matter) as it will penetrate and stain the clearcoat and eventually stain the wood, which is especially noticeable if it's maple.
  • Naptha is the only solvent safe to use on poly or nitro finishes.
  • There are many guitar-specific products that are cleaner/polish combinations. They work fine but are expensive compared to Naptha, which also has many other uses around the house or shop.
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  #27  
Old 01-03-2013, 06:55 AM
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Professionally speaking and no disrespect to anyone here but I have some concerns on some of these answers and a few questions...

My questions are why is your neck so sticky? It shouldnt be, especially if you clean it every time.. My concern is did the harsh chemicals either on there own or residue mixing soften up the finish so its actually the finish gumming up and not being dirty?

Scotch Brite and sand paper?!?!?! - I work on over 300 basses a year, I MAYBE need to use this stuff on .5 or 1% of the basses and its due to neglect, not a cleaning. You remove the finish every time you do and over time you have none.

WD40 - is a lubricant
Goof Off, Naptha, Zippo fluid - continued use will "melt away" the finish. No doubt
Harsh solvents - Its sweat, not axle grease

ALL the above will eat your finish, lift your finish or dull your finish..

Furniture or guitar polish is all you need. IMO and no endorsement here but the Dean Markley 3 stage system works great on dirty finishes and the polish is a good cleaner...

Any other luthiers have thoughts?
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  #28  
Old 01-03-2013, 08:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtripoli View Post
Seriously?!
Light fluid
Steel wool...what the heck, everybody is a comedienne?
neither of those items are even allowed in the same room with my basses.
Any decent luthier can tell you that naphtha (lighter fluid) is THE best cleaner for nitrocellulose and UV urethane finishes.

I agree that steel wool is a bit of overkill unless one wants to cut the gloss on a finished neck.

A bit of soap and water on a damp cloth and wiped dry works fine, too. Then maintain it by keeping a microfiber cloth in your case and wipe down the neck and strings after playing.
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  #29  
Old 01-03-2013, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtripoli View Post
Seriously?!
Light fluid
Steel wool...what the heck, everybody is a comedienne?
neither of those items are even allowed in the same room with my basses.
You must be new, you'll learn
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  #30  
Old 01-03-2013, 11:41 AM
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Um - If any of my repair guys even approached a vintage bass with naptha or lighter fluid - he's working in another shop... Ill see if I have the pix of a guy who wiped down a 63 white Jbass.. He now has a cloudy chalk bass... If this stuff gets in a gap, creavase, chip, check etc - its gonna do damage... The only time we use this stuff is maybe to remove sticker residue and its done very carefully and very rarely..
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  #31  
Old 01-03-2013, 11:44 AM
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S'mojo. Leave it alone.
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  #32  
Old 01-03-2013, 12:54 PM
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Using ANY solvent on an unknown finish can be a problem. But on nitro or poly finished basses naphtha is the way to go for deep cleaning. That said, I have instruments here that are 50 years old and more, that have never been touched by any solvent ... it usually isn't necessary for ordinary dirt and grime on an acquired bass, and better is to prevent the build up in the first place.
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