Help me with a nut...

[SUBass]

I think I'm having an issue with the nut on my 5-string Warmoth build. I had Warmoth install the nut and it's been okay...But I'm finding some tuning/intonation issues that I can't quite work out and suspect a nut issue.

I pretty much exclusively use Circle K strings in a "balanced" set consisting of:
.136 B
.100 E
.076 A
.055 D
.040 G

I'm pretty sure the Warmoth cut nut was made for a more traditional sized set, and looking at the wear patterns in the nut slots, the strings aren't making contact right (for instance, the B seems to hit in the "middle" of the nut instead of the front).

I'm not interested in purchasing the nut files and making my own nuts (I might do this once or twice...Not worth the $100+ dollars in files), so I'm interested in someone making a nut for me.

One thing I'd like to know a little more about is nut materials. I've read the marketing speak from a few different companies...But what is the real world experience like? What are the pro's/con's of graphite, bone, plastic, etc?

Thanks!

James

[Slowgypsy]

You could simply fix the nut slots you already have. Would be the "path of least resistance" method. Personally, I've found little difference between the different nut materials. Some work a bit easier/cleaner than others, but sound wise the nut really doesn't have much influence in anything other than an open string. I suppose I'd choose bone if making a new nut, but that's just a personal preference.

[Zooberwerx]

Originally Posted by Slowgypsy

You could simply fix the nut slots you already have. Would be the "path of least resistance" method. Personally, I've found little difference between the different nut materials. Some work a bit easier/cleaner than others, but sound wise the nut really doesn't have much influence in anything other than an open string. I suppose I'd choose bone if making a new nut, but that's just a personal preference.

Agree 100%. It would be easier (and cheaper!) just to re-work the nut slots to accommodate your custom string set. I'm not surprised that the B was addressed as a "problem child"....it's a big hunkin' string and resistant to bending hence the abnormal contact. If the slot is wide enough, you may want to consider re-setting the witness point by firmly pressing down on the B string on the fretboard side of the nut. This may help as it establishes the necessary bend. FWIW, you should be doing this at the bridge saddles, as well. If all else fails, a trip to your local tech is in order.

Riis

[SUBass]

Okay okay....Thanks for the kick in the pants.

One of my stocking-stuffers this year was a digital caliper. I took the nut off, measured some drill bits wrapped in 320 sandpaper, and found the sizes I needed. A few minutes of grinding on the B, E, and A string sots and life is good.

Now...I know that having the witness point (I think that's the right word) at the nut is essential for proper tuning, but...would an improper seat in the nut cause "tone" issues on fretted notes of the string?

I had intonation issues with the A string mostly. However the tone of the B and E strings was always a "funky" compared to the rest of the instrument even when playing fretted notes. Now those strings seem to sound "truer" and more even with the rest of the instrument.

I'll need to play on it some more.

TB is a great place!

Thanks guys!!!

[Zooberwerx]

Originally Posted by SUBass

Now...I know that having the witness point (I think that's the right word) at the nut is essential for proper tuning, but...would an improper seat in the nut cause "tone" issues on fretted notes of the string?I had intonation issues with the A string mostly. However the tone of the B and E strings was always a "funky" compared to the rest of the instrument even when playing fretted notes. Now those strings seem to sound "truer" and more even with the rest of the instrument.

I can't give you a good answer as various factors may influence tone anomolies...twisted strings, etc. Common sense would normally dictate that a poorly cut nut is no longer a part of the equation once the string is fretted (with the exception of "back buzz") but this may not hold true. I'm sure somebody can shed some addt'l light on the subject. In the meantime, glad to hear the rest of the project has gone well.

Riis