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  #1  
Old 04-12-2007, 06:36 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, Michigan
Help with mystery sounds

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I own a fender mim jazz and I'm getting some pretty odd sounds from it that I can't quite fix. First of all my E string sounds horrible. It makes this metalic sound when I play open E and is even worse if I slap. I've heard that it's pretty normal for open E's to sound like this, but I think my bass is worse than the standard E sound. I purchased a gotoh 201 bridge thinking it would take care of this problem, but it's almost worse with the new bridge. I'm wondering if it's a setup thing because I'm no expert. After installing the gotoh bridge I'm getting horrible buzzing when I play an open A. The sound seems to be coming from the nut. When I push down on the strings between the tuners and the nut the problem goes away with the A string and the problem with the E string is much better, but not perfect. I thought maybe the truss rod needed adjusting, and when I looked at the action (using the instructions with this forums sticky link) it seems slightly high, but not too much. I don't really think it's enough to cause these problems, but I'm not sure. I changed my strings a few months ago to Boomers heavy gauge strings so I'm wondering if they're too big for the nut possibly?

Well I looked this up and couldn't quite find any answers. I've given as much information that I can think of. Can anyone help me with my problem? I appreciate any help.

Last edited by boonerstreet : 04-12-2007 at 07:10 PM.
  #2  
Old 04-12-2007, 07:40 PM
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You state that the buzz goes away when you push the string down behind the nut. Number one problem with this symptom is a lack of back pressure on the nut. The string should be wound from the top of the peg down toward the headstock. Check that first. As far as string to nut fit goes, take a look. Improper nut sizing would exacerbate the problem. That could be part of the problem with the E string.

Let us know if that helps.
  #3  
Old 04-12-2007, 08:12 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, Michigan
Ah, you helped me out there. I normally string my bass like you said, but when I replaced the bridge I installed the A string incorrectly. I actually just noticed that before seeing your post. The E string is wound correctly but I'm still getting that annoying sound. Well, I'll back up a bit.

I took another look at my bass a little while ago and noticed the nut had actually moved! It slid almost a quarter of an inch off of the neck at the side with the E string. I loosened the strings and pushed it back so it was flush with both sides of the neck. Once the nut was back in place (along with re-stringing it the A string) the A string sounded much better, but when I pluck open A hard I still get some buzzing at the nut. Once the nut was back in place I noticed the E string had a slight bend going from the nut to the tuner, and when I slap the open E string, it bounces out of the slot on the nut. So I'm thinking that if I want to keep the heavy gauge strings I should probably buy a new nut.

So as of now I'm having worse problems with the open E string, and slight buzzing with the open A string. Thanks for the advice 202dy, and I'm looking forward to any future help anyone can offer.
  #4  
Old 04-12-2007, 08:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boonerstreet View Post

I took another look at my bass a little while ago and noticed the nut had actually moved! It slid almost a quarter of an inch off of the neck at the side with the E string. I loosened the strings and pushed it back so it was flush with both sides of the neck. Once the nut was back in place (along with re-stringing it the A string) the A string sounded much better, but when I pluck open A hard I still get some buzzing at the nut. Once the nut was back in place I noticed the E string had a slight bend going from the nut to the tuner, and when I slap the open E string, it bounces out of the slot on the nut. So I'm thinking that if I want to keep the heavy gauge strings I should probably buy a new nut.

So as of now I'm having worse problems with the open E string, and slight buzzing with the open A string. Thanks for the advice 202dy, and I'm looking forward to any future help anyone can offer.
Chances are that the problem with the E string is the E string. If you have an old one replace it and see what happens. The bend is placing an odd strain on the string and making it unseat itself. Is the string binding in the nut? The slight buzzing with the open sounds like a set-up issue. It does not appear that you will need a new nut. You might want to put a drop or two of white glue under the nut to eliminate any slipping when changing strings.
  #5  
Old 04-12-2007, 09:17 PM
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Location: Ann Arbor, Michigan
It almost looks as if the bend is caused by the slot in the nut not aligning with the side of the tuner, not a natural bend in the string. As for switching E strings, I only have one heavy gauge E string, and that's on the bass. I'll go out tomorrow and buy some new strings and see what happens.
I'm still not seeing any better results with the A string though. Man I don't want to spend money on a tech, but I'm afraid I may have to see one in the future. Thanks for the help again.
  #6  
Old 04-12-2007, 09:53 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Lewisville, TX
Stupid question, but when you string your bass, how many wraps do you have on the posts, and are you winding top down like you should? If not, go for 3 to 4 wraps, and always have the string wrap from the top of the post down toward the headstock, to ensure maximum downward pressure of the strings on the nut. Also, since this is a Fender (no tilt on the headstock), you DO have the string trees in place on the headstock (and are using them) don't you?

- Tim
  #7  
Old 04-12-2007, 11:25 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Gladstone, QLD, Australia
First off, I find that slotted tuners are 10 times easier to string than those with a hole...

I generally cut the string about 2.5" past the slot, then I stick the end of the string into the hole in the slot and bend it over...then a WIND it spiraling downward...

WIND your string, don't "wrap" it, because wrapping will introduce a twist in your string...

For my guitars, they aren't slotted, but rather have holes...these are a bit more difficult...
for these, I don't cut the strings until i am finished...
I pull the string through til it's taught, and then push it back about 2" and bend the string on the "back" side (vs. nut side) of the hole, such that the bend is opposite the wrap...
then I make 1 wrap ABOVE the hole, and finish wrapping the rest, BELOW the hole (again, spiraling downward).

Buy doing it this way (1 above, rest below), the wraps pinch together and tend to "lock" the string into the tuner.
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  #8  
Old 04-13-2007, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tadawson View Post
Stupid question, but when you string your bass, how many wraps do you have on the posts, and are you winding top down like you should? If not, go for 3 to 4 wraps, and always have the string wrap from the top of the post down toward the headstock, to ensure maximum downward pressure of the strings on the nut. Also, since this is a Fender (no tilt on the headstock), you DO have the string trees in place on the headstock (and are using them) don't you?

- Tim
Yeah, I'm using the trees, but those are only for the D and G strings which I am having no problems with. I've only been doing two windings on the tuners so I'll give that a try, but I am winding top to bottom. Like I said I don't know much about setting up my bass and I appreciate any advice. Thanks.
  #9  
Old 04-13-2007, 08:43 AM
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Location: Ann Arbor, Michigan
Quote:
Originally Posted by PilbaraBass View Post
First off, I find that slotted tuners are 10 times easier to string than those with a hole...

I generally cut the string about 2.5" past the slot, then I stick the end of the string into the hole in the slot and bend it over...then a WIND it spiraling downward...

WIND your string, don't "wrap" it, because wrapping will introduce a twist in your string...

For my guitars, they aren't slotted, but rather have holes...these are a bit more difficult...
for these, I don't cut the strings until i am finished...
I pull the string through til it's taught, and then push it back about 2" and bend the string on the "back" side (vs. nut side) of the hole, such that the bend is opposite the wrap...
then I make 1 wrap ABOVE the hole, and finish wrapping the rest, BELOW the hole (again, spiraling downward).

Buy doing it this way (1 above, rest below), the wraps pinch together and tend to "lock" the string into the tuner.
I'm almost overwhelmed. Thanks for the info and I'll give that a try.
  #10  
Old 04-13-2007, 08:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tadawson View Post
Stupid question, but when you string your bass, how many wraps do you have on the posts, and are you winding top down like you should? If not, go for 3 to 4 wraps, and always have the string wrap from the top of the post down toward the headstock, to ensure maximum downward pressure of the strings on the nut. Also, since this is a Fender (no tilt on the headstock), you DO have the string trees in place on the headstock (and are using them) don't you?

- Tim
Not a stupid question at all. It takes three or four wraps to get sufficient back pressure at the nut to eliminate problems. On basses that do not have a tilt to the headstock it is best that the string is wound from the top to the bottom of the peg.
  #11  
Old 04-13-2007, 01:43 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, Michigan
After re-wrapping my strings the sound of the E string was pretty much fixed. It's still a little funky, but I think thats normal for boomers seeing as how they have the boomers plus with an E string that isn't supposed to sound bad. I wound the A string with as many wraps as I could and the buzzing is reduced, but still present. If I push down on it between the nut and the tuner it goes away. I'm using the whole lenth of the long scale string that came with the package, so I can't wind it any more. This is with an old set of strings that I bought in december though, so later today I'm going to go buy some new strings and try them out. Thanks for all the help guys, I'm slowly making some progress here. I was planning on just purchasing boomers plus heavy gauge strings because they're cheap. Any suggestions for a different brand? I'm sticking with heavy gauge roundwounds and that's pretty much it.

Last edited by boonerstreet : 04-13-2007 at 01:45 PM.
  #12  
Old 04-13-2007, 05:35 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, Michigan
Ahrg, no new strings today. What kind of music store closes at 6 pm on a friday?! Once I put some new strings on my bass I'll update this for you guys. Thanks for all the help so far.
  #13  
Old 04-14-2007, 09:09 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, Michigan
Aaaahhhh, new strings. E sound is pretty much fixed with the new strings and the right set up. A string is a little buzzy, but the slot on the nut is a little worn out on one side so I think this could cause some buzzing. I'm going to look into buying a new nut for my bass. But overall the sound has improved greatly mostly thanks to proper set up. Thanks to everyone for all their advice and help. I appreciate it guys.
  #14  
Old 04-15-2007, 09:45 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Gladstone, QLD, Australia
here's a trick, that will help your A-string...

unwind it again...and while you are rewinding with your left hand, push down hard on the string between the nut and the tuner, to help encourage the string to wrap as low as possible on the tuner.

Some bassists put a 2nd string tree on their basses for the A string....because of the factory tree for the G and D strings, and the close proximity of the E string to the nut, the A string is always the most problematic.
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