Help a Newb Replace a Nut...Pics Included..

bobbykokinos · #1 02-25-2010, 04:22 PM

So, I'm bringing my first bass back to life.. Its an old Cort P-Bass. First thing on the list is getting the nut back into shape. I think its been replaced several times and, whoever did the last one, didn't a half-donkey'ed job..It wasnt seated right at all and there was gaps all over. Problem is, looks like its been sanded soo many times to get the old glue off that when you put the nut back on it, the the bottom of the slots are almost to the fret board.

I got the old nut popped off tried to scraped some of the old glue off but didn't get too far. My question is, where do I go from here? Is this a job for a professional? Has it been sanded so far that extra work will need to be done? Any help you guys can give would be appreciated!!

Pics:

__HM__ · #2 02-25-2010, 07:09 PM

I'd sand it out all level, and glue a sliver of maple to the bottom of the now level nut cavity. (Lol, nut cavity.. what's the correct term for it?) Then rock that new nut, and you're good to go.

vbasscustom · #3 02-25-2010, 07:24 PM

nut slot... oh thats not much better actually.

bobbykokinos · #4 02-25-2010, 10:11 PM

Let me ask you guys this: after I spend the money buying what I need to get the job done (files, sanding materials, nut, etc..), would I be at about the same price as just having someone do it for me?

Stealth · #5 02-26-2010, 04:18 AM

While the topic is still on (and having run into trouble with a new nut myself), if the nut is thicker than the slot (along the neck-length dimension), would sanding it to proper width be a better idea, or would it be saner to widen the nut slot?

Jools4001 · #6 02-26-2010, 06:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobbykokinos

Let me ask you guys this: after I spend the money buying what I need to get the job done (files, sanding materials, nut, etc..), would I be at about the same price as just having someone do it for me?

Probably. But you will also learn a lot along the way, which is something you can't put a price on.

Only you can tell whether the price of gaining that experience is worth it to you.

Rickett Customs · #7 02-26-2010, 06:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobbykokinos

Let me ask you guys this: after I spend the money buying what I need to get the job done (files, sanding materials, nut, etc..), would I be at about the same price as just having someone do it for me?

If you're referring to "sanding materials" you're most likely looking at $5 for some sandpaper, lay it flat and take your height from the bottom of the nut. Even if you were to buy a nut blank, that's already slotted, it would be less money than having someone do it for you and by all means is worth the experience of doing it yourself. The nut, pbass and jazz nuts can be found preslotted, if you don't want to buy the files and are not very costly.

bobbykokinos · #8 02-26-2010, 11:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rickett Customs

If you're referring to "sanding materials" you're most likely looking at $5 for some sandpaper, lay it flat and take your height from the bottom of the nut. Even if you were to buy a nut blank, that's already slotted, it would be less money than having someone do it for you and by all means is worth the experience of doing it yourself. The nut, pbass and jazz nuts can be found preslotted, if you don't want to buy the files and are not very costly.

Thanks for the info. I appreciate it!! I'll probably pickup some sanding paper today. Any particular coarseness I should look for? Also, do you have a suggestion on something small I can wrap the paper around to give me a nice straight edge for even sanding?

I'm really excited to get this bass going for some reason. It was given to me about 15-16 years ago when I first started picking up the bass. It has no monetary value but would love to see it working again.

Rickett Customs · #9 02-26-2010, 11:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobbykokinos

Thanks for the info. I appreciate it!! I'll probably pickup some sanding paper today. Any particular coarseness I should look for?

No problem.

You might luck out and find a "combo" pack of different grits of sandpaper, but I wouldn't go much lower than 120 >320 > 400. 400 should be ok for a finish up nut.

blipndub · #10 02-26-2010, 12:02 PM

I've not found anyone to do a nut install for under $50. It's a great skill once you have the pretty modest investment in tools. You should be able to buy a "gibson" style nut that is slotted from your local shop for a few bucks and then just level the slot and see how it fits.

PrivateHigh · #11 02-26-2010, 02:29 PM

Since the nut slot is chopped up, you can fit a warwick just-a-nut3 on that.

bobbykokinos · #12 02-26-2010, 07:47 PM

Would you just fold the sand paper in half and sand using your finger or would you use something to brace the sand paper to get a good 90º angle??

azflyman · #13 02-27-2010, 12:27 AM

Anything fairly square with some length. I use a small square file, it gives me the stiffness needed and the 90 degree corner.

az

mcapote · #14 02-27-2010, 04:41 AM

You could use a cd case as a block, it works pretty well for me and its free.

Greg Clinkingbeard · #15 02-27-2010, 09:24 AM

Bobby,
I would advise using a sharp chisel to clean up the wood. the old nut doesn't look all that bad (if that crack is a danger, fill it with super glue and use it). Use a standard file to clean and true it up. If necessary, use a layer or two of maple veneer and some titebond glue to shim it up and you are good to go. Correct nut slot height is determined by fretting the second fret and the string should be just barely off the first. It may seem to be right on the fret, but when pushing it down you will hear a 'ping'. Hopefully that makes sense.