Help setting up a Geddy Lee

Mikio · #1 12-14-2009, 01:13 PM

Hi. Well, I was trying to get a lower action from my Geddy from the bridge, but I couldn't get as low as I wanted, so I decided I should work on the err.... neck? I mean, the part that you usually fix with an Allen Key, but this bass doesn't have that!!, so I opened up the pickcover and found some kind of regular screw... thought it'd work the same as an Allen, but it only got loose and the neck of the bass didn't move at all!!! so now I unscrewed the whole thing and led me to nowhere

I don't know what to do!!! pelase help!!!

NickInMesa · #2 12-14-2009, 01:19 PM

It is adjusted with a regular flat screwdrive, a solid quality one.

A neck is to be adjusted once in a while depending on weather conditions.

If you start getting fret buzz, loosen.

If you have too much action, tighten.

Adjust the height at the bridge, then re-intonate.

The first setup, you may want to have a pro do it, after that micro-adjustments are required.

Benjamin Strange · #3 12-14-2009, 01:21 PM

Here's the proper way to set up your bass:

1. Get the neck as straight as possible while the strings are tuned to pitch. I think your Geddy has a truss rod access at the heel of the neck, which means you'll have to take the off several times to get it right. Tighten the truss rod to bring the middle of the neck toward the strings, loosen to move the neck away. Don't make drastic changes - usually a quarter to half a turn, then check, and repeat if necessary.

2. Cut your nut down to the proper height. Each string should just barely clear the first fret when fretted at the third.

3. Tweak the truss rod to allow for proper relief in the neck. Start with .008" at the 6th fret when fretted at the 1st and 13.

4. Set your bridge saddle heights, matching the radius of the neck if possible. Set to taste.

5. Intonate.

JTE · #4 12-14-2009, 02:00 PM

To clarify some points.

Do NOT use the truss rod to "lower the strings". Though it's true that tightening the truss rod will bring the strings closer to the neck, lowering the action is NOT the truss rod's function. The truss rod is there to balance the strings' tension to keep the neck's relief where the player wants it. It's only part of setting up your bass.

Proper set-up requires things be done in order and the first thing is to set the neck's relief correctly. Some people like the neck "... as straight as possible" while others want some relief for good reasons. There are trade-offs involved with the amount of relief so it takes some time to determne what works for how YOU play.

Most factory nuts are woefully wrong. Learn how to do it yourself. It'll take some time and huge amounts of patience, but it's well worth it. The reason most factory nuts are wrong is because cutting a nut correctly is time-consuming, and because one pass of the file too many mean you have to start over. So it's economically better to leave them too high than to invest in expensive hand-labor to cut each one right.

After the neck's relief is set and you have the nut right, THEN you adjust the action by using the saddles' heigth adjustments.

When you have the action where you want it, then set the intonation.

Note that all of this assumes that the frets are already in good shape and the neck/body angle is correct.

With a Fender-style neck that adjusts at the neck heel, you may have to remove the neck to adjust the truss rod, but not always. When I managed a store I only had to take off about two thirds of the necks I worked on. On my Fender VS '62 P bass I can get to the truss rod nut without taking off the pickguard at all, same on my Geddy Lee I had. My Sting and my Classic Series Stratocaster require that I take off the pickguard, but not the neck. It depends on the individual instrument and where the neck sits in the pocket.

I highy recommend Dan Erlewine's books on guitar set-up and repair because he goes into a lot of detail about the trade-offs in using a perfectly straight neck versus some releif, etc. They are also about the best thing I've seen in 30+ years of playing and working on instruments for SHOWING and explaining things. The graphics are very clear and easy to understand. He uses photos, line drawings, etc. whichever gets the information across best. Plus he has some sections dedicated specifically to electric bass in his "Complete Guitar Player Repair Guide".

John

Mikio · #5 12-14-2009, 02:57 PM

Thanks a lot, everyone.

It helped a lot, now my bass is finally in good shape!

still there's a fret with problems, but that must be fixed by a pro I guess

thanks again, thanks a lot! TB rocks x)

NickInMesa · #6 12-14-2009, 03:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mikio

Thanks a lot, everyone.

It helped a lot, now my bass is finally in good shape!

still there's a fret with problems, but that must be fixed by a pro I guess

thanks again, thanks a lot! TB rocks x)

Fret problem? how old is this bass?

RFord04 · #7 12-14-2009, 03:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Benjamin Strange

Here's the proper way to set up your bass:

1. Get the neck as straight as possible while the strings are tuned to pitch. I think your Geddy has a truss rod access at the heel of the neck, which means you'll have to take the off several times to get it right. Tighten the truss rod to bring the middle of the neck toward the strings, loosen to move the neck away. Don't make drastic changes - usually a quarter to half a turn, then check, and repeat if necessary.

I would start with 1/8 turns, never more than a quarter turn in a day. Wood takes time to bend and must be done gradually.

Mikio · #8 12-14-2009, 06:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NickInMesa

Fret problem? how old is this bass?

It's kinda new, though I don't have the warranty anymore...

But the 16 fret of the D string always buzzes, ALWAYS and I can't fix it =\

NickInMesa · #9 12-15-2009, 01:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mikio

It's kinda new, though I don't have the warranty anymore...

But the 16 fret of the D string always buzzes, ALWAYS and I can't fix it =\

You buzz when you play the 16th fret or you know the buzz comes from this fret when you play a lower note?

Mikio · #10 12-18-2009, 01:32 PM

Only while playing the 16th fret

Benjamin Strange · #11 12-18-2009, 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mikio

Only while playing the 16th fret

You've got some uneven frets. Have a fret level done.

NickInMesa · #12 12-18-2009, 08:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Benjamin Strange

You've got some uneven frets. Have a fret level done.

That or he has a ski ramp, which can be saved by doing a partial refret after sanding the fretboard.

MIJ/CIJ necks vary between good and awesome.

Mikio · #13 12-23-2009, 06:36 AM

Crap. Fender can't be 100% perfect, after all

thanks, I'll have it checked

muaddib96 · #14 01-26-2010, 04:06 PM

I'm new to bass playing. I've been playing some guitar on a fender newporter guitar. I always liked the look of the fender Geddy Lee jazz bass, and decided to pull the trigger on one that was on eBay a few months back. I scored the bass, hardshell case, and delivery for $505. I think I got a very good deal.

The bass came with Rotosound Steve Harris 110 E flatwound strings. I'm not fond of these strings, having played a P bass the had Ernie Ball round wound 105 E strings, which I like much better. For me, the flat wound strings are 'slippery' if that makes any sense.

The set up on the strings is off in my opinion. The string height is too high. It has a badass bridge. I am no expert on setup. I'd like to get rid of the Flat wounds, substitute EB 105 E roundwounds, and lower my string height.

The truss rod adjustment is at the pick up end, and after taking off the pickguard, it appears that I might have to take the neck off to adjust the truss rod. The bridge also needs some fine tuning.

Like I said. I'm a beginner. JTE had some great insight. Is this a project I can tackle, or should a beginner head for the nearest music shop?

Great forum. Glad to be a new member.

Cheers.