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  #1  
Old 12-24-2008, 02:33 PM
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Hipshot bridge help

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I installed a type A bridge on my MIM Jazz yesterday and now it seems when I pluck (it happens mostly on the E string) I get a bad clanking noise from the saddle. What did I do wrong or what needs to be adjusted? I haven't touched anything on it since installing it seeing that the string height is practically dead-on from where it was with the stock Fender bridge.

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Last edited by gtxtom : 12-24-2008 at 02:45 PM.
  #2  
Old 12-24-2008, 02:43 PM
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a thought

With 3 screws per saddle, are they all touching the bridge underneath? If not yu might be picking up a little rattle. Just a thought anyways.

Mark
  #3  
Old 12-24-2008, 03:15 PM
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It looks uneven; 'A' side seems higher. Tried levelling it?
  #4  
Old 12-24-2008, 10:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markkoelsch View Post
With 3 screws per saddle, are they all touching the bridge underneath? If not yu might be picking up a little rattle. Just a thought anyways.

Mark
The third screw secures the position of the saddle barrel for adjustable string spacing, but it could still be the problem if it's loose.

Every time I've had a mysterious rattle at the bridge, it's turned out to be a loose allen screw. You should be able to set the screws with enough pressure to keep them still, without noticeably changing the string height.

Your saddles look a little far forward to me, BTW. Maybe the intonation screw has backed out, too? I'm not sure how long they are.
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  #5  
Old 12-25-2008, 03:38 AM
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Could be any of the screws intonation too now that its been mentioned. But most likely that one of the saddle screws arent even with the others.
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  #6  
Old 12-25-2008, 09:18 AM
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The saddles must be square / level within their individual channels. Make sure the two hex screws are making firm contact with base below. Have you set your intonation yet? Maybe its a perceptual thing but the saddles appear to be waaaay too far forward and, yes, the intonation screws will disengage at that point.

Riis
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  #7  
Old 12-27-2008, 08:33 PM
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Thanks for the info guys. I seemed to have gotten rid of most of my rattle. Does anyone have a good link for setting the intonation?
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  #8  
Old 12-27-2008, 08:47 PM
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As mentioned previously, the saddles MUST be level. Up & Down adjustments (the two front screws on each saddle) affect string height. The third screw adjusts each string side-to-side to line up with the p/u pole pieces.

Here's a link to Fender:
http://www.fender.com/support/basses.php

Do the adjustments (as needed) in the order listed.
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  #9  
Old 12-27-2008, 09:47 PM
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Awesome. Thanks. I appreciate it!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zooberwerx View Post
The saddles must be square / level within their individual channels. Make sure the two hex screws are making firm contact with base below. Have you set your intonation yet? Maybe its a perceptual thing but the saddles appear to be waaaay too far forward and, yes, the intonation screws will disengage at that point.

Riis
The bridge was set quite well from the factory .... for a right-handed bass! hah I need to do a 180 with the saddles' length.
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Last edited by gtxtom : 12-27-2008 at 11:50 PM.
  #10  
Old 12-28-2008, 05:25 AM
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Hello, I have just bought two of these exact bridges and have experienced a similar clanking sound when playing relatively hard finger style around the bridge area.

In my opinion it is because the channels for the saddles have been cut a little too big for the saddles they receive, therefore allowing them to rattle a little when the string is plucked hard.

My solution was to add small shims of sticky paper each side of the saddles (small enough to be invisible from above the walls of the channels) in order to fill out the space either side of them. I found it necessary to add as much as 5 layers of paper in order to achieve his!

It's a bad design fault in my opinion. With ABM bridges it's possible to lock the saddles against the channel walls with a grub screw, but this bridge doesn't offer this level of lockability.

Another option could be to shim the neck a little creating a steeper break angle of each string over the saddles, thus 'clamping' the saddles down harder-which may minimise their tendency to rock about a bit.

Hope this helps....
  #11  
Old 12-28-2008, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HalfManHalfBass View Post
Hello, I have just bought two of these exact bridges and have experienced a similar clanking sound when playing relatively hard finger style around the bridge area.

In my opinion it is because the channels for the saddles have been cut a little too big for the saddles they receive, therefore allowing them to rattle a little when the string is plucked hard.

My solution was to add small shims of sticky paper each side of the saddles (small enough to be invisible from above the walls of the channels) in order to fill out the space either side of them. I found it necessary to add as much as 5 layers of paper in order to achieve his!

It's a bad design fault in my opinion. With ABM bridges it's possible to lock the saddles against the channel walls with a grub screw, but this bridge doesn't offer this level of lockability.

Another option could be to shim the neck a little creating a steeper break angle of each string over the saddles, thus 'clamping' the saddles down harder-which may minimise their tendency to rock about a bit.

Hope this helps....
I've never had this problem with any of the Hipshot bridges. How 'bout the rest of you TBers? For that fact, the saddle-to-channel tolerance is so tight that I can only get one sheet of note paper betweenst one side on the assembly. Any tighter and the saddles probably wouldn't move back 'n forth for intonation. Also add in the ~40 lbs of pressure exerted by each string. I'm perplexed as to how the saddle could move enough to create the "clanging" you've described. Do you have pics of the paper-shim modification?

I do like the lockdown feature on the ABM bridges. I have them on my Cirri and Status. I miss the intonation screw but I've gotten fairly adept at moving them with my fingertips. When they're really stubborn, I tap them into place with a chopstick (dowel) and hobby mallet.

Riis
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  #12  
Old 12-28-2008, 10:16 AM
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Ok here's 2 pictures I snapped real quick. First is me pulling the E string down and second is pulling it up.



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  #13  
Old 12-28-2008, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by gtxtom View Post
Ok here's 2 pictures I snapped real quick. First is me pulling the E string down and second is pulling it up.






I'm of the suspicion that the saddles are not moving side-to-side within the channel. Rather, I think the string itself (when plucked with ferocity) may be striking the inside wall of the saddle body. Granted, I know its only a hunch but your roller saddles are locked in waaaay to the right. The A string looks to be the worst. Here's a quick 'n easy way to tell: loosen the 3rd grub screw on each saddle and center each string / roller. Pole-piece and string spacing be damned; don't worry about it for now. Retighten the grub screw, tune, and have at it. Any better?

Riis
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  #14  
Old 12-28-2008, 10:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zooberwerx View Post
I think the string itself (when plucked with ferocity) may be striking the inside wall of the saddle body. Granted, I know its only a hunch but your roller saddles are locked in waaaay to the right.
Sounds logical to me.
  #15  
Old 12-28-2008, 11:24 AM
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Alright. I'll try that soon and report back.
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  #16  
Old 12-28-2008, 12:57 PM
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Gtxtom, from seeing you pictures I can clearly see a space between the saddles and the channel walls. I'm still of the opinion that you have the same issue as I with regards to this partiular model of bridge.

Detune either your E or A string till it's very floppy. Then rock the same string's saddle to either side and listen for a click as it hits the sides of the channel walls, if it does, you will need to shim it like I have done (as I can't think of any other way to build up the mass and free space....).
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