hollowbody dead E-string problem fixed

[bearfoot]

Here was the problem: A hollowbody bass, Turser JTB-134, with nice tone but mysteriously lacking fundamentals on the lowest notes of the E string, most pronounced from low G on down.
After trying a few different strings and wondering about the nut, I discovered the problem: the tailpeice ~ the slots in the tailpeice were all one size, and the E string was pinched as it entered the slot. I never thought that last 1/4" of string could be so important.
So, some drilling/reaming of the tailpeice slot, and now the E has clearance and sounds like it should.

[clarifixer]

Originally Posted by bearfoot

Here was the problem: A hollowbody bass, Turser JTB-134, with nice tone but mysteriously lacking fundamentals on the lowest notes of the E string, most pronounced from low G on down.
After trying a few different strings and wondering about the nut, I discovered the problem: the tailpeice ~ the slots in the tailpeice were all one size, and the E string was pinched as it entered the slot. I never thought that last 1/4" of string could be so important.
So, some drilling/reaming of the tailpeice slot, and now the E has clearance and sounds like it should.

Has anyone else had similar success with this instrument? It sounds very promising since this is one of the only negatives I've read about it. Neck dive, yeah, but that's not an inherent acoustical/electrical problem. I'm just a sucker for that natural finish curly maple top on the JTB-134. At under $300, it's seemingly a steal.

Any other criticisms on this axe?

I also play a Jay Turser hollowbody and my E and D string slots are too small. How do I go about drilling/reaming the bridge slots? Is this something I shouldn't try on my own if I've never done it?



Short review:

The JTB-134 is a great value. I have a short-scale hollowbody with a natural finish, gold hardware, and volume, tone, and pickup selector controls. I get a lot of compliments on both looks and sound and everyone who asks is surprised to find out I paid less than two hundred bucks for it new.

It's thumpy and less defined than a typical solid instrument but its tone is very woody and musical and it stays that way into the upper register. The instrument has powerful lows, smooth midrange, and subtle, not brilliant, highs. For those of you who like the vintage hollowbody sound, this guitar nails it.

So far, I've encountered two minor issues: first, the slots in the bridge aren't wide enough to accomodate the ball ends of my strings and the last bit of the string also gets pinched in there, causing some woofiness and wavering pitches on the lower notes on the E string. Strangely, this isn't much of a problem on the D string although the ball end sticks out there, too. No one has noticed the slight loss of tone but me, however. Second, the electronics don't feel solid. They've never failed me but one of my volume knobs turns a bit past the maximum position and seems like it might fall apart. Similarly, my pickup selector switch buzzes on occasion from the vibration of the instrument.

I've used this bass in theatre pit bands, jazz groups, and a rock band with great success. It's a dependable, modestly priced instrument with a deep, full sound.

[GlennW]

Do those basses have kerfling (sp) strips glued where the sides meet the top and back?

Originally Posted by GlennW

Do those basses have kerfling (sp) strips glued where the sides meet the top and back?

Mine does not but it is an older model.

Does anyone know about widening bridge slots?