Hoping I don't get shunned for this... but I need help with a guitar rebuild...

[ogcaleb]

If this is against the rules, then delete it immediately. This is my first attempt wiring/mounting anything so i have a couple issues.

I'm restoring a 70's epiphone crestwood. everything on it hardware wise was bust, so i'm replacing everything.

my issue is with the pickups. I bought Gibson 57 and 57+ for it. The humbucker cover is the same depth, but the tabs for the mounting screws are a good .25-.30 inches longer, so it's hitting the bottom. Here's the old pickup next to the new one.



Also. The six screws in the old pickup were flush with the bottom of the pickup cover. In the new pickups, it extends an extra 0.3 inches. This means it interferes with the actual neck in the neck position





It's like half a mm too deep. So because of the screws, in the front rout should i cut the end of the screws off? rout a small strip for the screws to slide into? i physically have to cut into the neck for that to happen and i'm worried about resonance.

I paid $20 for the guitar and got a sweetheart deal on the pickups. Should i just give up and sell off all the hardware?

[202dy]

Originally Posted by ogcaleb

If this is against the rules, then delete it immediately. This is my first attempt wiring/mounting anything so i have a couple issues.

I'm restoring a 70's epiphone crestwood. everything on it hardware wise was bust, so i'm replacing everything.

my issue is with the pickups. I bought Gibson 57 and 57+ for it. The humbucker cover is the same depth, but the tabs for the mounting screws are a good .25-.30 inches longer, so it's hitting the bottom. Here's the old pickup next to the new one.


Also. The six screws in the old pickup were flush with the bottom of the pickup cover. In the new pickups, it extends an extra 0.3 inches. This means it interferes with the actual neck in the neck position


It's like half a mm too deep. So because of the screws, in the front rout should i cut the end of the screws off? rout a small strip for the screws to slide into? i physically have to cut into the neck for that to happen and i'm worried about resonance.

I paid $20 for the guitar and got a sweetheart deal on the pickups. Should i just give up and sell off all the hardware?

Nothing wrong with the question. Truth is that the average tech will see ten to twenty guitars cross the bench to every bass.

The simple answer is to cut the screws. Find a couple of nuts that fit the screw threads. Mark the cut length and thread the nuts on before cutting. When the nuts are removed it will chase the threads damaged by cutting.

Routing out a little bit of lumber on either side of the neck will not affect the resonance enough to be heard in the mix. Routing out the neck extension in the body is not recommended.

Every other solution involves power tools.

[walterw]

there are even arguments that cutting those pickup screws improves the tone due to the magnetic field not being diverted so far out the bottom of the pickup.

[bassbenj]

Originally Posted by walterw

there are even arguments that cutting those pickup screws improves the tone due to the magnetic field not being diverted so far out the bottom of the pickup.

Exactly. I urge you to go purchase a cheap Chinese copy of a Dremel tool if you don't have one. They are cheap and often come with a set of various cutters, sanders and buffers that are all VERY handy for guitar work.

Cut the screws. What you want to cut them with is the Dremel cutting wheels. This is a little thin emery disk usually less than an inch in diameter. They often come in rotary tool kits or you can buy them at any store stocking Dremel stuff. They are for cutting metal by simply grinding through it. The advantage of this is that the cutting operation leaves very few burs and chews the way a hack saw will. Little more clean up will be needed.

By the way TAPE the pickup BEFORE cutting the screws or take them out to cut them (in which case the cutting wheel is better because you won't chew them up and can put them back in without having to file the ends smooth.) The magnets in the pickup will attract all the metal dust and chips and you'll have hell to pay getting it off if you don't cover it with tape first. Using the cutting wheel will heat the screws. So take your time and don't overheat them.

And then (assuming the guitar body is thick enough (MEASURE IT!)) you can also use the rotary tool with some kind of cutter tool to dig out the wood under the mounting ears a bit so those clear too. I had to do some SERIOUS wood digging on a strat I picked up for a song to get all the pickup mounting screws to clear. Worked out just fine.

Hey, no problem coming here. Aren't all bass players failed guitar players? I know I am.

[202dy]

It is not a good idea to remove material from the tongue of the neck, the part that is standing proud in the pickup cavity. Look at the neck joint. The mating surfaces between the neck and the pocket are not very large. There is no mechanical advantage to the joint itself so it relies on the strength of the glue. The strength of the wood is dependent on thickness. Routing or removing material compromises the strength of the joint. This is an inherent weakness of this particular design, and many failures have occurred after modification.

If you choose to use a power tool like a Dremel to cut the screws there a couple of things to keep in mind. Whenever possible, parts should be disassembled before they are modified. Take the screws out of the pickup. Chuck them up in a vise or a pair of vise grips. Make the modification. Chase the threads. Reassemble.

Another reason to remove the screws before performing the work: AC coils demagnetize permanent magnets. There is an AC coil (motor) powering the Dremel. The magnets in pickups are permanent magnets. Unless the goal is to weaken the pickups, keep the tool away from the pickup.

Always buy quality tools. The cheap tool is purchased twice. Once, and used until it breaks or gives poor service, and a second time when the replacement is purchased. Add the cost of the original purchase to the cost of a quality tool to find the final cost of the tool.

"The bitterness of poor quality lingers long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten."

John Ruskin