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02-28-2008, 10:07 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Baltimore | | | How to correctly file down a nut?
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I have a 4 string yamaha cheapo that I want to tune to BEAD. I have a set of DR Low riders that I want to throw on there(B is .125 gauge). So I need to file down the nut to fit the larger strings. What tools do I need and is there a correct procedure for doing this? | 
02-28-2008, 01:59 PM
|  | THIS HAND OF MINE GLOWS WITH AN AWESOME POWER! | | Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: USA; Mitchellville, Maryland | | Quote:
Originally Posted by kmk42019 I have a 4 string yamaha cheapo that I want to tune to BEAD. I have a set of DR Low riders that I want to throw on there(B is .125 gauge). So I need to file down the nut to fit the larger strings. What tools do I need and is there a correct procedure for doing this? | measure the diameter of the B string you want to put on and then use a circular file that comes close to that diameter to basically "drill" a wider space for the string.
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02-28-2008, 02:02 PM
|  | Quatre-cordes | | Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: New Orleans, LA /El Paso TX | | | sometimes the string itself would fit in the groove, and just ramming it back and forth makes a good enough slot. You may still need needle files though, do you have a hardbor freight by you? | 
02-28-2008, 05:51 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Baltimore | | | Do files come in different gauge sizes or are they in inches? I need a file for gauge .125 | 
02-28-2008, 07:25 PM
| | Registered User Owner: Buzzard's Bass Shop | | Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Bradenton, Florida | | Quote:
Originally Posted by kmk42019 Do files come in different gauge sizes or are they in inches? I need a file for gauge .125 | Warmouth has a SET for $70
I haven't found a place that sells them seperate. http://www.warmoth.com/supplies/supp...seaction=files | 
02-28-2008, 07:44 PM
| | | Stewart MacDonald Guitar Shop Supply. Nut files. | 
02-28-2008, 07:55 PM
| | | | I bought a set of Norman Nut Files on Ebay that work really well, and are pretty much foolproof. | 
02-28-2008, 10:58 PM
|  | Less barking, more wagging! | | Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: San Diego, CA | | | Three Alternatives 1. Look for an appropriately-sized chainsaw sharpening file - they're round, coarse enough to cut quickly, and reasonably priced.
2. You can also wrap a piece of abrasive around a shaped stick, drill bit, or bass string and use it to widen, or deepen, a nut slot; remember to take into account the combined thickness of the stick/drill bit/string and the abrasive.
3. If your nut is bone or plastic, you can use a #11-sweep carving gouge, but they're relatively expensive and a little tricky to use unless you're already a carver.
Good luck! | 
02-29-2008, 09:14 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Fort Collins, Colorado | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Jazzdogg
You can also wrap a piece of abrasive around a shaped stick, drill bit, or bass string and use it to widen, or deepen, a nut slot; remember to take into account the combined thickness of the stick/drill bit/string and the abrasive.
| DING DING DING!!!! Winner! Great suggestion, and the price is right. | 
02-29-2008, 11:25 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Baltimore | | | What kind of abrasive? sandpaper? | 
02-29-2008, 01:43 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Fort Collins, Colorado | | | I'd think that some 800 to 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper (grey in color) would be about right - wouldn't cut too fast. | 
02-29-2008, 08:07 PM
|  | Less barking, more wagging! | | Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: San Diego, CA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Pilgrim I'd think that some 800 to 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper (grey in color) would be about right - wouldn't cut too fast. | IME, 800-1000 would be very slow sledding; I'd prefer to use something between 120- and 220-grit. I'd probably use a stearated, open-coat, aluminum oxide (because it doesn't "load up" quickly). | 
03-01-2008, 08:01 AM
| | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Jazzdogg IME, 800-1000 would be very slow sledding; I'd prefer to use something between 120- and 220-grit. I'd probably use a stearated, open-coat, aluminum oxide (because it doesn't "load up" quickly). | Polishing starts with 600 grit. It's not a good choice for cutting.
Cutting a nut with 120 is overkill. If not handled gently it can snag a softer material like Corian and chip or crack it. 220 is a decent choice.
A small tapered rat tail file is a better choice for roughing in.
Nut files are the best choice for cutting the string seats in a nut. | 
05-10-2008, 09:11 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Singapore | | | I think the nut on my bass is too high. Should I file it down or just get a new one?
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05-12-2008, 07:56 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Fort Worth, Texas | | | If it's not too late, I seem to recall that a properly shaped nut groove has a slant to it providing a witness point right before the fretboard starts. | 
05-12-2008, 10:06 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Fort Collins, Colorado | | Quote:
Originally Posted by 202dy Polishing starts with 600 grit. It's not a good choice for cutting.
Cutting a nut with 120 is overkill. If not handled gently it can snag a softer material like Corian and chip or crack it. 220 is a decent choice.
A small tapered rat tail file is a better choice for roughing in.
Nut files are the best choice for cutting the string seats in a nut. | EXCELLENT recommendations! added to my knowledge base - thanks.
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