How do I clean a fretboard?

JDHolmes · #1 01-27-2010, 07:36 AM

I searched but was unsuccessful.

I just bought (off ebay) an Ibanez 300 DX. Pictures were not very good or I probably would have passed if I knew the true condition of this bass. However, it's mine now...caveat emptor.

The frets are green from brass/moisture reaction. I need to clean them without damaging the fretboard. Can you make some suggestions on the best means of doing so. Also, the screws for the pickups, bridge, and adjusters are rusty. It's probably easiest to just replace the bridge, but I'd like to know the screw sizes and any suggestions you have or things to avoid when changing out screws in our basses.

This is going to be my first mod on a bass so I want to avoid making a mistake. I own an auto restoration business so I understand the normal reasonable car that needs to be taken with this type of thing, but I'm certain there are specifics for bass work/wood work that i'm unfamiliar with.

Many thanks in advance.

**Bryan R. Tyler** · #2 01-27-2010, 07:42 AM

Do a title search that has the words "clean" or "cleaning" and "fretboard" in it, and there are a number of results.

mikeyswood · #3 01-27-2010, 07:42 AM

Put it in the washing machine

okcrum · #4 01-27-2010, 07:46 AM

0000 steel wool should do for the frets, and you can use it to clean up the fingerboard too. Might as well rub a bit of oil into the fingerboard while you've got access to it, just make sure it's lemon or other light oil and not an oil finish unless you want it to harden and seal the board. I just cleaned up a '65 Hag II B, and my wire and buffing wheels came in real handy for the tarnished screw heads and other metal parts.

Thunderitter · #5 01-27-2010, 07:48 AM

This should be in the repair/maintenance section, which is why a search here probably failed!

Easiest way to clean your frets is with a little 0000 steel wool. You want to use masking tape on either side of the fret to protect the fretboard or you can buy fretboard guards or a mask from somewhere like StewMac to make things quicker. You'll be amazed at how good the frets will looks after a half a dozen or so firm rubs with the steel wool!

As for the screws, you might be able to clean them and not replace them. It's going to depend on the type of bridge how readily available the screws and parts are, but in your line of work you should have access to a lot of potential parts that will do the job! Obviously the thing to look out for is that the tolerance on something like a guitar bridge are a lot finer than a car and you usually have to be exact with diameter and length and not just close!

When you stripping a bridge make sure you take a note of where everything came from! I usually take some photos for a reference. Once you've got the screws out you can give them a bath in some solvent - if your in the auto restoration business you'll have the right stuff around. I've used denatured alcohol in the past with success. You can use a wire brush before and after to loosen and then remove any stubborn rust. You can then use a little spray paint to make them look nice if you can't (or don't want) to do the outright replacement.

JDHolmes · #6 01-27-2010, 08:02 AM

Thanks! I've got a grasp on it now. And Mikeyswood, let me know how your cleaning comes out!

Blake Bass · #7 01-27-2010, 08:08 AM

keep the steel wool away from the pick ups. The magnets will attract those little pieces of steel..

mikeyswood · #8 01-27-2010, 08:10 AM

It works well for me. Word to the wise: let it air dry. I didn't and now I have another g*itar

**251** · #9 01-27-2010, 08:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JDHolmes

I searched but was unsuccessful.

I just bought (off ebay) an Ibanez 300 DX. Pictures were not very good or I probably would have passed if I knew the true condition of this bass. However, it's mine now...caveat emptor.

The frets are green from brass/moisture reaction. I need to clean them without damaging the fretboard. Can you make some suggestions on the best means of doing so. Also, the screws for the pickups, bridge, and adjusters are rusty. It's probably easiest to just replace the bridge, but I'd like to know the screw sizes and any suggestions you have or things to avoid when changing out screws in our basses.

This is going to be my first mod on a bass so I want to avoid making a mistake. I own an auto restoration business so I understand the normal reasonable car that needs to be taken with this type of thing, but I'm certain there are specifics for bass work/wood work that i'm unfamiliar with.

Many thanks in advance.

Flitz is the best brass cleaner I've ever used. You need to tape the frets & the neck or the Flitz will stain the wood. A tiny bit of Flitz does a lot of cleaning.

Consider nail polish or auto touch up paint, I like black, to refurb the rusty screw heads.

Steel wool works well, too. Fair warning, steel wool dust will collect on the pick ups. The sticky side of the tape is good for removing the metal dust that collects on the magnets. You won't have to deal with magnets if you can find some brass wool (Marine Supply?)

Chasarms · #10 01-27-2010, 08:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blake Bass

keep the steel wool away from the pick ups. The magnets will attract those little pieces of steel..

It is a simple and wise precaution to slap a piece of masting tape over the PUs before you start in with the steel wool.

As for the oiling the FB comment:

If it is darkwood fb, like rosewood, it is unfinished and oil won't hurt, but don't oil maple.

jimbilly · #11 01-27-2010, 11:45 PM

Since you're in the automotive biz; I use Griots Garage Fine Hand polish for frets all the time, I don't mask off the fretboard and it does a fair job of cleaning the fretboard as well. I REALLY gets the frets shiny, I just put a dab on a 2"x2" square of cotton, it takes all of 10 minutes. Wipe it clean with a dry cloth, and follow up with another cloth dampened with light mineral oil and youll be all set. Steel wool is too messy, it gets everywhere.

Oh, and if you can get the bridge parts to move freely, you'll be just fine, no replacement necessary. Just put a little penetrating oil on all the exposed threads and forget about them for a while. If the parts are rusted stuck, some heat can do wonders. I had a '70s Fender Mustang with some badly stuck saddle screws a few months ago, I ended up holding the saddle in vice grips and pointed a propane torch at it for a 30 seconds or so, - rust doesn't hold up well to heat. You'll have to remove the bridge before adding heat to anything that won't come off the bridge, but be shure to stop short of stripping or breaking the screws by force, there's other methods of getting stuck parts free, and a new bridge would not be a good investment. You probably know this from working on cars, but you other guys might be amazed at what even a cigarette lighter will help break free (rusted stuck small parts).