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  #1  
Old 01-30-2011, 01:37 PM
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How do I get a glued nut off?

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I need to get the nut off my Squire but it's glued in pretty good.

Help?
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  #2  
Old 01-30-2011, 01:38 PM
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heatgun?
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  #3  
Old 01-30-2011, 01:49 PM
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Yo 11, Check this out from StewMac;
http://www.stewmac.com/freeinfo/Nuts...xst=3&xsr=2403
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  #4  
Old 01-30-2011, 02:06 PM
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I use a boxcutter (mask the sides first) to crack the sides of the glue. Once you've done that, striking the nut with a mallet or some dull object should loosen it right up.
  #5  
Old 01-30-2011, 02:11 PM
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how to get if off is easy not damaging the neck is hard. hammer works great. get some glue remover from a hardware store (used to remove industrial glue when an idiot glues their fingers together) it takes a few hours but u could just slide the nut off.

this website i get a lot of my stuff from http://www.grizzly.com/home.aspx also check out the instrument cables

Last edited by Thaos627 : 01-30-2011 at 02:14 PM. Reason: adding link
  #6  
Old 01-30-2011, 10:23 PM
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HI.

on a thread like this, I'd say correct spelling is everything. I would think a sharp knife would cut 'em (both if so desired) right off, but You'd have to be quick.

As for the nut removal from a FB, a sharp blow with a hammer does the trick. Takes a bit of learning how to strike and where, but IME that's the best way.

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Sam
  #7  
Old 01-30-2011, 10:29 PM
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He wants to get his nut off...don't we all.

Forgive me.
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  #8  
Old 01-30-2011, 10:31 PM
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Go see a doctor!
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  #9  
Old 01-30-2011, 10:50 PM
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He wants to get his nut off...don't we all.

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  #10  
Old 01-31-2011, 08:39 AM
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+1 on the mallet method.
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  #11  
Old 02-12-2011, 01:21 AM
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Hands down best method (IMHO), score the edges of the nut, lightly tap it with a hammer to loosen it a very little bit, drop acetone along the fingerboard side with a toothpick, let it settle, tap a few more times, repeat the acetone, then tap it and pull it out. I can't tell you how many times I've broken the ridge on the headstock side of a fender style nut just by tapping it. Cutting it takes too long and makes a mess. This way works almost every time with no damage to the guitar. Just keep the acetone away from all things plastic!
  #12  
Old 02-12-2011, 08:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bassist11 View Post
I need to get the nut off my Squire but it's glued in pretty good.

Help?
A Fender-type nut, 1/8" thick, needs to be scored on both ends, to keep wood/finish tearout to a minimum. Then it is tapped out from one side, using something *slightly* smaller than 1/8", and a lightweight hammer. That's how I do it, anyway, and never have any problems doing so.
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  #13  
Old 02-12-2011, 09:01 AM
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How about going to a Hobby Shop and buying some Debonder?

Like this;

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCX60&P=0

Aren't most nuts secured with CA (Cyanoacrylate) anyway?



God Bless, Ray
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  #14  
Old 02-12-2011, 10:34 AM
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By all means be very careful what you are doing. Don't smoke any meth beforehand, or else it might end up looking like this trainwreck of a nut removal recently committed against my favorite bass. If you're having a "luthier" do it definitely look at their work to assess if they are truly luthiers or just delusional tweakers with a garage full of tools.

Those chisel marks are the icing on the cake, no wait I think the divot he broke off the fingerboard just below the nut is the icing on the cake. Or maybe the hammer dent just below the low string side of the nut. . . Or is it the sheared off chip of rosewood where the fingerboard was contoured into the headstock with such attention to detail by the craftsmen wizards at fender japan?

Just be careful man, if you love your bass be careful.
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  #15  
Old 02-12-2011, 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by pyroponic View Post
By all means be very careful what you are doing. Don't smoke any meth beforehand, or else it might end up looking like this trainwreck of a nut removal recently committed against my favorite bass. If you're having a "luthier" do it definitely look at their work to assess if they are truly luthiers or just delusional tweakers with a garage full of tools.

Those chisel marks are the icing on the cake, no wait I think the divot he broke off the fingerboard just below the nut is the icing on the cake. Or maybe the hammer dent just below the low string side of the nut. . . Or is it the sheared off chip of rosewood where the fingerboard was contoured into the headstock with such attention to detail by the craftsmen wizards at fender japan?


Just be careful man, if you love your bass be careful.
You didn't pay for this, did you?
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  #16  
Old 02-12-2011, 01:25 PM
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Well this is old.. but how about I just follow up.

I scored the edges with a sharp knife and then took a hammer and started tapping it from the fretboard and headstock side. Just a few taps one side, few taps on the other side, etc. Didn't take long and the nut came loose and I just pushed it out the side.

Quick, clean, easy, and no chemicals involved.
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  #17  
Old 02-12-2011, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JLS View Post
A Fender-type nut, 1/8" thick, needs to be scored on both ends, to keep wood/finish tearout to a minimum. Then it is tapped out from one side, using something *slightly* smaller than 1/8", and a lightweight hammer. That's how I do it, anyway, and never have any problems doing so.
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Old 02-12-2011, 01:38 PM
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I want to call you a couple of children, but I went there pretty much the moment I saw the name of the thread. So I guess that we're all children.
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  #19  
Old 02-15-2011, 05:55 AM
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I want to call you a couple of children, but I went there pretty much the moment I saw the name of the thread. So I guess that we're all children.
And just a few threads down someone's got knob lock Knob locks?
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