Mine is easy to turn and its under tension. The resistance will always raise as you tighten because you increase the force being exerted in the neck.
It is not cheap. If the threads are clear and the nut can turn it will not "pop" unless you have no skills. If it won't turn, stop remove it and figure out why, maybe you need a spacer. Maybe you need to chase and lube the threads. If it is corroded on, that is an environmental issue not a quality issue.
It's not like you can't break a rod on a Warwick because it costs ten times as much. Any truss rod can be consumable if you have questionable mechanical ability. (Don't dare go near a motorcycle with a wrench!) a mechanical mind will know that you bend the neck by hand when tightening more than a tweak to remove the strain from the threads, no matter who made the instrument.
Furthermore you'll notice that an Allen style nut has a dead end in it. Once you tighten it far enough the rod dead ends against it. Time for a spacer. Standard rods are mild steel, nothing more and work just fine for decades if you have a grip on what your are doing.
'73-4 Ampeg V4B, Ampeg PF350,PF115HE, PF115LF, 115 Traynor, 1962 Fender Jazz, 75 Gibson G3, '10 Squier VM Jazz, Squier CV 60's P Sonic, Squier CV 50's P blonde, Epiphone Thunderbird IV
Last edited by 96tbird : 09-02-2013 at 11:02 AM.