How many turns is too much

[DavePlaysBass]

I just picked up a used bass. The neck had a massive forward bow. After nearly 3 full turns (done a little at a time over three days) of the truss rod and changing the strings from 50-105 flats to 45-100 XL nickel rounds, I have reasonable relief in the neck.

Should I be worried about the long term state of the neck? Should I have loosened the nut completely and clamped the neck into position rather than doing 3 full turns? I am of the opinion that going back to heavy flats may not be good for this neck given I may not have much left on the trussrod for adjustment. It is a chunky P style maple neck. Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks,

Dave

[Vorago]

I've always learned that it's better to turn half a turn max for truss rod adjustment, but I'll leave this to the experts.

[DavePlaysBass]

Originally Posted by Vorago

I've always learned that it's better to turn half a turn max for truss rod adjustment, but I'll leave this to the experts.

I have heard this too in the context of 1/2 turn max at a time. Which is what I did over the course of 3 days. I actually was turning the rod 1/4 turn at a time. Retuning strings. Capoing 1st fret. Pressing 21st fret. Measuring space at ninth fret with a feel gauge. Trying to get the relief at the ninth fret to be in the area of 0.012". The neck started off way more than 0.030". I should have measured it.

I should also mention I apply pressure on the neck that is pushing it in a back bow manner to help the truss rod when tightening.

Dave

[tappingtrance]

sounds like you did every thing correctly - at this point I would take it to a luthier/repair guy just to verify it is at the point it should be and what the long term prognosis is.

[bigd4207]

Originally Posted by DavePlaysBass

I have heard this too in the context of 1/2 turn max at a time. Which is what I did over the course of 3 days. I actually was turning the rod 1/4 turn at a time. Retuning strings. Capoing 1st fret. Pressing 21st fret. Measuring space at ninth fret with a feel gauge. Trying to get the relief at the ninth fret to be in the area of 0.012". The neck started off way more than 0.030". I should have measured it.

I should also mention I apply pressure on the neck that is pushing it in a back bow manner to help the truss rod when tightening.

Dave

21st fret? every time I have adjusted the rod I used the 12th. That is how I was taught and have seen on many websites explaind how to do it. I would think it shows too much bend in the neck to check the clearence properly. Maybe i'm wrong but let me know.

[DavePlaysBass]

Originally Posted by bigd4207

21st fret? every time I have adjusted the rod I used the 12th. That is how I was taught and have seen on many websites explaind how to do it. I would think it shows too much bend in the neck to check the clearence properly. Maybe i'm wrong but let me know.

More than one way to skin a cat. If you have a ski jump at the end of the board, this will effect the 21st fret approach. But if the neck is in good shape, it works fine. I have been tweaking away with this method for a while and it allows me to get consistent results with different basses.

Dave

[fretlessrock]

I would be more concerned with the health of the truss adjuster. If everything is OK then there should be no problem. It couls have been backed all the way off and then some. I would have lubed the adjustment nut and checked the area where the nut seats.

I really wouldn't worry about how much of an adjustment you made. If you are concerned then pull the neck, clamp it up so you have no relief, service the truss adjuster, set it back to where it was, and you should be all set for nothing more than a minor tweak as needed.

[SGT. Pepper]

Changing from those heavy flats to the rounds should have compensated some to remove bow, those flats must have been one of the stiffer sets.