How much relief should I have without strings?

[Foamy]

I have a Squier Precision Special PJ.
I ran out of adjustment on the truss rod, and still need to take out about 1/16" of relief.
I see the tips here about adding a couple washers - I'll do that.
What concerns me is that there is about 1/8" relief in the neck as it sits with no tension on it - truss rod nut is removed.
I would expect that it'd be flat. I am guessing that this neck may have been not maintained or left in a hot car or something like that.

Where should it be with no tension normally?
Should I try and straighten it before playing with adding washers?
Or, is it just time to pitch it and get a new neck?

Thanks!

[Bassamatic]

Whatever the cause of the forward bow, you need the truss rod to pull it flat against the string tension.

I found some small brass washers at a hardware store that worked great. I dropped 2 of them in and was able to have all the adjustment I needed.

[Foamy]

Originally Posted by Gio S

Whatever the cause of the forward bow, you need the truss rod to pull it flat against the string tension.

I found some small brass washers at a hardware store that worked great. I dropped 2 of them in and was able to have all the adjustment I needed.

Gio, thanks. Yep, I get that I need the truss rod. I'm just a bit surprised that the neck, without tension just sitting on the table, has relief at all. I expected it to be flat.
Maybe I'm all wet about my expectations.
Also, I'm not sure how much relief the truss rod can actually remove.

It's at 1/8" now. With the Fender 9050 Flats on it, and the truss rod maxed, I still need to take out another 1/16" to 3/32" - quite a bit.

[JLS]

You're going to need to back clamp that neck.

[Foamy]

Crud - I think I just solved the problem. New neck time!
I was playing around a bit bending it ever-so-slightly by hand and the fingerboard just separated from the neck from the nut to about the second fret.
I don't think it's worth re-gluing it only to have to deal with the relief issue once the glue sets. Oh well, should be a cheap replacement.

[Pilgrim]

Well, you don't have much to lose by removing the fretboard (carefully) and inspecting the truss rod. You might learn something! Either you or a luthier could glue it back on.

[Foamy]

Originally Posted by Pilgrim

Well, you don't have much to lose by removing the fretboard (carefully) and inspecting the truss rod. You might learn something! Either you or a luthier could glue it back on.

You were right!
I spread the fingerboard apart from the neck and put a small wedge in, and worked some extended-set Titebond in with a razor to be sure I covered as much as I could. I cleaned it up the best I could - but not perfectly - but it was fine. Clamped it up for 4 hours.

Threw in 3 split-ring #8 washers (spread to fit over the 10x32 rod), and am now able to get the relief I want. I have it set to about 1.5 business cards. Yay!

Titebond is holding fine.

I also put some Fender roundwounds on because I think those Fender flats are high-tension, and I think I'll take it easy on this neck.

Good advice!

[RoboChrist]

You have a bum neck. A good neck will have negative relief with no tension. If you have relief with no tension...forget it.

[Foamy]

Originally Posted by RoboChrist

You have a bum neck. A good neck will have negative relief with no tension. If you have relief with no tension...forget it.

Kind of what I thought. But at this point, after adding the 3 washers, looks like I got it (barely) right about where I need it.

[BassieMike]

In situations like this, a little oil on the threads of the truss rod has been known to do wonders on occasion. If you want some lower tension flats try D'Add Chromes or Thomastik Jazz Flats.

-m