How to pull out the stripped screw from the body

musicelectronix · #1 08-01-2008, 08:36 PM

This can be considered as a general question, but in my case, it is pretty relevant. The thing is, one of the bridge screws is in pretty bad shape. I tried with at least 10 different sizes phillips screwdrivers, two of them is electric, there is just no "head" left (or whatever the official name is)

I can not properly do it with plyers, not enough clearance.

So what do I do now? I need to get it out without damaging the finish and move the bridge futher back.

Chasarms · #2 08-02-2008, 10:40 AM

The safest way to do it is to use a tool called an easy-out. It is a conical shaped tool with reverse threads on it.

You drill a tiny hole into the screw top, and screw this into it, once it bites, it will back the screw out.

bassmodder · #3 08-02-2008, 11:13 AM

Agreed. They work wonders!

Sears has a nice set for a good price.

lonote · #4 08-02-2008, 01:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chasarms

The safest way to do it is to use a tool called an easy-out. It is a conical shaped tool with reverse threads on it.

You drill a tiny hole into the screw top, and screw this into it, once it bites, it will back the screw out.

+1, an easy-out is the best way to do it.

Pilgrim · #5 08-02-2008, 03:58 PM

The challenge with EZ-outs is that you MUST drill in the exact center of the screw or you'll have more problems.

If the screw head stands above the bridge, I'd use a Dremel tool with a narrow abrasive cutting wheel and cut a slot across the head - then turn it out with a slotted screwdriver.

jkramer5 · #6 08-02-2008, 04:19 PM

There are also bit tips for electric screwguns designed for extracting stripped screws that require no pre drilling. U can use them by hand too if you have hand held bit driver. Any decent hardware store or DIY store should have them.

They are designed to "bite" into whats left of the head.

Here's one offer from sears

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952154000P

Jazzdogg · #7 08-02-2008, 05:04 PM

I can't tell you how many times I've been able to remove screws with my impact driver when other tools haven't worked - the momentary hammering pulses seem far more effective than a regular drill/driver.

When there's nothing left but a bloody stump, an EZ out can work wonders. I have a buddy who's been known to weld a piece of scrap steel long enough to grasp with pliars to the exposed end of a mangled screw; if you have metal working skills, that may be an option for you.

These also work well, but you'll have to remove the bridge first, and glue a plug into the hole when you're done:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...ew%20extractor

musicelectronix · #8 08-02-2008, 05:51 PM

Thank you for the all the help guys. I just bought an easy-out set to give it a try.

twangchief · #9 08-02-2008, 06:30 PM

I've used 'Grab-It' for the same purpose.

www.4grabit.com

...got it at Lowes.

musicelectronix · #10 08-05-2008, 01:42 AM

Ok, update time. I decided that Easy-out and I had our differences. It was time to let go and I did a favour to both of us. I drilled the stripped screw with a precision titanium 5/64 bit as suggested. When I began to work with the easy-out, it immediately enlarged the hole instead of grabing it. I was going only about in 40 rpm. I drilled deaper, it wrecked deeper

Maybe it's me, but I believe it's a really impractical tool. It might be good with shorter/less thread width screws though, but didn't really worked with my long-strong bridge screws.

Then I tried to cut the tip with a cutter wheel and opened up a groove for a basic slot screwdriver. It worked like a charm under 2 min.s. as opposed to 30 min.s of my life that I will never get back. Highly recommended!

Kenbuntu · #11 08-05-2008, 07:13 AM

The grab-it looks promising.

Pilgrim · #12 08-05-2008, 10:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by musicelectronix

Then I tried to cut the tip with a cutter wheel and opened up a groove for a basic slot screwdriver. It worked like a charm under 2 min.s. as opposed to 30 min.s of my life that I will never get back. Highly recommended!

(Grins and buffs fingernails on shirt....

)

emils · #13 08-06-2008, 05:50 AM

I see you pulled it out. Just for reference I've used an old Philips screwdriver and a drop of superglue with good results.

Jools4001 · #14 08-06-2008, 06:24 AM

OK this advice comes from working on my Ducati but be VERY careful of working with Easy-outs. They are made from very hard but very brittle material and they are really easy to snap (especially the smaller sized ones like you would need for a bridge screw). If you do drill a hole for an Easy-out and if you do snap it, you will now have a hardened chunk of steel in there that will prevent any further drilling. I would avoid them like the plague unless there is no other option.

What I would do in this instance is find a drill bit that is the same size as the shaft of the screw (or if you've already managed to undo some screws from the bridge, a drill bit that is exactly the same diameter as the hole in the bridge). Then I would take a centre punch and try to punch an indent right in the centre of the chewed screw, this may not be easy depending on the state it's in, but the idea is to create a start point for the drill so that it won't wander offline as you start drilling. Then CAREFULLY start drilling into the head of the screw. As long as the drill is centred and the same diameter as the screw shaft, it should only take a few milimetres to drill through the screw head (I'm assuming it's a countersunk screw) to the point where it joins the screw shaft and then the head of the screw will either fall off or you should be able to gently lever the bridge up and snap the last slither of metal holding the screw head on.

You will now be able to remove the bridge and hopefully be left with a small stub of the screw shaft sitting proud of the body. Once the head is off, the tension (or even any rust or corrosion) will have been released from the screw and you should be able to remove it easily with a pair of locking pliers.

blipndub · #15 08-08-2008, 06:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by musicelectronix

Then I tried to cut the tip with a cutter wheel and opened up a groove for a basic slot screwdriver. It worked like a charm under 2 min.s. as opposed to 30 min.s of my life that I will never get back. Highly recommended!

I like this method too, plus you get to make sparks with the dremel? Mmmmm..sparks. I do have one neck bolt that has not succumbed to the dremel method. It works perfect for bridges and tuner screws but for the big ones it's a little dicey.