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  #1  
Old 03-02-2012, 09:14 PM
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How to remove a broken strap lock screw?

Anyone know of any easy way to get a screw out where it's just a nub at this point?

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Thanks!
  #2  
Old 03-02-2012, 09:18 PM
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Can you get vise grips on it? Needle-nose pliers? You could try a variable speed drill in reverse (very slow speed). Don't overly worry about buggering up the hole, you can always fill it back in.
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  #3  
Old 03-02-2012, 09:22 PM
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Bring it to mike at maggio music on 18th ave and 85th street in brooklyn ny. He's the one who got mine out.
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  #4  
Old 03-02-2012, 09:26 PM
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I just did a dicey job of drilling one out on one of my basses. The best thing would be to take it to a pro.
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  #5  
Old 03-02-2012, 09:28 PM
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Well, the 1st approach I'd use would be a cutoff wheel in a dremel, and make a slot in what's left - and see if you can turn it out that way...

If that doesn't work, I've used a piece of steel tubing that's large enough to fit over the screw, and file some teeth in one end - chuck the other end up in a drill, and start to remove wood around the screw, with the drill turning in reverse... Usually, the tubing will snag the broken shank of the screw, and back it out of there... Then, fill the hole with toothpicks and wood glue, and install the post with a new screw... Basically, you're making a mini hole saw, and using it to remove enough wood around the broken screw to get a bite on it, then using the same tool to turn it back out...

If you're careful enough, the strap post will cover up any evidence of this repair... If you're not confident you can do this, take it to someone who can - but it really isn't all that hard...

- georgestrings

Last edited by georgestrings : 03-02-2012 at 09:30 PM.
  #6  
Old 03-02-2012, 10:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by georgestrings
Well, the 1st approach I'd use would be a cutoff wheel in a dremel, and make a slot in what's left - and see if you can turn it out that way...

If that doesn't work, I've used a piece of steel tubing that's large enough to fit over the screw, and file some teeth in one end - chuck the other end up in a drill, and start to remove wood around the screw, with the drill turning in reverse... Usually, the tubing will snag the broken shank of the screw, and back it out of there... Then, fill the hole with toothpicks and wood glue, and install the post with a new screw... Basically, you're making a mini hole saw, and using it to remove enough wood around the broken screw to get a bite on it, then using the same tool to turn it back out...

If you're careful enough, the strap post will cover up any evidence of this repair... If you're not confident you can do this, take it to someone who can - but it really isn't all that hard...

- georgestrings
Hey guys, thanks for the quick responses!

Based on this particular situation Georgestrings options seem to make the most sense. I do wonder if there are "hollow tunneling bits" out there so I don't have to fab one.
I have a huge one to cut thru counter tops for making holes for faucets, etc. Google here I come
  #7  
Old 03-02-2012, 10:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1954bassman
Can you get vise grips on it? Needle-nose pliers? You could try a variable speed drill in reverse (very slow speed). Don't overly worry about buggering up the hole, you can always fill it back in.
This I wish was the case . It looks like a someone put a small ball bearing in there. Just a smooth nub.
  #8  
Old 03-02-2012, 10:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Nerve
Bring it to mike at maggio music on 18th ave and 85th street in brooklyn ny. He's the one who got mine out.
12 years ago that would work when I lived in the city.
  #9  
Old 03-02-2012, 10:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chinjazz View Post
Hey guys, thanks for the quick responses!

Based on this particular situation Georgestrings options seem to make the most sense. I do wonder if there are "hollow tunneling bits" out there so I don't have to fab one.
I have a huge one to cut thru counter tops for making holes for faucets, etc. Google here I come
Yeah, that method works - I've done it a few times for other people... Fabing the "hole saw" really isn't all that hard, tbh...

Making a slot will work sometimes, too...


Whichever way you go, have someone hold the bass very securely, and be careful - I don't want to see anyone get hurt, or cause even more damage... Best of luck,


- georgestrings
  #10  
Old 03-02-2012, 11:34 PM
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Stuart Macdonald had a "Trade Secrets" article on the tubing hole-saw method. I think it was for a snapped off tuner screw. They used a dowel to fill the hole instead of toothpicks.

Although I have used a toothpick on a straplock screw hole that was just a stripped out a bit. That 30 second repair is still working 25 years later.
  #11  
Old 03-02-2012, 11:56 PM
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  #12  
Old 03-03-2012, 12:18 AM
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Lemmy's bass had "extracted 8 snapped screws and left in another 5" ????

Yipe!
  #13  
Old 03-03-2012, 05:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chainsaw Willie
Stuart Macdonald had a "Trade Secrets" article on the tubing hole-saw method. I think it was for a snapped off tuner screw. They used a dowel to fill the hole instead of toothpicks.

Although I have used a toothpick on a straplock screw hole that was just a stripped out a bit. That 30 second repair is still working 25 years later.
Hey CW, very cool! I'll look over there for that article. I like the 30 second part
  #14  
Old 03-03-2012, 10:13 AM
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There's a slight chance I may be able to cut a slot with a dremel cutting wheel. I want to have everything in hand if that doesn't work so I went to ace to look for some steel tubing. Didn't find any. Anyone know where I may find some? Maybe it's in a different area or along a specialty application of sorts?
  #15  
Old 03-03-2012, 10:40 AM
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Check a hobby store for the tubing. Those big radio control airplanes use all kinds of weird and clever hardware like small diameter metal tubing.
  #16  
Old 03-03-2012, 10:50 AM
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Thanks CW. We have a hobby oasis. Thanks have a great weekend!
  #17  
Old 03-03-2012, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chinjazz View Post
There's a slight chance I may be able to cut a slot with a dremel cutting wheel. I want to have everything in hand if that doesn't work so I went to ace to look for some steel tubing. Didn't find any. Anyone know where I may find some? Maybe it's in a different area or along a specialty application of sorts?

I'd get a short piece of brake line at an auto parts place - shouldn't cost more than $3-$5...


- georgestrings
  #18  
Old 03-03-2012, 11:23 AM
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I was wrong about the Stewart McDonald reference. It was an article in the Guitar Player Repair Guide book, written by Dan Erlewine ( who I believe is a contributor to the Stewart Macdonald Trade Secrets articles.)

Page 86 of my 2nd edition copy, "Removing Broken Headstock Screws"

This is a good book to have for all sorts of set-up, maintanance, and repairs.

Here is an attempt at pasting a link to google books:

http://books.google.com/books?id=zF2...ed=0CHYQ6AEwCQ
  #19  
Old 03-03-2012, 02:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by georgestrings

I'd get a short piece of brake line at an auto parts place - shouldn't cost more than $3-$5...

- georgestrings
This will fit perfectly into my Sunday plans . I always forget how the auto parts stores are great for odds and ends. Finishing materials for sure.

All you guys are saving me gas money!!! Thanks!
  #20  
Old 03-04-2012, 07:45 AM
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A very good way to make the tubular bit that we're discussing is to file teeth into the end of a split 'roll pin' of appropriate size; available in the wall 'o hardware at fine home centers.
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