How scratch-free do i need to make a body to stain? - Page 2

enim · #21 07-20-2007, 06:15 AM

Yeah, i chose to paint becuase the surface wasnt perfect (nor could it get that way), the wood had a few stains in it (black areas that couldnt be sanded out), and there were other imperfections that despite how hard i tried, i could make go away. So alas, 4 coats of duplicolor priming, a good sanding, 2 coats of the mirage base, and i messed up the middle coat. I put it on too heavy-too fast, and it sagged and ran a little bit. It looks awesome where its not messed up though.

62bass · #22 07-20-2007, 03:02 PM

I'll bet the Mirage finish is nice. Yes, sometimes you can only do so much to save a piece of wood. And some woods just don't look good with a stain or a clear finish on them.

If anybody wants to have a lot of fun putting a nice finish on a bass that has good wood to start with, the Carvin Bolt kits are excellent. They're also exceptionaly nice playing instruments. The bodies are 2 piece and because Carvin is sort of semi-custom, you can order and ask for something that will look good with a clear finish. I'm sure happy with the one I did and it's my favourite playing bass.

enim · #23 07-20-2007, 07:10 PM

2 questions:

Clear laqueur, do i have a specific time to recoat, or can i really recoat whenever i feel like it?

Do/Should i sand in between coats?

Im using the duplicolor clear that the mirage kit came with. Ill tell you know, round 2 of this stuff looks damned good. 12 primer coats, 3 base coats, 5 mid thus far.

62bass · #24 07-21-2007, 04:52 AM

It depends what type of lacquer it is. If it's nitrocellulose lacquer it can be recoated as soon as the previous coat is dry enough to sand lightly without gumming up the sandpaper. It can also be applied years later as the solvent dissolves the previous coat and the two fuse together. The same is not true of varnish and a few other coatings which are also called lacquer. You should go with what the Mirage instructions say.

I usually sand between coats with any type of clear finish-what's called "scuff sanding", which is a very light sanding with very fine wet or dry paper, not sanding enough to completely level the surface but just to take the tops off small ripples in the finish and the inevitable dust nibs. I use 400 grit or 600 grit paper for this. Usually after every second coat in the case of thinly applied wipe on finishes.

I'm not familiar with the product you're using but I have seen the results on a few guitars and they look very good.