How to set the action on my Musicman bass?

[kmk42019]

Ive read the f.a.q. section in ernie ball. I tried to get lower action on my bass but the frets buzz 12-21. Ive tried reaudjusting the saddles and adjusting the truss rod but I cant seem to get it. Any suggestions?

[Jeb]

EB says that all adjustments for "action" can be done with the truss rod adjustment. There IS a better way (why then would you have adjustable bridge saddles?).

Tune to pitch. Fret the first note with your left hand while fretting the fret where the neck meets the body with your right thumb. At the same time, reach with your right index finger as far up the neck as you can stretch and tap the string near mid neck. You should have a very slight space between the string and that fret. Say .015" (business card?) if we were measuring, but we're not so it doesn't matter THAT much. All we are doing here is making sure the neck has a very slight amount of relief.

Too much space? Turn the truss rod 1/8 to 1/4 turn to the right (righty-tighty!).
No space? Do the opposite. You need at least slight relief.

Now set your string height with the bridge saddles. 3/32"-7/64" between the string and the fret in the fret 12-17 neghborhood is about right for B-A strings. 5/64"-3/32" for the D and G strings. Whatever you want. Tune to pitch, intonate and play it!

I used to like crazy low action and my Stingray5 seemed to be the only bass I've ever owned capable of that (without buzz with my moderate attack). As time went on, I've trended to a much higher action and harder attack.

How low are you trying to go?

[kmk42019]

I want fairly low but not ridiculously low. Also what do you use to measure that tiny amount of space? I want to reset the factory setting and go from there. I already messed with the truss and saddles though. How do I return to factory settings?

[Indiana Mike]

read this


http://www.garywillis.com/pages/bass...tupmanual.html


tightening at the body end has the same effect as tightening at the headstock end , it removes relief or straightens the neck.

also

http://www.fender.com/support/basses.php

http://www.tunemybass.com/bass_setup/

be patient

set the relief first before anything else unless you like frustration



.

[Jeb]

Originally Posted by kmk42019

I want fairly low but not ridiculously low. Also what do you use to measure that tiny amount of space? I want to reset the factory setting and go from there. I already messed with the truss and saddles though. How do I return to factory settings?

I would consider "fairly" low what I said above. Ridiculously low? 1/16" maybe? Thats crazy low!

To measure string height, I use a 6" precision steel ruler that you can get at most hardware stores. The kind that have measurements in 64th of an inch increments.

To measure relief you'd need a feeler gauge like they sell in automotive stores and a capo to secure that first fret note because you'll need the extra hand to take the measurement. But you don't really need to do that. By following my technique above you can verify that you have about a business card worth of space between the bottom of the string and the top of the fret at mid neck with the string fretted at the first fret and at the body. You can see it. If you could fit a credit card in there, that might be a bit much for me but OK for others. Set up is personal, not set in stone.

Factory settings? Doesn't matter, just because they set it at the factory doesn't mean thats what it'll be in your hands. This stuff changes on its own with climate/temperature changes and such.

Its really not as complex as it seems, but I've been doing it for years. But if factory settings are impotant to you, then:
.015" of relief as measured mid neck with the first and last frets depressed and 3/32" string height in the fret 12-17 neighborhood is pretty typical of a properly setup electric bass.

Does that make sense? There is tons of info on the internet regarding this. Indiana Mike posted links to some of the best.

[kmk42019]

Thanks for the help guys! Also it said in one of those links to not turn the truss rod more than 1/4 turn a day. Does this hold true?

[Jeb]

1/4 turn makes a very noticeable difference. Yes, I'd hold true to that one.

[Ostinato]

New Stingrays also put up a pretty good fight when turning the spoke wheel. You can crank it pretty good so don't worry about breaking it. I go 8th turns at a time if it gets hard, reloosen and tighten again, going a bit further...It's almost impossible to break a Stingray truss rod if you do it this way.
The best way to check your relief though is touch the first and last fret on the E and sight the neck for relief. Then you'll see where you're at while you're adjusting. It sounds like you need to loosen the nut.