How to slick the neck or make it faster

[et141311]

I bought a Fender P-Bass (2000 MIM) over ebay and got it today and I found that its not as slick as my other Fender and the neck is alittle bigger...which I knew it was gonna be. But I cant slide or go as fast on this bass. How can I "slick it up"?

[SOA_bassist]

man made mayoniase works well... oh wait you said you wanted to slick the bass up... nvm then

[62bass]

If the neck is really glossy and your hand sticks because of this, try dulling the gloss down with 000 steel wool. Don't cut right through the finish to bare wood. Just dull the sheen down. Tape off your pickups with masking tape so they won't pick up steel wool residue.

I do this on my basses that are too glossy and it works. After a few years of playing, the constant burnishing from your hand will cause it to become too glossy again and you may have to do it once more.

Make sure you're playing with proper fretting hand technique and not grabbing the whole neck with your thumb over the edge of the neck. That'll really make for hard work.

[DemoEtc]

That steel wool idea works great. Take care not to get any metal dust on the pickups. I don't know how that affects the resale value though.

For me, I spray Fingerease on the strings and the back of the neck if the instrument has a glossy neck finish.

The steel wool/satin finish is the most permanent though.


Best

[62bass]

Originally Posted by DemoEtc

That steel wool idea works great. Take care not to get any metal dust on the pickups. I don't know how that affects the resale value though.

For me, I spray Fingerease on the strings and the back of the neck if the instrument has a glossy neck finish.

The steel wool/satin finish is the most permanent though.


Best

Almost permanent, as I mentioned. Lots of playing and over time it gets polished to a high gloss again. It may take years though. A kitchen table I finished in gloss varnish and rubbed to a satin with steel wool 2 years ago is now almost up to a gloss again from daily wiping clean with a damp cloth.

As far as steel wool residue, the masking tape I mentioned works fine. Vacuum up after finishing the work to avoid later contamination.

[Minger]

Aside from steel wool, sandpaper (400 or 800 grit) is also a very viable option.

[pkr2]

3M pads work just a well as steel wool but without the mess around the pups.

I thinned the neck on my URB several years ago and didn't put any finish at all on the back of the neck. It has as smooth a neck as I've ever played. The wood is sealed so well that water will bead on it.

[Jazz Ad]

Gloss finish on the back of a neck is a crime.
Satin all the way. Steel wool out !

[62bass]

Originally Posted by Minger

Aside from steel wool, sandpaper (400 or 800 grit) is also a very viable option.

Yes, that works well too. Use a bit of water or mineral oil to float away the residue so it doesn't gum up the sandpaper. Wet or Dry type is the best. With sandpaper though, you have to be a little more careful not to cut through the finish to bare wood. You can use a foam pad.

[blipndub]

You can start with an 800 grit and work your way up to 1500 and then steel wool it will help a lot.

[PilbaraBass]

Originally Posted by DemoEtc

That steel wool idea works great. Take care not to get any metal dust on the pickups. I don't know how that affects the resale value though.

For me, I spray Fingerease on the strings and the back of the neck if the instrument has a glossy neck finish.

The steel wool/satin finish is the most permanent though.


Best

my fingers are generally oily enough, so I never use products like fingerease.

I do however, like to take a 3m nylon scour pad to the back of a new maple neck...about 10 real quick up and down actions usually does the trick.

[Nick Ioannucci]

i just took a 3m scuff pad(a green one) to my neck, as it is 11:35 and i was bored. all i have to say is... wow. soo good, feels way nicer in my hands than the glossy finish my bass used to have. no more gloss for me, satin baby!!