I cant get the action on my 62 low?

punkbassistfc · #1 10-29-2007, 06:32 AM

Hey guys,

Well I bought a fender mia 62 reissue second hand. When it fir st got to me it was unplayable past the 12th fret on the A string, as I raised the action it started to become playable. Now the action is quite high and its really hard for me to play it. Im really struggling with it. I was told by a guy that I respect heaps as a bass tech that i needed it to be shimmed down the fretboard because a lot of these fender models have the same problem. Is this right? I really need to know as i dont want to waste any more money on set-ups etc.

Cheers heaps

Bass Kahuna · #2 10-29-2007, 08:32 AM

On a good number of fenders, it is not uncommon to place a thin shim under the very end of the heel of the neck in the neck pocket (about the thickness of a business card or a piece of wood veneer - .023" or 1/32 - 1/40").

This is usually done to correct the issue where the bridge saddles are all the way down as low as they can go but the action is still too high.

However, it doesn't sound like that is what you're describing. I read in your description above that you can lower the bridge saddles to the point where you would prefer the action to be, however at that point you're getting too much string buzz. If that is the case, there are several things that I would suggest need to be checked.

1 - The amount of relief in the neck. If there is too much forward relief in the neck, you won't be able to set the action low

2 - The frets need to be checked to ensure they are all level and in the same plane. I prefer to do a setup as Dan Erlewine describes in some of his books where the last frets have a "fallaway". I've seen a good number of bolt neck basses where there is an actual rise in the end of the neck which can cause the action to have to be set pretty high to avoid buzzing. Correcting unlevel frets involves shaving and levelling all of the frets, including putting a "fallaway" on the last few, or to file down just the frets that are higher than the rest which are causing the problem. Some Techs include this in a setup, others do not and charge extra for levelling, dressing and polishing the frets.

You say you've don't want to spend anymore money on setups. How many guitar techs have worked on it so far? I would be so bold as to say if a tech did a setup on it and you're not happy with it, did you describe exactly what was not right with the bass and what you wanted done before dropping it off? And if they didn't get it done how you wanted it you should consider taking it back and asking them to make it right (that is if it hasn't been 6 months since the setup was done...).

punkbassistfc · #3 10-29-2007, 09:16 AM

Hey mate, cheers for taking the time ou to respond.

It is unplayable once I put the bridge down lower then it is now. You cannot hit a note at all. Im really starting to get worried as this is my last bass for a while and we are going on tour next year and I was going to use it as my number 1.

Chasarms · #4 10-29-2007, 09:40 AM

I think the kahuna hit it on the head. Sounds a lot like there is too much relief in the neck.

Loosen the strings, give the truss rod a 1/4 - 1/2 turn tighten and try setting the action again.

punkbassistfc · #5 10-29-2007, 11:14 AM

Ok, I will give that a shot tommorow. Will this make the bass play any better? At the moment it is really really bad. It is extremely diffucult to play. Will a lower action help this?

Greg Clinkingbeard · #6 10-29-2007, 12:25 PM

I believe a good starting place for relief is to have about the thickness of a credit card between the E string and 5th fret when pushing the string down at the first and twelfth frets. Less relief can cause buzz at the nut end and more will put the action too high.

BTW, your nut slots should have the string barely clearing the first fret. Some say that when holding the string at the second fret you should have the tiniest space between the first fret and string. Agressive play on open strings can cause buzzing, so YMMV.

punkbassistfc · #7 10-29-2007, 12:35 PM

Hey dude,

When I put the action down to the height that I want the string murtes past the 12th fret. Nothing comes from it at all, no buzzing, nothing. The guy explained to me that if they take the frets out past the 12th fret and then sand it down a bit then replace the frets it should be sweet.

g4string · #8 10-29-2007, 01:45 PM

while holding down the 1st and 13th fret on the A string..........should be .008 between the fret and the string at the 6th fret. If its too much....tighten the truss rod.

FWIW, .008 is about the thickness of a standard stock business card

Greg Clinkingbeard · #9 10-29-2007, 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by g4string

while holding down the 1st and 13th fret on the A string..........should be .008 between the fret and the string at the 6th fret. If its too much....tighten the truss rod.

FWIW, .008 is about the thickness of a standard stock business card

From the tone of Punk's last post it appears he isn't listening and already has it figured out.

g4string · #10 10-29-2007, 02:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clink

From the tone of Punk's last post it appears he isn't listening and already has it figured out.

Cant say we didn't try......................A lot of people try lowering the action by adjusting the saddles when actually the rod needs to be adjusted. I am by know means an expert. I am glad he figured it out

Greg Clinkingbeard · #11 10-29-2007, 02:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by g4string

Cant say we didn't try......................A lot of people try lowering the action by adjusting the saddles when actually the rod needs to be adjusted. I am by know means an expert. I am glad he figured it out

Where IS that belt sander

pkr2 · #12 10-29-2007, 02:57 PM

I suggest that you stop right where you are, take a deep breath and systematically determine what the problem is.

You haven't given nearly enough information for anyone to do more than make a guess at the problem.

Forget sanding the neck down, at least for the moment.

First step is to get the neck straight. Don't even concern yourself with whether or not it's playable. If you can't straighten the neck, it will never accept a good setup. Check it with a straight edge.

Do this step and let us know if it can be made straight.

Don't try to get ahead of the instructions. That will really screw up any hope of us helping you at all.

Matthew Bryson · #13 10-29-2007, 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by punkbassistfc

I really need to know as i dont want to waste any more money on set-ups etc.

Well, based on the fact that you are able to afford to buy a nice used MIA Fender, and you are planning for your band to go out on tour soon, and you clearly do not understand much about how to set up a bass - I really do not think that money spent on a set up would be anything close to "wasted" money. I think it would be quite the opposite. It would be money very well spent.

Chasarms · #14 10-29-2007, 03:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by punkbassistfc

Hey dude,

. . . The guy explained to me that if they take the frets out past the 12th fret and then sand it down a bit then replace the frets it should be sweet.

This is an absurd suggestion. Whoever told you this should be removed from your list of bass maintenance counselors.

If indeed the neck pocket is such that a properly set relief doesn't give you the action you want, a shim in the neck pocket to change the set angle is far less invasive than your method.

agreatheight · #15 10-29-2007, 03:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matthew Bryson

Well, based on the fact that you are able to afford to buy a nice used MIA Fender, and you are planning for your band to go out on tour soon, and you clearly do not understand much about how to set up a bass - I really do not think that money spent on a set up would be anything close to "wasted" money. I think it would be quite the opposite. It would be money very well spent.

+1, pay for a set up.

Now, you are going on tour - will you have a tech? If so, they will likely set your bass up for you on the road. If not, take some time to learn about setting up your instrument so you can do it yourself, you will need to. I still suggest getting a pro set up first - adjusting an already set up bass is way easier than taming an unruly beast. Do some reading, or better yet, watch the guy who works on yours and ask questions. Find a pro, it sounds like your bass needs some real help.

Best of luck!

Greg Clinkingbeard · #16 10-29-2007, 03:21 PM

What he may be saying is that old Fender necks, and I mean true 60's necks have a reputation for developing a warp at the heel. The area above the heel(15-16th fret) is fixed and unaffected by the truss rod except that the rod is squeezing the neck lengthwise in that section. As I understand it, that can cause a bulge in the fingerboard up there.
I seriously doubt that is occurring in a newer bass. If it were, I certainly wouldn't go to the trouble of fixing it. Just throw on another neck and be done with it.

g4string · #17 10-29-2007, 03:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clink

What he may be saying is that old Fender necks, and I mean true 60's necks have a reputation for developing a warp at the heel. The area above the heel(15-16th fret) is fixed and unaffected by the truss rod except that the rod is squeezing the neck lengthwise in that section. As I understand it, that can cause a bulge in the fingerboard up there.
I seriously doubt that is occurring in a newer bass. If it were, I certainly wouldn't go to the trouble of fixing it. Just throw on another neck and be done with it.

or save the money that you would have spent on a neck and buy a belt sander then DIY

Seriously,

It sounds like your tech is an idiot.......quickly get your bass out of there before he talks you into something that you may regret later. Try and find a reputable tech in your area and see what he can do. Also, explain to him your situation and offer him some extra $$ to have him show you how to set your bass.

Once your saddles are set you should never need to touch them again - all you will need to do is tweak the truss rod every once in a awhile.

If the neck is seriously warped and unrepairable - a new neck is the best option. However, you are still going to need a tech to install the neck and set the bass up.

So, no matter what road you take, it all points back to: FIND A GOOD TECH.

Good luck bro!

Greg Clinkingbeard · #18 10-29-2007, 04:38 PM

http://www.bassplayer.com/article/wo...s/nov-05/15314
The article from Dan Erlewine about kinky necks.

NorCal Dog · #19 10-29-2007, 05:03 PM

have you ever heard the saying,, you can lead a horse to water,, but you can't make him drink.... perfect example right here..

dude,, if you ask for advice here,,, unplug your friggin ears

you obviously don't have a clue as to how to set up a bass,, let alone have the vocabulary to even explain the process correctly

you have gotten sound advice from these good people here on talkbass

my advice,,,, rip the last frets & let your friend sand awayy,,, then maybe, just maybe you'll learn a valuable lesson... THE HARD WAY

202dy · #20 10-29-2007, 08:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joshua

While there are a few other quote worthy posts in this thread, the above is the one that is basically what I would've typed. To the OP: check relief first, and adjust the truss rod to taste.

In the sticky thread at the top of the forum about truss rods and action there are links to lots of great info, including Fender's own setup guide (Mr. Gearhead).

"Learn it. Know it. Live it."

And let's all remember rule #1, respect. It's hard to always convey all our thoughts perfectly in text...

^^^