|  | 
10-08-2007, 06:48 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Dublin, Ireland | | | I Can't Get My Strap Button Off
Sign in to disble this ad
I was putting straplocks on my Conklin, and managed with little problem getting the one on the horn end on. Then I went to do the one at the lead end and the screw won't come out - the screw driver won't grip. I think the screw head itself might be worn. In a last effort before just leaving it be, I am wondering if anyone has any suggestions for getting it out?
(I guess my strap won't fall off as is on the plus side!!) |
10-08-2007, 08:20 AM
|  | America's Favorite Hot Dog! | | Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: CHI/NWI | | | Get a Dremmel with a cutting wheel on it and cut a new groove into the head of the screw. You might mess up the strap button, but it will get it out. I find myself doing this with stripped screws more times than I care to.
OR!
A light tap on the butt of the screwdriver might sink it into the screw just enough to grip it out. This one is a long shot, but some people are nervous of power tools around their basses.
Good luck to you. |
10-08-2007, 03:26 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: coastal N.C. | | | Using glue, epoxy, or JB Weld on the screw threads has gained popularity among a lot of the people offering advice on the forum. You may be the victim of this very poor method of securing the straplock screw.
If so, all I can do is wish you good luck. You can easily wring the screw off before it will ever back out.
How do you tell if it has been chemically welded into the hole? Beats me!! That's why I cringe when people post advice advocating the practice.
The Dremel tool cutting a new slot is the best advice so far, imo.
__________________
"what" we type is "who" we are in cyberspace. Not only is big brother watching you, the whole world is watching you.
|
10-08-2007, 03:42 PM
| | | | ^^^
pkr2 is right. Short term solutions for long term problems usually lead to catastrophic failures. To paraphrase Hideo Kamimoto, using epoxies to perform routine procedures that should be handled through normal woodworking protocols is a cruel trick to play on an unsuspecting repairman down the road.
Using a Dremel tool to cut a new slot is a great idea when there is access to the top of the screw head and/or the locking device does not need to be preserved. If the screw absolutely will not budge any other way an Easy Out may be employed. It is a hard steel tool with reverse threads cut on the outside of the tool shaft. A small hole is bored in the center of the head and shaft of the recalcitrant fastener. The easy out placed in a drill tap holder and is threaded into the hole. It screws in CCW so that when it locks up the CCW motion is continued to back the screw out of the hole. |
10-09-2007, 12:44 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Gloucester, UK | | | If I use epoxy to reform a hole, then I grease up the screw with vaseline before screwing it in... that way, when the epoxy has set, I can still get the screw out...
__________________
Tanglewood TW55 A/Bass B, Tanglewood Warrior IV, Squier VMJ, Vintage V950B, Laney RB6, Boss ME-20B, Zoom B2.1U CP&WBBC #6, ABFC #59, MBC #188
|
10-09-2007, 05:25 AM
| | Registered User
Endorsing: Ampeg | | Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Apopka, FL | | | I had this problem last week. The screw stripped and I couldn't get it out. I took it to my brother who had a drill, and drilled off the head entirely, then took a vise grip and gently screwed the post out. PITA but it came out. |
10-17-2007, 07:23 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Dublin, Ireland | | | Problem sorted! I brought my bass to a custom guitar maker that was highly recommended - Derrik Nelson - yesterday. He had a look and is going to saw the screw out! I left it with him, so, my poor bass in on the operation table today! If anything, it'll be a good excuse to get off work a bit earlier! *ahem* |
10-18-2007, 05:51 PM
| | | | you should of just used a bigger size screwdriver thats what i do |
10-19-2007, 04:25 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Dublin, Ireland | | | Trust me, every size screw driver was used!! |
10-21-2007, 06:40 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: footballscannotbekickediguess | | Quote:
Originally Posted by manicbassman  If I use epoxy to reform a hole, then I grease up the screw with vaseline before screwing it in... that way, when the epoxy has set, I can still get the screw out... | Then why use epoxy?
__________________
*Recipient of the 2006 Time Magazine "Man Of The Year" Award*
|
10-21-2007, 11:18 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Gloucester, UK | | | to reform the hole when the thread has stripped...
__________________
Tanglewood TW55 A/Bass B, Tanglewood Warrior IV, Squier VMJ, Vintage V950B, Laney RB6, Boss ME-20B, Zoom B2.1U CP&WBBC #6, ABFC #59, MBC #188
|
10-23-2007, 06:37 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Dublin, Ireland | | | I collected the bass, and was told that somewhere along the way before it reached my hands, the bass must have been dropped with some force on the strap button as the screw had basically bent in the body of the bass, making it more or less impossible to remove. Needless to say, the guy that did the work on it for me managed to get it out (and subsequently I discovered, no better man - he repairs Edge's guitars from U2 who has quite a collection of guitars).
It's a lesson in looking after one's instruments, as a bang might cause damage that's not immediately evident! | | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | | 
Posting Rules
| You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts
HTML code is On | | | |
