I just changed my strings and the action changed...

[ilovemysr505]

Hey TB peeps, I just changed my strings and the action changed. The Gauge is the same. It is an EB 6 String Long Scale Slinky @ 130-100-80-65-45-32. The action was not the same after changing my strings. Is this normal? Or should I be adjusting the truss rod @ 1/8 a turn? My bass is an EBMM Bongo 6 HH. Cheers!

[conqr]

New strings of even the exact make and gauge will be different than older broken in strings. Adjust as required to restore the feel you like. Personally I never found this necessary unless changing gauge.

[Exploiter8]

One thing I do when changing strings is to change one at a time.

I used to pull off the old, clean and oil the fretboard, let it dry, then put on the new strings. All of that un-strung time let the neck go way out of whack by the time I re-strung her.

Just a thought,
X8

[mech]

Did you set the break angle of the strings at the bridge saddles and nut? New strings do not immediately form to the necessary angles over the saddles and nut. Press down on the strings where they go over the bridge saddles with your thumb and press down on the strings where they go over the nut with your thumb on one side and fingers on the other. This will take out the "bow" in the new strings at these points. You'll see the most difference in action height on the larger strings.

I've never had to change the neck relief or string height adjustments when using the same brand and gauge of strings, even when taking all the old strings off at one time.

Some brands of strings will have higher or lower tension even for the same gauge. If setting the break angle suggestion doesn't work you may need to adjust the neck relief.

mech

[Benjamin Strange]

You mentioned that the gauges are the same - but are they the same brand/type? Differences in core wire and construction can affect string tension, even when the gauges are the same.

You can adjust the truss rod, but remember that adjusting the truss in and of itself is not a magic bullet. A proper setup is all inclusive, and every change you make affects another part of the setup.

[darkstorm]

Diff brands with same gauges can have diff tension which then needs small truss rod adjustment. Change strings one at a time, tuning up as you go then rretweak tuning when done with last string. Check relief by sighting down the neck from body toward headstock. Adjust trussrod if needed. For same gauges diff brands the truss rod adjustment is ussually very small one, 1/8-1/4 turn max.

[Benjamin Strange]

Don't sight it down from the body - sight it from the headstock. Why put what you are looking at farther away from your eye?

[JTE]

Or actually check the relief by fretting the B string at the first and last fret. That gives you a reasonable straight edge. You're looking for a little gap between the bottom of the string and the top of the 7th fret- about 1/32" to 1/64" is a good place. If there's too much, tighten the truss rod some- assuming you KNOW how.

John

[Turnaround]

Originally Posted by Benjamin Strange

Don't sight it down from the body - sight it from the headstock. Why put what you are looking at farther away from your eye?

Far-sighted?

[Johnny Crab]

Originally Posted by Exploiter8

One thing I do when changing strings is to change one at a time.

I used to pull off the old, clean and oil the fretboard, let it dry, then put on the new strings. All of that un-strung time let the neck go way out of whack by the time I re-strung her.

Just a thought,
X8

+100
Exactly my experience as well.
Rotosounds.

[Benjamin Strange]

Originally Posted by JTE

Or actually check the relief by fretting the B string at the first and last fret. That gives you a reasonable straight edge. You're looking for a little gap between the bottom of the string and the top of the 7th fret- about 1/32" to 1/64" is a good place. If there's too much, tighten the truss rod some- assuming you KNOW how.

John

Typically, the truss rod doesn't affect very much past the 15th fret or so - especially on bolt on neck guitars. Fretting at the first and last is sometimes not as effective - sometimes a neck has a kick a the end of the board that can affect your truss rod measurements. At my shop we usually fret at the 1st and 13th, and use feeler gauges at the 6th fret. Checking action in this or a similar way is a good idea, but it's still helpful to sight down a neck, to check for uneven frets, twists, and ski jumps in the board.

[ilovemysr505]

Originally Posted by Benjamin Strange

You mentioned that the gauges are the same - but are they the same brand/type? Differences in core wire and construction can affect string tension, even when the gauges are the same.

You can adjust the truss rod, but remember that adjusting the truss in and of itself is not a magic bullet. A proper setup is all inclusive, and every change you make affects another part of the setup.

Yes the strings are the same brand, Ernie Ball Slinkys. I'll try do the pressing the strings at the nut/saddle thingy if it helps. Thank you guys for the tips!