Im afraid to set up my bass to different strings

osmarokuma · #1 09-01-2011, 01:51 PM

In the past I would usually do this myself but I got my new (and first) smith a couple of weeks ago and I am afraid to do any major set up and adjustments myself (its my baby). The strings that came with the smith are taper core and I like to play flat wounds on my basses so I would like to change them sometime soon.

I am not sure if I should try to do the adjustments myself since the nut will probably need recutting and bridge adjusted...etc.

Anyone have any suggestions? or does anyone know a good luthier in Boston which could help me out?

FretlessMainly · #2 09-01-2011, 02:16 PM

Jim and Jon Mouradian, Main Street, Winchester. They are not just good luthiers, they are the best.

darkstorm · #3 09-01-2011, 05:20 PM

Ken Smith basses are well made, sure you'll prob need truss rod adjusment, but Smiths are going to be stronger built then many basses out there. Learn to do your own setups. Your Smith will play and sound better. This also includes pup adjustments. Sure ahve a good tech do new nut if it is needed. Though Id be surprised unless your going for sig heavier then average string gauges. Maybe you could ask JIm & Jon mentioned by FretlessMainly to go over basic truss rod, bridge, and pup adjustments with you so you can then further tweak action etc to taste. As well as take care of any little seasonal changes that may be needed, and of course for any string brand changes that might need little truss rod tweak etc.

**Staccato** · #4 09-01-2011, 05:34 PM

One string at a time. Start with the FATTEST string, and finish with the G (or smallest diameter string).

If you're thowing away the old ones read this:
1. Take your string 'wire' cutters and as you cut ONLY one string in half, gently place the remaining string halves down (no scratches on the body wood, please).
2. As you are FIRMLY holding the sharp end that you just cut, and you start unwinding the ONLY string that you cut...unwind it at the headstock, and get it away from your bass. Then, remove the half at the bridge-carefully.
3. Install the new string in place of the ONE that you removed.
4. Cut the next string ONLY, and repeat by holding each end FIRMLY as you do this.
5. If you're trying to save the old strings without cutting them, you're asking for a scratch on your bass' body.

After you've finished, tune them and keep the tuner handy for those 'new' strings.

FretlessMainly · #5 09-01-2011, 07:44 PM

I agree that one should be able to do their own setups, but if the OP is new to it, and if his Smith bass has a scalloped brass nut on it like mine does, the OP may be better off opting to have it done for him.

Jim or Jon would likely be glad to impart some of their skills and knowledge, but I booked an appt. today for some electronics work (I don't do electrons), and they are booked until Sept 26th or 27th.

osmarokuma: I was able to put a set of TI Jazz flats and a set of LaBella DTB flats (both non-tapered) on my Smith with no nut modifications, so you may be OK.

osmarokuma · #6 09-01-2011, 08:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FretlessMainly

I agree that one should be able to do their own setups, but if the OP is new to it, and if his Smith bass has a scalloped brass nut on it like mine does, the OP may be better off opting to have it done for him.

Jim or Jon would likely be glad to impart some of their skills and knowledge, but I booked an appt. today for some electronics work (I don't do electrons), and they are booked until Sept 26th or 27th.

osmarokuma: I was able to put a set of TI Jazz flats and a set of LaBella DTB flats (both non-tapered) on my Smith with no nut modifications, so you may be OK.

Yeah im not new at it but im not the best and the brass nut got me to think twice.

I was thinking that the TI jazz flats might have too thick of a B string. Wasnt sure what the difference would be compared with the taper from ks that came with the bass. I hope they fit, might think about the labella cuz i dont know if i can wait till the 26th!

FretlessMainly · #7 09-01-2011, 10:49 PM

The B on a TI Jazz 346 set is 0.136, which is about as thick as you can get in a stock flat set. My Smith is a 6-string (fretless), and I had no issues at all with slapping that TI JF 0.136 on there.

As far as I know, the big deal regarding taper is more at the tailpiece end. Well, all strings taper to a degree at the headstock end, but the term "taper core" seems to be directed at the bridge/tailpiece end, not the nut/headstock end. That's my experience anyway. You'll often find that taper strings have major taper about 2 inches from the tailpiece anchor point. The headstock end taper is a bit more gradual - the TIs maintained their full width well past the nut (in the right direction - toward the tuners), but fitting the low B in the nut required no mods.