Im an idiot.

[Sub5ound]

While affixing the ashtrai bridge cover to my brand new 50's Precision, I tore up the finish around the screwholes. There were no origional holes so I made two in the appropriate places with a smaller bit...hoping to avoid this!!!! I went to adjust the saddles last night and discovered the areas around the new holes had been cracked and chunked out. Is this repairable within a reasonable price range or do I have to go to sleep at night knowing that my bass has been scarred for life?!?!??!

[Sub5ound]

bump

[Bygde]

Does it show when the ashtray is on? If not, I don't see the issue. If it does, you'll probably have to live with it, or get it refinished. I'm no expert in finishing, but from what I've heard, it's harder to refinish a spot (to perfection that is) than refinishing the guitar. You are probably better off just leaving it as is.

[sidd_laroy]

yeah, think of it this way.... now it has character.

[Sub5ound]

It does not show with the ashtray on...guess I'll have to live with it.

[Bygde]

Originally Posted by sidd_laroy

yeah, think of it this way.... now it has character.

Exactly. Scratches and dents etc basically shows the history of your bass. This is why I'd rather play an instrument until the paint comes off instead of buying a reliced one.

[Sub5ound]

Yeah, they're just not the type of scratches or marks I'd prefer to have. I like the ones that are in the usual places. Oh well.

[Honk'n_down-low]

Instantly reliced (in one spot) - you just increased the value : )

[Ampeg SVT]

Originally Posted by Bygde

This is why I'd rather play an instrument until the paint comes off instead of buying a reliced one.

Not this again

[Sub5ound]

I like the natural wear & tear. There is a whole storm brewing over this topic in the RoadWorn forum. I doubt the Roadworns have holes screwed in already for the covers. Damn it! I should have let my guy do it. I leave the tray on anyway so it does'nt matter anyway I guess. At least I didn't dig a chunk of wood out with a butterknife so I could access my truss rod, like some idiot did to my Jazz bass...

[Pilgrim]

I had the same thing happen while drilling holes for a bridge cover on a black poly-finished Turser. Maybe I should have taped over the drill area first.... It surprised me how think the finish was, and how easy it was to crack.

But fortunately the cover extends over the cracked area so it doesn't show - just like yours. You might put a dab of clear nail polish around the edges of the chip, just to stabilize it. As long as it doesn't show, you're OK. If the bass is black, then even if the chip showed a tiny bit, a Sharpie would probably camo it so that it wouldn't be visible.

Hey you bass players - what IS the best process to use while drilling pilot holes for bridge and pickup cover screws? How does one minimize the potential for finish cracking around the drilled area??

[JustDavid]

Originally Posted by Pilgrim

what IS the best process to use while drilling pilot holes for bridge and pickup cover screws? How does one minimize the potential for finish cracking around the drilled area??

My GUESS, & until someone experienced chimes in, would be to start with a very small bit & hand drill it in at very slow speed & drill all the way down to wood. This might involve spinning the bit between your fingers. Still with slow speed, jump a bit size or two & repeat. Repeat until the hole is wide enough to clear the screw threads.

AND tighten gently, so that force from the cover doesn't then cause stress cracks. Perhaps even some tape under the cover to act like a gasket & even out the holding force all the way around the cover.

AND/OR research glass drilling. A window pane can't be more sturdy than a bass finish.

[62bass]

Originally Posted by Sub5ound

While affixing the ashtrai bridge cover to my brand new 50's Precision, I tore up the finish around the screwholes. There were no origional holes so I made two in the appropriate places with a smaller bit...hoping to avoid this!!!! I went to adjust the saddles last night and discovered the areas around the new holes had been cracked and chunked out. Is this repairable within a reasonable price range or do I have to go to sleep at night knowing that my bass has been scarred for life?!?!??!

I doubt I could do a completely invisible repair at any reasonable price, and I've done a lot of that work. It could be disguised some but you'd still see if. If it doesn't show under the cover, leave it.

[Jools4001]

Originally Posted by Pilgrim

Hey you bass players - what IS the best process to use while drilling pilot holes for bridge and pickup cover screws? How does one minimize the potential for finish cracking around the drilled area??

Use a Bradawl. It's a very simple tool like a small screwdriver but the shaft is quite thin and it has a sharp point at the end. This makes it easy to place the point EXACTLY where you want the screw to be, apply a little firm pressure and put a small hole into the surface. You then take a sharp drill that is the same thickness as the centre shaft of the screw (so that if you hold the screw and the drill bit alongside each other the thread of the screw is wider than the drill bit). Then you can put the tip of the drill bit into the hole you made with the Bradawl and start drilling - it's best to use a hand drill or a variable speed drill and start slow. Unless you are completely ham fisted, the hole you made with the Bradawl will keep the drill bit centred and stop it from skidding sideways across the surface.

[dmusic148]

Originally Posted by Jools4001

Use a Bradawl. It's a very simple tool like a small screwdriver but the shaft is quite thin and it has a sharp point at the end. This makes it easy to place the point EXACTLY where you want the screw to be, apply a little firm pressure and put a small hole into the surface. You then take a sharp drill that is the same thickness as the centre shaft of the screw (so that if you hold the screw and the drill bit alongside each other the thread of the screw is wider than the drill bit). Then you can put the tip of the drill bit into the hole you made with the Bradawl and start drilling - it's best to use a hand drill or a variable speed drill and start slow. Unless you are completely ham fisted, the hole you made with the Bradawl will keep the drill bit centred and stop it from skidding sideways across the surface.

Good idea in any event, but that doesn't solve the problem. The cracking is caused by the screw as it's driven in to the wood, causing the wood around the hole to bulge outward and upward.
The solution is to drill a very shallow(1/16" deep)pilot hole which is just a tiny bit bigger that the screw thread. Finish the hole with a bit which is about the same side as the thread root of the screw(smaller than the screw thread).
Now, when you drive in the screws, they don't start to grab and deform the wood until they are slightly below the surface. No chipping.
As always, it is critical to use sharp drills.

[stflbn]

I know it's to late now... but...

Double
Faced
Tape


.

[RED5]

[quote=JustDavid;6839349]My GUESS, & until someone experienced chimes in, would be to start with a very small bit & hand drill it in at very slow speed & drill all the way down to wood. This might involve spinning the bit between your fingers. Still with slow speed, jump a bit size or two & repeat. Repeat until the hole is wide enough to clear the screw threads.

Very small bit. I use pindrills up to 1/2 the thread size and let the thread cut the final. Oh yeah tape over the area to be drilled, minimizes cracks and stray scratches. With the thinck shells they put on instruments these days some cracking is inevitable.

[martyman5000]

Next time used some masking tape before you drill...

[JoeyZ]

haha, i too put an unecessary hole in my Jazz Bass! The pickgaurd was popping up so i slapped a screw in there to hold it down.
I regretted it for a second, but really i'm not ever going to get rid of the thing so it's my advice to just make the correct modifications according to what YOU want, rather than to try to keep it completely stock and just suffer..

[Showdown]

Try brad point drill bits.

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Dr...rad_Point.html