Innotation problem?

[FenderJazzFan]

Hi,

I believe I may have an innotation problem with my American Deluxe Precision. The problem is that my 13th fret sounds like the 12th should. I.e. 13th sounds the same as open, so the 12th must be very flat. :S

Can you help, I am worried, Should I take the strings off now?

FJF

EDIT: Now the bass is in the house the innotation seems spot on. I.e. The 12th fret sounds like open and everything is back to normal :S.

Could this be due to changes in humidity between the Car and my house?

[AmadeusXeno]

Humidity and temperature will have an affect on the neck which in turn has an affect on your intonation. Hope this helps.

[testing1two]

Read the setup sticky and pay special attention to the section on checking your neck relief. Then check your neck relief at home and when you take the bass out. Most necks are pretty stable and only move under severe climate changes (like seasonal changes) but it could be that your neck is moving more than usual and requires a small truss rod adjustment.

[FenderJazzFan]

Bass has finally settled down, with the G spot on, the D fairly close and the E and A are about half a semi tone out. To adjust it, I was thinking moving the saddles back. Would this be the best course of action, or do I have to mess about with the truss rod. Also adjusting saddle distance won't affect my action or create any fret buzz will it?

Sorry for the questions, I am a DIY newbie.


FJF

[type C basses]

Originally Posted by FenderJazzFan

Bass has finally settled down, with the G spot on, the D fairly close and the E and A are about half a semi tone out. To adjust it, I was thinking moving the saddles back. Would this be the best course of action, or do I have to mess about with the truss rod. Also adjusting saddle distance won't affect my action or create any fret buzz will it?

Sorry for the questions, I am a DIY newbie.


FJF

This seems like a good first move. If it does create action problems (would be very minor) they can be corrected with subsequent bridge adjustments. Your other option is to take it to a setup guy or luthier. It shouldn't cost too much, but it should play better (anywhere from just a little bit to astronomically better).

[ehque]

You adjust intonation with the saddle intonations screws (the long ones mounted parallel to the strings in most bridges) - assuming the relief and action is already optimum, adjust these screws will not alter your relief and intonation.

Before setting my intonation, though, I ALWAYS check if my relief and my action is ok. It only takes a few seconds.

[FenderJazzFan]

ok, just tried the adjustment, the results are confusing.

I loosened and tightened the screws at the end of the bridge for the E / A strings. However I am sure the saddles didn't actually move. Is the movement meant to be very very very small? If it makes any difference, the strings go through the body as opposed to just stopping at the end of the bridge. :/

However, just unscrewing them and screwing them up seemed to have reduced the issue a litttle bit, but I'm certain the saddles didn't move even with the screw's considerably far out.

Thanks

FJF

Edit: Action is still perfect, and relief looks fine, but I didn't measure it.

[Zooberwerx]

Originally Posted by FenderJazzFan

ok, just tried the adjustment, the results are confusing.

I loosened and tightened the screws at the end of the bridge for the E / A strings. However I am sure the saddles didn't actually move. Is the movement meant to be very very very small? If it makes any difference, the strings go through the body as opposed to just stopping at the end of the bridge. :/

However, just unscrewing them and screwing them up seemed to have reduced the issue a litttle bit, but I'm certain the saddles didn't move even with the screw's considerably far out.

Thanks

FJF

Edit: Action is still perfect, and relief looks fine, but I didn't measure it.

When "loosening" the intonation screw (back of bridge), you may have to nudge the saddles forward with your fingertips. This, of course will sharpen the string response. Not much of an issue when tightening (moving saddles backwards / flattening).

Either way, once you're close to the target, remember to set your witness points by pressing on the string firmly on the leading edge of the bridge saddle.

Riis

[FenderJazzFan]

Fixed

What are witness points?

[Supertanker]

Originally Posted by FenderJazzFan

Fixed

What are witness points?

The witness point is the place where the strings contact the bridge (sometimes called a roller or saddle).

A good witness point is essential to clear tone, sustain and intonation.

If your bass has the original bridge you (generally) should not have any issues with your witness points...

[Zooberwerx]

Originally Posted by FenderJazzFan

Fixed

What are witness points?

"Fixed" as the suggestion actually worked? Hey, I get it right once in a while.

I can't improve upon what SuperTanker said other than to add you also need to set your witness points at the nut. Failure to do so may result in wonky intonation & action.

Riis

[Andyman001]

I usually loosen the string when adjusting intonation, de-tune, adjust saddle, re-tune, press down on string just in front of the saddle (set witness point), tune again, check intonation, replete.
de tuning allows free movement of the saddle
Andy

[ehque]

Originally Posted by Andyman001

I usually loosen the string when adjusting intonation, de-tune, adjust saddle, re-tune, press down on string just in front of the saddle (set witness point), tune again, check intonation, replete.
de tuning allows free movement of the saddle
Andy

+1. The saddles dont move much when adjusted, but it's likely they won't move at all - or you'll prematurely wear out the screw or baseplate - if you adjust your intonation without first loosening your strings.

[Supertanker]

Originally Posted by ehque

+1. The saddles dont move much when adjusted, but it's likely they won't move at all - or you'll prematurely wear out the screw or baseplate - if you adjust your intonation without first loosening your strings.

+2...

Loosen the strings, it will be much easier...

[gnjpowell]

Generally speaking, neither neck relief nor truss-rod adjustments are intended to adjust intonation, they are to adjust the action ie string height. Intonation is adjusted by shortening or lengthening the string by moving the saddle closer to or farther away from the nut. Tune one open string perfectly or with harmonics at the 12th fret. Then fret that string at the 12th fret. If it's sharp at the 12th fret that string is too short, if it's flat that string to too long. Move the saddle to correct the pitch. Repeat again and again till you get it right. Repeat with all remaining strings. Go back and re-check and re-tune them all again again till perfect. String affect intonation. If you are thinking about new strings or you know yours are old, replace the strings before you adjust the intonation.

[T-MOST]

Setting the intonation isn't hard to do. it does take some patience, a tuner and whatever tool your bridge saddles use but it's definately something you can do yourself.