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11-26-2010, 04:15 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Rockville MD | | | Install Micro-Tilt Instead of a Shim?
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Would it be advisable to install a micro-tilt system in the neck pocket of a bass as an alternative to a shim? I know it involves drilling so I wouldn't do it to a highly collectible instrument, but say to an SX, Squier, or MIM Fender -- would this make sense?
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11-26-2010, 04:19 PM
|  | I took the one less traveled by | | Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Reims, Champagne, France | | | Sure it can be done but why?
It's not like you had to adjust neck angle every other day. |
11-26-2010, 04:21 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Rockville MD | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Jazz Ad  Sure it can be done but why?
It's not like you had to adjust neck angle every other day. | It would be more variable and precise than a business-card shim, no? This guy did it.
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Last edited by selowitch : 11-26-2010 at 04:24 PM.
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11-26-2010, 04:59 PM
| | I took the one less traveled by | | Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Reims, Champagne, France | | | Shiming a neck doesn't require much precision or many variations.
As long as you get into the range of the height adjustment of the bridge, you're good enough.
And you may have to do it 2, maybe 3 times in the whole lifetime of the bass. |
11-26-2010, 05:20 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Rockville MD | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Jazz Ad Shiming a neck doesn't require much precision or many variations.
As long as you get into the range of the height adjustment of the bridge, you're good enough.
And you may have to do it 2, maybe 3 times in the whole lifetime of the bass. | That being the case, it seems drilling into the body of your instrument is a little extreme, so probably not worth it.
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11-26-2010, 05:39 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Bremen, Germany | | | I would rather make a full tapered shim, that way you won't get the hump at the end of the neck that is usually is caused by using a micro-tilt.
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11-26-2010, 05:52 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Rockville MD | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Hellbastard I would rather make a full tapered shim, that way you won't get the hump at the end of the neck that is usually is caused by using a micro-tilt. | What's a fully tapered shim, and can you show me how to make one?
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11-27-2010, 11:44 AM
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I setup & repair guitars & basses | | Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Kensington, Ca | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Hellbastard I would rather make a full tapered shim, that way you won't get the hump at the end of the neck that is usually is caused by using a micro-tilt. | No, it's not.
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11-27-2010, 11:48 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Rockville MD | | Quote:
Originally Posted by JLS No, it's not. | I'd still like to know what a fully tapered shim is and why the micro-tilt isn't responsible for the hump.
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11-27-2010, 11:50 AM
| | Registered User
I setup & repair guitars & basses | | Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Kensington, Ca | | Quote:
Originally Posted by selowitch Would it be advisable to install a micro-tilt system in the neck pocket of a bass as an alternative to a shim? I know it involves drilling so I wouldn't do it to a highly collectible instrument, but say to an SX, Squier, or MIM Fender -- would this make sense? | Enormous waste of time & money. I could *possibly* see it as being a plus with a fretless, because of their touchiness in re: mwah/mwah not, but otherwise, not.
That said, I appreciate them when I'm doing setups on instrument that have them, as part of the action adjusting process. Again, though, neck angle changes should be a once-in-a-blue-moon event.
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11-27-2010, 11:54 AM
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I setup & repair guitars & basses | | Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Kensington, Ca | | Quote:
Originally Posted by selowitch I'd still like to know what a fully tapered shim is and why the micro-tilt isn't responsible for the hump. | Search "tapered shim" in the forums, there have been many discussions.
If the "hump" is a "ski jump", there would be no accounting for the
regrettably many instruments that develop them, sans a microtilt adjustment.
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11-27-2010, 11:54 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Rockville MD | | Quote:
Originally Posted by JLS Enormous waste of time & money. I could *possibly* see it as being a plus with a fretless, because of their touchiness in re: mwah/mwah not, but otherwise, not.
That said, I appreciate them when I'm doing setups on instrument that have them, as part of the action adjusting process. Again, though, neck angle changes should be a once-in-a-blue-moon event. | Very well. Trimmed business card, here we come! Thanks.
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11-27-2010, 11:58 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Virginia Beach, VA | | | Why are you shimming the neck?
Riis
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11-27-2010, 12:00 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Rockville MD | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Zooberwerx Why are you shimming the neck?
Riis | Well, now that I've added a BAII bridge I'm not able to get the action as low as I would like no matter what I do to the truss rod.
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Last edited by selowitch : 11-27-2010 at 12:03 PM.
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11-27-2010, 12:11 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Virginia Beach, VA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by selowitch Well, now that I've added a BAII bridge I'm not able to get the action as low as I would like no matter what I do to the truss rod. | Okay, "bridge saddles won't go as low as I like" is a good answer. Manipulation of the truss rod to compensate for too-high string height is not necessarily a good idea. Truss rods are for setting neck relief and should be addressed / set before turning your attention to the bridge saddles.
Riis
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11-27-2010, 12:58 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Rockville MD | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Zooberwerx Okay, "bridge saddles won't go as low as I like" is a good answer. Manipulation of the truss rod to compensate for too-high string height is not necessarily a good idea. Truss rods are for setting neck relief and should be addressed / set before turning your attention to the bridge saddles.
Riis | Yes, you're right, of course. It seems to me (I'm a noob) that certain bridges like the Gotoh 201 and BA series tend to have saddles that don't go quite low enough for some basses and thus a neck shim might be advisable.
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