intonation '51 p bass

netbot · #1 11-27-2007, 04:32 AM

hello fellow tb'ers!

i'm G.A.S.sing a '51 p bass RI and i'm a little bit concerned about the bridge. i'm wondering how to get a good intonation on this bass or if it's obsolete anyway. if i would buy it i don't want to change the bridge. it looks also a bit weak here in this picture: http://namm.harmony-central.com/WNAM...s-burst-lg.jpg

what do you think?

thank you in advance!
netbot

mutedeity · #2 11-27-2007, 04:59 AM

I was talking to someone about that a few months ago. I think that "near enough is good enough" is the best way to go with approaching the intonation on those things. Try and set the intonation as close as possible but realise that accurate intonation on all four strings is nearly impossible.

Delberthot · #3 11-27-2007, 08:07 PM

You could either get a Fender 4 saddle one or a Wilkinson 2 saddle ones. it has the ability to angle the saddles to give you better intonation whilst looking authentic

PilbaraBass · #4 11-27-2007, 08:36 PM

If you're keeping the bridge, then just split the difference between the two strings on each saddle. Intonation becomes more critical as you begin to play up the fretboard. If you keep 90% of your playing between the nut and say the 9th fret, then split the difference.

If you play more up towards the bridge, then you're probably playing the wrong instrument in the first place...

Personally, I'd go with a 4-saddle bridge...Fender-style, but 4-saddle......

mutedeity · #5 11-29-2007, 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Delberthot

You could either get a Fender 4 saddle one or a Wilkinson 2 saddle ones. it has the ability to angle the saddles to give you better intonation whilst looking authentic

You could do that. On the other hand if this bass is unmodified with all of its original parts, the last thing you want to do from the point of view of the value of it is retrofit anything on it. Changing the bridge could mean the difference of thousands of dollars.

PilbaraBass · #6 11-29-2007, 04:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mutedeity

You could do that. On the other hand if this bass is unmodified with all of its original parts, the last thing you want to do from the point of view of the value of it is retrofit anything on it. Changing the bridge could mean the difference of thousands of dollars.

it is a '51 P bass RI ("RI" stands for Re Issue)...it's not worth thousands of dollars...

if it were an original '51 P, we'd be CRAZY to suggest what we did

if you were to change the bridge on a true vintage instrument, you would always make sure that it was a "drop in" (same screw holes), and that you held onto the original equipment.

GlennW · #7 11-30-2007, 07:16 AM

Wilkinson or somebody makes compensated (angled) saddles for those.

dvh · #8 11-30-2007, 07:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PilbaraBass

If you're keeping the bridge, then just split the difference between the two strings on each saddle. Intonation becomes more critical as you begin to play up the fretboard. If you keep 90% of your playing between the nut and say the 9th fret, then split the difference.

This is what I do. In any jam/gigging situation this is more than adequate I have also recored with this bass and did a piece noodling around the 10th -12th frets. No problem.

At times I think I will replace the stock bridge with one of the Wilkinson ones but I'm not convinced it's really all that necessary.

I love this bass. The feel and tone can't be beat, for me.

John Wentzien · #9 11-30-2007, 07:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GlennW

Wilkinson or somebody makes compensated (angled) saddles for those.

http://www.graphtech.com/
they will fit without mods..

Delberthot · #10 11-30-2007, 08:09 AM

Both bridges I mentioned require no modification

Pilgrim · #11 11-30-2007, 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GlennW

Wilkinson or somebody makes compensated (angled) saddles for those.

There's your answer, and another poster gave you the URL.

Don't worry much about it - thousands of musicians have used these basses with the two saddle bridge. In terms of effect on your performance sound, absolute perfect intonation runs a LONG way behind your technique. Get the angled saddles and don't worry about it.

GlennW · #12 11-30-2007, 10:22 AM

I believe Main Sale has one with the brass compensated saddles - you might want to PM him and see what they are. They're pretty much the same approach as the Tele (guitar) compensated saddles.

netbot · #13 11-30-2007, 10:23 AM

thank you for so many answers! this will help me out!
so, nothing is now stopping me (except money) to get a nice sunburst one!

cheers
netbot

Pilgrim · #14 11-30-2007, 10:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by netbot

so, nothing is now stopping me (except money) to get a nice sunburst one!

Ain't it always so????

netbot · #15 11-30-2007, 11:27 AM

mutedeity · #16 12-01-2007, 02:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PilbaraBass

it is a '51 P bass RI ("RI" stands for Re Issue)...it's not worth thousands of dollars...

if it were an original '51 P, we'd be CRAZY to suggest what we did

if you were to change the bridge on a true vintage instrument, you would always make sure that it was a "drop in" (same screw holes), and that you held onto the original equipment.

Oh, I missed that small point. In that case retrofit away.

Jeb · #17 12-01-2007, 08:20 PM

The stock SCPB bridge can be intonated just fine. A little finesse goes a long way with this design. You don't have to modify anything - its a great bass as is. Simple and deliciously practical! Truly a "players" instrument for a whole lot of reasons.

And I'll echo Pilgrim regarding the technique comment.