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07-30-2008, 10:09 PM
| | Registered User Lead Designer, Zeibek Boutique Pedals | | Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Hüstın, TX | | | Intonation question / Bridge relocation
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I recently got an SX LTD jazz bass and replaced the neck. It has one of those quick release bridges. It seemed OK initially, but I find it a little on the flimsy side a couple of days later.
Anyways, when I finally got to the point where I setup the bass, I noticed the 12th fret frequencies were all way sharper. I pulled the saddles all the way back, this time my accurate Korg rack tuner showed them around +20 - +30 cents sharper. Only the G string is a little closer, around 10 cents area. So my question is, if I pull out the bridge and mount it around half inches back, would I be able to set the intonation properly? In theory, it looks like I would, but it does not hurt to ask. Or do you have any other less dramatic suggestions?
Thanks in advance!
Edit: I am also trying to tune the bass half step down.
Last edited by musicelectronix : 07-30-2008 at 10:14 PM.
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07-31-2008, 01:13 AM
| | Registered User Lead Designer, Zeibek Boutique Pedals | | Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Hüstın, TX | | No takers? Seriously?  | 
07-31-2008, 01:19 AM
|  | OVNIFX EXAR pedals rep for North & Central America | | Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: PDX, OR | | | Did the old neck have one or two more frets than the new one? That would account for the discrepancy re: the bridge. I'd say yes moving the bridge would work, and since it's an SX there no real harm in drilling a couple more holes. Another option would be to see if you can find a different bridge which has saddles located in a way that might correlate better with the new neck. If it was a spendier bass I might council getting a different neck that fits the existing bridge placement. | 
07-31-2008, 01:39 AM
| | Registered User Lead Designer, Zeibek Boutique Pedals | | Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Hüstın, TX | | Actually the necks are exactly the same scale-wise and except one has rosewood fretboard and the other has maple  The extra neck I ordered along with the bass has almost P profile, but it is advertised as jazz neck. I am pretty sure this is as irrelavent as it gets though
I think I am gonna move the bridge, there is at least 3/4" clearance. I thought I needed an active bass for trying out stuff (didn't have any friends to borrow an active bass here in TX) and didn't want to pay more since I am not even gonna play it other than testing stuff  . The previous holes will be covered by the bridge, so I am not worried about it. Worst comes to worst, I will put an ashtray there  | 
07-31-2008, 06:32 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Western WA | | | Move the bridge.
I've seen bridges on far more expensive basses that were not in the correct place for intonation. | 
07-31-2008, 07:48 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: League City, Tx | | | The saddles should measure 17" form the crown of your 12th fret plus adjustment to make it longer. If you can't get over 17" in adjustment, you wont be able to intonate a 34" scale bass correctly.
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07-31-2008, 10:35 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: May 2001 Location: St. Louis, MO USA | | | Sounds like the necks, while the same scale, are not the same size. Remember that the scale is measured from nut to bridge. So, one bass might have a shorter neck and a longer body and another a longer neck and shorter body, but both are same scale. Or, as you have discovered, slightly different neck designs might require a different bridge placement.
I would move the bridge. Remove the strings and set all the saddles at the mid point. The bridge should be positioned so that the witness point of the saddle is 34" from the leading edge of the nut, or as mentioned above 17" from the crown of the 12th fret.
I would definitely measure it out and make sure there is enough space between the new holes and old holes to get a good tight fit. Otherwise, fill the old holes first with epoxy.
I also suggest taping the bridge with masking tape EXACTLY where you want it. Measuring, re-measuring and then measuring again. Then mark through the screw holes with a pencil and pre-drill pilot holes for the screws. If you get it off-angle, it will drive you nuts. | 
07-31-2008, 01:36 PM
| | Registered User Lead Designer, Zeibek Boutique Pedals | | Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Hüstın, TX | | | Wow, thanks guys! I will follow the directions mentioned here.
The necks are exactly the same (other than the thickness), I even put on the old neck and the problem remained. The bridge design is somewhat faulty (you can not pull the saddles back as far as the standard ones) as well as its location. I measured a hair less than 17" from crown to the saddles, when the saddles are pulled all the way back. Last night, I also compared the bridge location with a MIA Fender and it was closer to the neck as if the body is from a short scale bass.
I screwed off the bridge and saw that there were a set of another 6 holes and linings of another bridge under it. This concludes there was another bridge on the bass and the screw allignment suggests it was one of those Fender copy bridges can be found on chinese Fender copies. If I move the bridge, the top 2 screw holes will be exposed. Kurt suggested that I return the bass, but I already put too much work in it. I think I will just get an ashtray to cover the bridge and the extra holes.
Again, thank you for all the help! | 
07-31-2008, 01:49 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Highway 61 | | | Usually 18" from the 12th fret to the bridge mounting holes will get you there. That's for a stock Fender style bridge.
You could check your current distance for reference. | | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | |
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