Intonation on RIC 4003

Alex E · #1 06-12-2006, 04:34 PM

I checked to see if anyone had previously posted on this subject and couldn't find anything.

My 4003's neck is very straight and problem-free. The fretted notes are just a bit sharp though, so I need to lengthen the strings at the saddle.

Has anyone done that to their 4003 before? Please advise if you have. Obviously you loosen the string tension on each string prior to adjustments, but how then do you adjust? Do you have to remove the saddle cover? That's my biggest question.

FaithNoMan · #2 06-12-2006, 07:14 PM

www.rickresource.com - go into the "Basses" section, and go to this thread:

"4001 bridge saddle questions...."

I know you have a 4003, but this thread will probably help you... I've never done the intonation, but it looks like loosening your strings may be the best bet(it's safer that way, and you can tighten them and keep checking how much closer you are).

- also, the pressure you put on a string will make it sharp or flat sometimes, so keep that in mind also - and have a tuner handy at all times!

Alvaro Martín Gómez A. · #3 06-12-2006, 11:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alex E

Do you have to remove the saddle cover? That's my biggest question.

You don't need to remove anything. Just make sure you have one of these at hand:

pkr2 · #4 06-12-2006, 11:52 PM

www.rickenbacker.com/manual.pdf

This PDF covers it pretty well.

It doesn't mention it in the manual, but if you have changed the gauge of the strings you may possibly not have enough range to get it to come into adjustment. The saddles can be reversed to gain a little additional range if you need to.

Metal Mitch · #5 07-02-2006, 08:31 PM

I'm having problems with mine too, and I know how to adjust it. My neck is virtually straight - relief measures .005 on the bass side and .004 on the treble side.

With intonation adjusted at the 12th fret, the intonation is fine up through the 9th fret. Then goes completely out the window any higher on the neck.

I don't think there's any solution except to replace the Fred Flintstone teeter-totter bridge with a Hipshot.

didier · #6 07-05-2006, 02:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Metal Mitch

I'm having problems with mine too, and I know how to adjust it. My neck is virtually straight - relief measures .005 on the bass side and .004 on the treble side.

With intonation adjusted at the 12th fret, the intonation is fine up through the 9th fret. Then goes completely out the window any higher on the neck.

I don't think there's any solution except to replace the Fred Flintstone teeter-totter bridge with a Hipshot.

wait, how is is adjusted at the 12th fret, yet goes out above the 9th? Is your action really high, or you're frettign REALLY hard or bending the string when fretting?

Also, I don't understand how changing the bridge will make a difference. Not trying to be a smarty, really, I am just confused... Wouldn't the hipshot saddle point need to be at the same place as original to set the intonation correctly at the 12th, thus the same problem?

Could it be your strings?

Metal Mitch · #7 07-05-2006, 04:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by didier

wait, how is is adjusted at the 12th fret, yet goes out above the 9th? Is your action really high, or you're frettign REALLY hard or bending the string when fretting?

Also, I don't understand how changing the bridge will make a difference. Not trying to be a smarty, really, I am just confused... Wouldn't the hipshot saddle point need to be at the same place as original to set the intonation correctly at the 12th, thus the same problem?

Could it be your strings?

A fair enough reply, I don't think you're trying to be a smartash.

My action is high enough that the bridge rocks back and forth every time I loosen the strings to adjust the intonation. Getting it back to the same position every time I retension the strings is FAR from an exact science. That's why ANY other bridge would be an improvement. It won't rock back and forth, it'll stay level.

Espidog · #8 07-07-2006, 08:28 AM

The Ric 4000 series bridge is very pretty to look at, but possibly one of the daftest designs ever produced. Attempting to adjust a saddle without first slackening the relevant string is extremely difficult, especially with roundwound strings, as the windings tend to catch on the edges of the saddle groove, causing it to jam. It's also potentially damaging: if you don't slacken off during adjustment, and try to force the saddle into moving, you risk mashing up the crosshead of the adjustment screw - which is damned difficult to get at cleanly anyway!

Should you find that a particular saddle just won't go back far enough for your needs, here's a tip. Remove the saddle bar entirely and look underneath. You'll see four tiny springs on the adjustment screws. They're supposed to provide forward pressure on the saddles but, to be frank, they're pretty ineffectual. You can safely remove any of them if needed to enable that final bit of travel from the screw.

Rickenbacker keep telling us that they'll soon be releasing a new, re-designed bridge for the 4000 series basses. They've been saying this for a long time now. We're still waiting....

Meanwhile, the Hipshot replacement bridge is an excellent design, providing total freedom of adjustment in all directions without having to slacken off.