Intonation time

[fetfet]

How long does intonation usually take?

I've spent the last 5 hours intonating my bass, and will probably spend another 2-3 hours intonating it. Is it about time that I give up? I'm using a Korg Chromatic tuner, and a Planet Waves Custom cable. Should I give in and take it to a shop where they can do it professionally?

[VroomVroom]

How fresh is the battery in your tuner? How high is the volume on the bass? If the answers are anything but "new" and "10, baby" I'd give that a shot to see if the accuracy improves. Fair to assume the bass is set up with fresh strings?

[Jazz Ad]

On a Fender style instrument, it takes me about 10 minutes.
It can be a bit longer depending on the design of the bridge.
It's no rocket science, really.

[fetfet]

Originally Posted by VroomVroom

How fresh is the battery in your tuner? How high is the volume on the bass? If the answers are anything but "new" and "10, baby" I'd give that a shot to see if the accuracy improves. Fair to assume the bass is set up with fresh strings?

I thought that too, but I'm pretty sure the batteries are new, and the volumes are all at 10. And new strings are on the bass. 2 days old, plenty stretched.

[fetfet]

It's a Lakland Bridge, and it's thru-bridge.

[VroomVroom]

My next guess would be that your adjustments aren't fine enough. However much you're turning the screws, cut that in half (i.e. from 1/4 turn to 1/8).

You could also try another cable, just to rule out this one.

[fetfet]

Anothe reason it's hard to do intonation is after i pluck the fretted note, it goes sharp then flat. Which one should I adjust for?

Edit: rolled the tone off my bass, and was done in 10 minutes.

[JTE]

Ah, the pitch is wandering after you pluck it! First, set the PUP so you're reading only one PUP, and make sure your PUPs aren't too close to the strings. And make sure the strings are on the bass neatly, the nut slots are clean, and the strings are in good shape. Sometimes new strings aren't good, no matter the brand. And if they've been twisted while being installed, they'll vibrate in weird ways.

Then pluck the open string with normal pressure and let it settle in*. Compare that pitch (or the 12th fret harmonic) with the fretted note. If the fretted note is sharp, then you need to lengthen the string by tightening the screw. If the fretted note is flat, the string is too long and you need to shorten it by loosening the screw. I always nudge the saddle too so it moves up towards the nut.

It's a lot easier and more accurate if you hold the bass in playing position while you do this too.

jte

[fetfet]

Originally Posted by JTE

Ah, the pitch is wandering after you pluck it! First, set the PUP so you're reading only one PUP, and make sure your PUPs aren't too close to the strings. And make sure the strings are on the bass neatly, the nut slots are clean, and the strings are in good shape. Sometimes new strings aren't good, no matter the brand. And if they've been twisted while being installed, they'll vibrate in weird ways.

Then pluck the open string with normal pressure and let it settle in*. Compare that pitch (or the 12th fret harmonic) with the fretted note. If the fretted note is sharp, then you need to lengthen the string by tightening the screw. If the fretted note is flat, the string is too long and you need to shorten it by loosening the screw. I always nudge the saddle too so it moves up towards the nut.

It's a lot easier and more accurate if you hold the bass in playing position while you do this too.

jte

Cool, this'll be very helpful next time I change strings.

[DaveCustomMade]

Okay, if I may be allowed to piggie back on this thread. . . .

My bass, while tuned at open, . . . at the 12th fret, it is slightly sharp. Do I need to move the bridge away from the nut?

[Mushroo]

Originally Posted by DaveCustomMade

Okay, if I may be allowed to piggie back on this thread. . . .

My bass, while tuned at open, . . . at the 12th fret, it is slightly sharp. Do I need to move the bridge away from the nut?

Yes.
Well, not the whole bridge, just the bridge saddles--that's why they are adjustable!
Check the sticky at the top of the setup forum if you need instructions on setting your intonation.

[SBassman]

Originally Posted by DaveCustomMade

Okay, if I may be allowed to piggie back on this thread. . . .

My bass, while tuned at open, . . . at the 12th fret, it is slightly sharp. Do I need to move the bridge away from the nut?

Yes.
http://garywillis.com/pages/bass/bas...tonation2.html

OP: I think you need to start over with a new/better tuner.
If:
- You have a tuner that reads a bass well
- Your strings are relatively fresh and super well stretched
- You're making the changes a Little at a time
you should be able to complete a good intonation setup
in just a few minutes.

[Mushroo]

Originally Posted by fetfet

Anothe reason it's hard to do intonation is after i pluck the fretted note, it goes sharp then flat. Which one should I adjust for?

Edit: rolled the tone off my bass, and was done in 10 minutes.

Glad you are happy with your intonation now!
I have always intonated so that the note sustains in tune, and goes a little sharp right when I pluck it. As opposed to being briefly in tune, then sustaining flat. Curious to hear if others do the same.

[Dogbertday]

the harder you pluck it the sharper it will initially go.... it's the nature of string instruments.

pick up a guitar sometime and grab an open E major chord.... first strum nice and soft then give a few hard downbeats and you'll hear what I mean, the guitar seems to exagerate it

[iandmcelroy]

APPENDIX B Setting Guitar/Bass Intonation

After deciding on string gauge, string height setting (nut and bridge), and neck relief—factors that affect guitar or bass intonation considerably—the individual string lengths must be adjusted.

• Lower the pickups away from the strings to avoid "doubling" and electromagnetic pull.

• Lay the instrument flat on a bench to adjust it, but always check the intonation with the instrument in the playing position as the readings will be visibly (and later audibly) different. You should always aim to freeze or "cage" the image of the VS-II strobe display; the less overall movement up or down, the more accurate the results.

• Always slacken the string while adjusting the saddle position. Failing to do so may damage the string, the saddle, or in some cases, even the neck!

• Apply some graphite to the nut slots. This helps prevent the string from binding. As previously stated, "action" is another important factor influencing correct fretting (intonation). The higher the action, the further the string must be depressed to contact the fret. As this happens, greater pressure is exerted on the string resulting in an increase in pitch. A high action may cause sharp notes; a low action may cause fret buzz. Action adjustments can be made at the nut, saddle, or in extreme cases, by resetting the neck. (On a banjo, coordinator rods or dowel sticks can be adjusted for proper action.) A common method for setting intonation is to compare the 12th fret (pressed) and 12th fret flageolet (harmonic):

• If the fretted note is flat compared to the flageolet note, move the bridge saddle forward to shorten the string.

• If the fretted note is sharp compared to the flageolet note, move the bridge saddle back to lengthen the string.

• Adjust until both fretted note and and flageolet are identical in pitch.

While this is a common technique, it is not always the most satisfactory. Another popular alternative is to adjust each string so that it is in tune at two points an octave apart from each other on the fretboard with a strobe tuner. Using the 5th and 17th fret as an example:


**** On string instruments, players can cause a string to vibrate only in sections by touching it lightly at the appropriate point; this can produce a note of a cool, silvery quality (sometimes called ‘flageolet notes’). These are ‘natural harmonics’, based on the open string.