Just defretted a cheap bass

Journey55 · #1 10-09-2011, 10:05 AM

I just took the frets off my bass (unfortunately before I looked on here for how to do it) and now there's little splinters around the fret spaces, so I have a few questions; how do I get rid of the splinters, how do I get it so the lines are filled in so they're silver (so it's lined), and what is the best thing to cover the bass with/how do I do that? (I'm relatively new to this so step-by-step would be awesome) Sorry if this seems really simple to you guys, but any help is appreciated

96tbird · #2 10-09-2011, 10:42 AM

Get some fine grit sand paper, wrap it around something like a hacksaw blade and sand the slots lightly.

Get some weather proof wood filler and mix in silver or grey paint if that's the color you want. Grey auto body filler will work well too. You might consider a contrasting wood color too. Either wood veneer or wood filler tinted an appropriate color.

Did you keep the chips? You can glue them back with super glue. If not, get some rosewood, maple or whatever the board is and sand it to make sawdust, pack it in the chip voids (after you have filled the fret slots) and drip superglue on it. Sand it down and it will be invisible from a foot away.

Marine epoxy or plain marine varnish works well for finish, you can even use ca glue (superglue) Google ca fretboard and you'll find an article on it, I think by Dan Earlwine.

Journey55 · #3 10-09-2011, 11:06 AM

For the epoxy, is it just the resin or both parts? and just one coat? Sorry for all the questions though

96tbird · #4 10-09-2011, 11:10 AM

Marine epoxy VARNISH, it's two part and very durable. But plain brush on marine varnish works too, I think that's what Jaco did. The epoxies (finishing epoxy, not epoxy glue) are usually poured on by luthiers making a thick glossy board. Google around and you'll find lots of info on different ways to do the job.

Journey55 · #5 10-09-2011, 12:01 PM

would this work for the wood filler; Color Putty® Filler Wood - Wood Putty / Dough - Ace Hardware

henry2513 · #6 10-09-2011, 12:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Journey55

would this work for the wood filler; Color Putty® Filler Wood - Wood Putty / Dough - Ace Hardware

buy some veneer and put it in the slots instead.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=115gvPzHMqw

96tbird · #7 10-09-2011, 01:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Journey55

A screwdriver and some pliers (some frets were difficult so I used a blowdrier to make them come out easier).

and I actually just decided to make it the same color as the wood

Yes, so it won't be a perfect match though. What kind of wood is the neck?

Other options are saddle dye black for an ebony look, any color fret marks you want. The sky's the limit.

202dy · #8 10-09-2011, 01:28 PM

Courtesy, gentlemen, is the watchword on H,S,&T.

The central idea in choosing material for filling the kerf on a de-nuded fingerboard is to match or exceed the density and strength of the existing wood. This insures against creating a problem neck.

If you think about it, the kerfs (fret slots) are no different than the kerfed binding installed on the insides of acoustic guitars. Removing the material makes the wood "bendable." The same is true with a fingerboard. If the material is too soft the resistance to bending under string load is compromised. Depending on the individual neck and fingerboard woods it may be a little or a lot.

Wood fillers do not have the strength to do the job well because the compress under load. Even a mix of sawdust and glue does not do the job well. The original "epoxy fret job" consisted of using a file or router to widen the kerfs so that the frets would press in under finger pressure after epoxy filled the slot. This fell out of favor three decades ago because the necks could no longer support the load without putting undue stress on the truss rod. The reason is that epoxy is too elastic, it compresses just like wood filler. The one thing in its favor was that it did not shrink. Most wood fillers do shrink, exacerbating the problem. Why take the chance of having a neck that needs constant adjustment to play well?

There are discussions in both Don Teeter's and Dan Erlewine's repair manuals. Anecdotal evidence found on the interwebs to the contrary, putty or wood filler is a poor choice. The folks that have had success merely got lucky.

So what to use? Contrasting veneers or binding work well if visible lines are desired. Choosing a veneer of the same wood is the absolute best way to camouflage the slots. As far as widening slots nut files, gauged saws, or Dremel is the way to go.

Pilgrim · #9 10-09-2011, 01:42 PM

Listen to 202dy. He is showing extreme patience and class in spending the time to share information which may help the OP salvage his own hack job.

I second the recommendation to use solid material rather than a filler or paste.

FreakyFruit · #10 10-09-2011, 04:09 PM

Well... It is a cheap bass, so longevity is not an issue when predicting what will happen to the truss rod over time when using epoxies and putty. I think that fret removal isn't the best way to convert to fretless. CA glue works pretty good, so does everything else. It is your bass. Do with it as you see fit.

bassteban · #11 10-09-2011, 04:19 PM

LOTS of info: http://www.talkbass.com/forum/search...archid=9008019

96tbird · #12 10-09-2011, 04:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FreakyFruit

Well... It is a cheap bass, so longevity is not an issue when predicting what will happen to the truss rod over time when using epoxies and putty. I think that fret removal isn't the best way to convert to fretless. CA glue works pretty good, so does everything else. It is your bass. Do with it as you see fit.

That ca method of sealing an entire neck scares me! Lol. But many have done it. The cool part would be that it wicks deep into the pores and cells of the wood, changing it into acrylic/wood matrix forever. Ha the neck will be rotted away in a century and there's the fretboard!

**Joshua** · #13 10-09-2011, 05:23 PM

Yeesh. Thread cleaned. If I deleted something other than snark (or snark response) please feel free to re-post it sans snark.

And please, keep it all sans snark.

Cheers.

JLS · #14 10-10-2011, 08:50 AM

Quote:

A screwdriver and some pliers (some frets were difficult so I used a blowdrier to make them come out easier).

I've never seen these used as fret removal tools--did you see them in a video?

(Is this okay to ask, moderators?)

bjabass · #15 10-10-2011, 09:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JLS

I've never seen these used as fret removal tools--did you see them in a video?

(Is this okay to ask, moderators?)

Ain't that the legend of Jaco? Ripped em out with pliers?

Just sayin....

202dy · #16 10-10-2011, 09:50 AM

Maybe. When he did it computers still used vacuum tubes and filled entire rooms. Technology has changed a mite since then. We have better tools and methods. It is to be guessed that a skilled tech would not have done it that way even back then.

Jaco was a great player. His importance to music in general and the bass guitar specifically cannot be overstated. He was not a repair tech.

96tbird · #17 10-10-2011, 10:11 AM

I think for the OP's admittedly cheap bass, the cost of specialized tools and or the services of a luthier are out of the question. Let's take that plain fact into account. Let him play Jaco if he desires. Silk purse, pigs ear and all that.

Turnaround · #18 10-10-2011, 10:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bjabass

Ain't that the legend of Jaco? Ripped em out with pliers?

Just sayin....

Lots of lore about Jaco. I've heard he pried the frets out with a butter knife. Who really knows? And perhaps the additon of epoxy was to resurface a badly marred fingerboard.

Pilgrim · #19 10-10-2011, 12:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 96tbird

I think for the OP's admittedly cheap bass, the cost of specialized tools and or the services of a luthier are out of the question. Let's take that plain fact into account.

I respectfully disagree. A hack job is a hack job whether it's done on a $70 used bass or a $700 USA Fender.

If you don't have enough pride in your work to learn anything about what you're doing and thereby make a mess out of your work, then IMO you should not even start...because all you're doing is wasting your time and damaging the device you're working on. Also, don't ask for my help in doing it.

And if you've hacked up something and made a mess of it, don't ask me to sugar-coat my opinion of the destruction you have created.

96tbird · #20 10-10-2011, 12:26 PM

Yes this should be in the 'ask a pro' forum, not on the public forum where hobbyists like op and myself play.

http://www.stewmac.com/tsarchive/ts0091.html

Sorry about the putty, that junk is not what I thought it was. Imagine, wood filler that remains goop. Nasty.