Leaving strings off bass for extended period of time

[JBass1]

Hi,

Recently my fretboard has been getting dry, grain opening up, etc... I bought some Fret Doctor to fix this problem. I was told by Ed Boyle that depending on how dry my board is, I will need to do multiple coats, once a day or so until the grain closes up. I was wondering how long it would be okay to keep the strings off the bass. It is a Streamer Stage II, neckthrough, wenge board. I live in extreme humidity but the AC is on so my room isn't too bad except when I'm not here. My bass has traveled on planes with me and gone through all types of weather and Ive never had any problem with the neck moving. I just want to make sure it will be okay to leave strings off for a few days.

[calebbarton]

Iv never left strings off for more than a day without loosening the truss rod. But thats just me...If Ed says its ok to leave the strings off for more than a day or 2 without loosening the rod, then he can fix it if it warps

[JBass1]

since i am planning to replace strings anyway...couldn't I just loosen the strings enough to let me oil the whole board with no obstacle but keep the strings on, then tighten them up when it's sitting over night?

[steamthief]

Originally Posted by JBass1

since i am planning to replace strings anyway...couldn't I just loosen the strings enough to let me oil the whole board with no obstacle but keep the strings on, then tighten them up when it's sitting over night?

That's a good plan.

[Slowgypsy]

This is just me, but I'd (1) remove the strings so there's no chance of getting stuff on them, and (2) just give the truss rod a loosen. When you're all done just put the strings back on and tighten the truss rod the amount you loosened it. It's really not that hard, and it's what a pro would do. I suppose your method of loosening strings would work, but they'll be sooooo in the way of treating your fretboard. Just my $.02.

[john grey]

There has been some discussion re: oiling of a fret-board and your case is the perfect example of when to do it and why.
Personally I would NOT use a commercial product like that but use a neutral professional sealing oil: as that would certainly fill the grain that displays such great porosity. If it was a lighter rosewood I would use Tung oil or a raw linseed oil. The reason is that those oils penetrate very deeply and SEAL. They also are NOT to be left in their liquid condition for more than a few minutes. They are applied to the fret-board, and left there (rather heavy) for about 10-20 minutes; then wiped off and the wood wiped down and rubbed to remove excess and seal the top element of the grain. The results are fantastic. They also last years in that condition due to a "top-seal" from both those type of oil.
This also would not require you to leave the neck with no tension for an protracted period of time.

[calebbarton]

Originally Posted by john grey

There has been some discussion re: oiling of a fret-board and your case is the perfect example of when to do it and why.
Personally I would NOT use a commercial product like that but use a neutral professional sealing oil: as that would certainly fill the grain that displays such great porosity. If it was a lighter rosewood I would use Tung oil or a raw linseed oil. The reason is that those oils penetrate very deeply and SEAL. They also are NOT to be left in their liquid condition for more than a few minutes. They are applied to the fret-board, and left there (rather heavy) for about 10-20 minutes; then wiped off and the wood wiped down and rubbed to remove excess and seal the top element of the grain. The results are fantastic. They also last years in that condition due to a "top-seal" from both those type of oil.
This also would not require you to leave the neck with no tension for an protracted period of time.

Thats actually a great idea.

[JBass1]

Originally Posted by john grey

There has been some discussion re: oiling of a fret-board and your case is the perfect example of when to do it and why.
Personally I would NOT use a commercial product like that but use a neutral professional sealing oil: as that would certainly fill the grain that displays such great porosity. If it was a lighter rosewood I would use Tung oil or a raw linseed oil. The reason is that those oils penetrate very deeply and SEAL. They also are NOT to be left in their liquid condition for more than a few minutes. They are applied to the fret-board, and left there (rather heavy) for about 10-20 minutes; then wiped off and the wood wiped down and rubbed to remove excess and seal the top element of the grain. The results are fantastic. They also last years in that condition due to a "top-seal" from both those type of oil.
This also would not require you to leave the neck with no tension for an protracted period of time.

Ed Boyle who makes and sells Fret Doctor gave me a huge list of reasons why I shouldn't use tung/linseed. My board is Wenge. I already have the Fret Doctor and I've never seen one negative thing written about it so I'm just going to give it a try. I think loosening the truss rod maybe 90 degrees and removing the strings will be sufficient.