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  #1  
Old 01-10-2008, 08:42 AM
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Lemon Oil on Fingerboard

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How often do you Lemon Oil your ebony or rosewood fingerboard? I've heard a few different things on this. I've heard every time you change your strings, which can vary greatly. I've also heard every 6 months. I know that it does help regulate humidity and keeps grime off the wood, but I would like some personal opinions or experiences.
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  #2  
Old 01-10-2008, 08:46 AM
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I 've been wondering for years what makes lemon oil so special? Why would extra virgin olive oil not be a good choice for instance?
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Old 01-10-2008, 08:49 AM
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Olive Oil will get rancid and smelly.
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  #4  
Old 01-10-2008, 08:54 AM
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I've used lemon oil for years on my basses. I've also talked with Mike Tobias on this matter. I mentioned I've used Formby's lemon oil and he said that is fine. He recommended oiling the fretboard about 4 times a year with it. So that is what I do. He's the one to know what would be best for his basses, so I'm confident in his advice.
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  #5  
Old 01-10-2008, 08:59 AM
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Pure lemon oil (no paraffin) twice a year. Works great on my ebony and rosewood fingerboards and doesn't leave any residue. Helps limit fretboard shrinkage and fretwire overhang due to shrinkage when the winter sets in.

A lot of players use orange oil as well. Either way, as long as it's pure essence with no mineral oil added, it's good.
  #6  
Old 01-10-2008, 09:08 AM
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I used lemon oil for about ten years. I thought it worked great!

I did a refinish on a bass last year & used boiled linseed oil instead. I have to say, for me at least, that the boiled linseed seems to last longer.

With the lemon oil I found myself using it about 4 times a year (like mentioned above). The boiled linseed oil I applied last spring still looks fresh!

I do prefer the lemon oil smell better. The scent dissapates after a few days. The linseed smell lasts longer. It's not an offensive smell, but it is less familiar.

Either way, at least you're taking care of your instrument!
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Old 01-10-2008, 09:11 AM
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I usually do it every time I chance my strings, but then again I change my strings about once every 3 months ... so looks like I'm right on schedule.
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  #8  
Old 01-10-2008, 09:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony G View Post
I've used lemon oil for years on my basses. I've also talked with Mike Tobias on this matter. I mentioned I've used Formby's lemon oil and he said that is fine. He recommended oiling the fretboard about 4 times a year with it. So that is what I do. He's the one to know what would be best for his basses, so I'm confident in his advice.
Four times per year is about right. Maybe a little more frequently during the cold, dry winter months; a little less frequently during the warm, humid summer months...

I've used Gibson Fretboard Conditioner with good effect, but will start using lemon oil soon. Either way, the idea is to not neglect it - but don't overdo it either...

MM
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  #9  
Old 01-10-2008, 09:23 AM
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Lemon oil once a year (at the most) for my RW boards. When I had Ebony board basses, twice a year.
  #10  
Old 01-10-2008, 09:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phalex View Post
Olive Oil will get rancid and smelly.
That would fit right in w/my playing.
  #11  
Old 01-10-2008, 02:15 PM
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Oiling a fingerboard four times a year is not such a great idea.

When oil is applied to the fingerboard it works it's way into the fret slots. There is no way to avoid it. End grain is exposed in the slot and will naturally soak up a lot of oil. Over a period of years, the wood gets punky. All of this is o.k. until it is time to refret the instrument. Then the problems begin.

Since the wood is soft it will not hold a fret. It doesn't matter if the fret is hammered or pressed in place. It will not be reliably stable in the slot. In a severe case, the fret can be easily seated too low because the wood actually compressed under the fret. The tech or luthier will have to choose and execute a method to deal with the soft wood. One way is to use liquid thin super glue to wick into the end grain and harden it. It might not seem like a big deal until you see that it takes a couple of minutes per slot times the number of slots not including the amount of time it takes to set up for the procedure and clean up afterwards. Figure an hour of luthiers time at the going rate in your area. And that is if everything goes right.

There are other ways of dealing with the problem. But they are even more expensive and time consuming. This is not a path that will make you happy. No one likes a call from the shop telling them it's going to cost more money.

Go easy with the oil.

Last edited by 202dy : 01-10-2008 at 05:00 PM. Reason: spelling
  #12  
Old 01-10-2008, 04:51 PM
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Where do you guys get your lemon oil? How do you apply it? (with your fingers? a brush? do you wipe it on the frets too?)

I had no idea about this whole oil-application thing until today! I've had my rosewood P for a little over a year now, I should probably apply some oil.
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  #13  
Old 01-10-2008, 05:05 PM
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I use Roche-Thomas Premium Bore Oil. I do this every time I change strings which works out to around every 3.5 months.

I was given a bottle of this product by a local luthier. I put a few drops on a cotton ball and rub the finger board down following the grain. It doesn't saturate the board that way. It soaks in nicely and doeasn't smell like anything.

I get this stuff from a local guitar shop (Redlands Guitar) and I have also seen it in music stores that deal with wood wind and stringed instruments like violins, cellos, etc. It about $3.50 - $4.00 for a small 2 oz bottle but it lasts a long time since you use very little.
  #14  
Old 01-10-2008, 08:54 PM
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Thanks guys. I live in Texas, so the humidity changes all the time. It changes 3 times a week or 3 times a year, you never know. I guess I'll just play it by ear and be careful not to let it get dry.
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  #15  
Old 03-13-2009, 11:46 PM
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Where's the best place to pick up some lemon oil?
  #16  
Old 03-13-2009, 11:54 PM
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Check out Fret Doctor. That's the best stuff I've ever used!

http://www.beafifer.com/boredoctor.htm
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  #17  
Old 03-14-2009, 12:43 AM
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Originally Posted by king_biscuit View Post
Check out Fret Doctor. That's the best stuff I've ever used!

http://www.beafifer.com/boredoctor.htm
Interesting product. I've never (yes never) applied any sort of oil to my rosewood fretboards. I guess I'm just lucky the weather is mild enough here that I haven't ruined anything yet as a result, but I may need to try this stuff.
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  #18  
Old 03-14-2009, 08:40 AM
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I got in the habit of using pure Tung Oil, from Lee Valley. Dunno if it's better than Lemon, Orange, or Linseed but you gotta admit being able to claim you Tung your neck 'spins' better. Though Bore Oil might get the vote at Hallowe'en.

Whatever you get into, I'd recommend getting extremely good stuff. No silicone, & no off-the-shelf stuff from the supermarket.

How often? I go by visual on my rosewoods; if it looks a bit dry, it's time.

My method is to get a fairly good coat on & leave it sit for 5 to 10 minutes. I might buff the frets while waiting. Then wipe it off, wait 15 minutes, wipe down, wait another 15 minutes, & wipe down. Might do that cycle a few more times; mood-dependant.
  #19  
Old 03-14-2009, 08:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 202dy View Post
Oiling a fingerboard four times a year is not such a great idea.

When oil is applied to the fingerboard it works it's way into the fret slots. There is no way to avoid it. End grain is exposed in the slot and will naturally soak up a lot of oil. Over a period of years, the wood gets punky. All of this is o.k. until it is time to refret the instrument. Then the problems begin.

Since the wood is soft it will not hold a fret. It doesn't matter if the fret is hammered or pressed in place. It will not be reliably stable in the slot. In a severe case, the fret can be easily seated too low because the wood actually compressed under the fret. The tech or luthier will have to choose and execute a method to deal with the soft wood. One way is to use liquid thin super glue to wick into the end grain and harden it. It might not seem like a big deal until you see that it takes a couple of minutes per slot times the number of slots not including the amount of time it takes to set up for the procedure and clean up afterwards. Figure an hour of luthiers time at the going rate in your area. And that is if everything goes right.

There are other ways of dealing with the problem. But they are even more expensive and time consuming. This is not a path that will make you happy. No one likes a call from the shop telling them it's going to cost more money.

Go easy with the oil.
My understanding is that oil replaces water in the wood, so the resulting solid/liquid ratio (sorry; best terming I could derive) shouldn't change. And using oil to replace the water results in a more stable ratio.

But my understanding of things has been wrong before

202, how often &/or what guidelines do you use for oiling frequency?
  #20  
Old 03-14-2009, 09:37 AM
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Oil your wood once to 4 times per year.

Oil (lemon, orange, etc.) is intended to replace the natural oils in wood. In dry conditions, these natural oils are evaporated off from the wood with water or moisture. This underscores the importance of keeping your instrument in a humidity controlled environment. OIL SHOULD NOT BE A REPLACEMENT FOR A DRY ENVIRONMENT! A proper humidity controlled environment will greatly prevent these oils from evaporating off, and reduce the need to oil. We oil because our basses are exposed to imperfect enviroments like this does not always exist.

You don't want to over oil your wood, because there are impurities in oils that will be deposited. These impurities build over time and will give your wood a dull apearance, obscure the grain, etc. Paraffins (waxes) are especially bad. They are very common in commercial wood finishing products, look great when you first put them on, but quickly build and make your wood look prematurely dull.

It is also very important to take care 'open pore' wood basses as well. These are bodies and necks that are lightly finished, or sometimes simply stained, and are not more completely sealed by a heavy laquer. Examples are Warwick, Elrick, MTD's, etc. I've seen these bodies and necks crack, because they are not properly conditioned. They offer a great woody & organic tone, but also require a little more attention than their laquered counterparts.
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