lighter or heavier gauge for lower action?

PlanetariumERB · #1 10-15-2011, 09:27 PM

Hey guys so I was wondering for lower action is it better to use lighter or heavier gauge strings? I know there are other factors such as the tension in the particular string that is being used that can throw in some variables but I'm just wondering in a general case.

john grey · #2 10-16-2011, 03:00 PM

This is somewhat subjective in that there are some independent variables. If you play w/ a light touch; it shouldn't matter. If you play with flats, they generally sit lower anyway. In general the greater the density, the lower they would sit, however you'll have a higher weight at tuned tension.
If you throw out the variables and simply installed flats, often they sit lower. (density level). If you are talking about round wound strings, it's been my experience that (in general) the heavier strings offer an obvious greater density/weight, yet they will also need more room to move - So you could go heavier but if you plucked at the same strength level they may buzz a bit. In a matter of degree - if something physically changes in a stringed instrument; something else (playing style) will also. If your nut was cut to a 105 E and that was a "U" cut: if you went up much more than a 110 it may need to be widened. If it's bone, it could crack. If it's a "V" cut, it shouldn't matter.

seanm · #3 10-16-2011, 03:15 PM

Yes.

Really it depends on the player. Those with a light touch can get away with light strings. Those with a heavier touch need heavier strings. There is no correct answer.

JTE · #4 10-16-2011, 03:24 PM

Well, generally heavier strings vibrate in a SMALLER arc than light ones, so you don't need nearly as much clearance to prevent fret buzzing- that means a straighter neck and lower action.

John

darkstorm · #5 10-16-2011, 07:18 PM

ive gotten very low action with 35-90, 40-100 and 45-105. With bassically dead straight neck. I think it depends more on fretwork qaulity and having slight rearward tilt to neck rather then horizontal to body top. Same for guitar on which I only use 9's. Though playing control does play a part. And if note isnt fretting out, all is good. Lol.

PlanetariumERB · #6 10-16-2011, 08:22 PM

Cool thanks for the information. I've decided to fool around with new strings and gauges, so this will help me

Zooberwerx · #7 10-17-2011, 04:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PlanetariumERB

Cool thanks for the information. I've decided to fool around with new strings and gauges, so this will help me

You may also want to trial hex-core strings which, in general, tend to be a bit stiffer than round-core.

Riis

PlanetariumERB · #8 10-17-2011, 07:31 PM

So I bought a heavier set of 105 flat wounds since I always use 100 round wounds and strung my bass (ebmm sr4). I adjusted the truss rod a bit and lowered the saddles and was able to get lower action than i could with the 100s (you guys were right). However I noticed that its getting hard to adjust my truss rod (turning it to the right) and it didn't seem to want to move any more. The neck was pretty straight so it didn't really matter that it wouldn't move anymore and I didn't want to try and force it. Although the fact that it wont move to the right any more is kind of worrying me. Am I in trouble? Should I take it to a tech and have them do a pro set up?

slaphappychappy · #9 10-17-2011, 10:02 PM

Maybe it only has limited adjustment in the truss rod.

PlanetariumERB · #10 10-18-2011, 02:06 PM

Actually just turns out I just needed to help it out a little bit. I just applied a slight amount of back pressure on the neck and the truss moved easily. Now the neck is almost dead straight (left an incredibly slight amount of natural relief) and the action feels perfect.