Linseed Oil `Raw` `Boiled` or `Anti Mould`

[walterw]

it seems like all these "what oil for my boards?" threads never reach any consensus, with folks proudly reporting that they use stuff ranging from nothing at all to WD-40 to bacon grease!

it makes me think that none of it really makes any difference. as such, i've migrated over to the "leave it alone" camp, with the occasional exception of a little Fret Dr if i've had to heavily clean a board with naphtha, which i expect would strip some of the natural oils out.

(boiled LO creates an actual polymerized finish, very different from regular oils that just soak into the wood a little. no thanks there, either.)

[Growly Lytes]

Well it just proves the point about fretboard oils & conditioners.
We may never find a conclusion to this because everybody has their own way of doing things ' or' not doing things.

[Jay2U]

The need for some kind of oil depends on local conditions. If the air gets very dry, often due to very cold weather, the wood looses moisture. It becomes too dry, making it shrink. It may eventually crack by drought. A thin oil (like the cedar oil I use) soaks into the wood and restores the moisture content.
One could also place a bucket of water near the heating to keep the air humidity at the desired level.

[Turnaround]

Let's not get confused about moisture in wood. Wood is hygroscopic, that is is absorbs moisture from the surrounding air. And properly speaking the moisture it absorbs (or loses) is water.

Oil and other coatings on wood inhibit water transfers (loss or gain). They do not replace the water in the wood. Water vapour causes the cell walls to swell slightly - and water loss causes them to shrink. Oil molecules are too large to be absorbed into the cell walls so they don't affect expansion or shrinkage. So if your wood has dried out it is because it lost water. If there is a need to re-hydrate it, oil won't do it. But once properly hydrated, the oil will act as an inhibitor to slow down any further change in moisture loss or absorption.

Oil is OK as an inhibitor in this regard, but hard finishes are better - like poly, lacquer, shellac or varnishes of various kinds. They create a solid barrier to the influx or egress of water vapour.

Woods that are naturally oily (eg. rosewood) have a built-in inhibitor to water migration. But others like maple have little in-built defence. That is why maple fingerboards are usually finished with a lacquer or poly - they are more highly hygroscopic than the rosewoods and oil does not afford enough protection for them.

I hope this clears up some popular misconceptions about "rehydrating" dried out fingerboards.

[abemo]

As stated earlier, most fretboards do not need a finish, as most are naturally oily woods. Maple is an exception to this though, from what I understand. As far as cleaning is concerned, a damp, soft cloth followed by a dry, soft cloth is best (lint free, of course).

As for linseed oil, I use it for neck finishes and its wonderful, soft and smooth, with a good, natural satin feel and look. I use boiled with no additives, it comes out a bit thick so expect to use plenty of oil, and spend plenty of time rubbing it in, but the results are fantastic. Also, let it air out for a while, the smell lingers for about a month.

[DwaynieAD]

lemon oil for me

[Growly Lytes]

Its the weather here in AU at the moment, its gone crazy like & definitly effecting my basses.
Everyday is different in a big way going from really hot & sticky to cold, raining & windy in the same day.
Im just going to take it easy with the oil but will ad some because im not sure if these strange changes in the weather will maybe end up drying out the FB, twisting it or what not.
My Fender Lytes have very thin necks & one doesnt even have a finish (Deluxe Lyte) its raw Mahogany so this one really needs to be looked after.The back of the neck has an oil finish.

[Growly Lytes]

Originally Posted by 202dy

No! Naphtha. Lighter fluid. Petroleum products.

Methylated spirits is called denatured alcohol in the US. Wrong chemical.

Turpentine might work, if you want your guitar to smell like great grandma's bathroom. Test it on scrap before committing to your instrument.

Methylated spirits , Denatured Alcohol is what ive read on Tb that most people use on RW,Ebony & lots of other stuff including metal parts for cleaning.Trick is not to have puddles of it on the FB & wipe it off really good.It dries so quick that it cant hurt RW unless its on there everyday in puddles.
I had great success using D.A & as nearly all people use it on TB to clean RW FB`s, i used it too.

[202dy]

Originally Posted by Growly Lytes

Methylated spirits , Denatured Alcohol is what ive read on Tb that most people use on RW,Ebony & lots of other stuff including metal parts for cleaning.Trick is not to have puddles of it on the FB & wipe it off really good.It dries so quick that it cant hurt RW unless its on there everyday in puddles.
I had great success using D.A & as nearly all people use it on TB to clean RW FB`s, i used it too.

Yes. It can be used to clean. It is also contraindicated for some finishes as the alcohol can and will dissolve the finish quicker than it can be wiped off.

Your question (and the response) was about thinning BLO. Naphtha is the the solvent of choice. Alcohol will not work.

[walterw]

yep, alcohol will quickly wreck nitro lacquer!

naphtha is the normal stuff used to clean and de-grease, as it won't harm any finishes.

[Growly Lytes]

I been testing some 'Diggers' BLO on a few things around the house before i put it on my fingerboard & i gotta say im loving it.The more you use the more it shines.
I wouldnt put alot of coats on a fingerboard .One coat of Raw or Boiled will be fine.
It doesnt stay sticky if done correctly & the smell should go away.

[TapyTap]

You might want to check out Tried & True Wood Finishes: http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/products.htm

When I have my custom bass built, it will be finished with Tried & True Danish Oil.