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01-26-2013, 06:10 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Bethel CT | | | Loose neck screws 2 out of the 4 neck screws on my Jazz Special will not tighten. How can I safely repair this ? Will gluing tooth picks in to the neck work in this case ?
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01-26-2013, 06:15 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: D'Shaw | | | I prefer to drill out the old hole so I can and fill it with a long plug I cut from a very hard piece of maple I have for this purpose.
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01-26-2013, 07:38 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Virginia Beach, VA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamR 2 out of the 4 neck screws on my Jazz Special will not tighten. How can I safely repair this ? Will gluing tooth picks in to the neck work in this case ? | Yes, that will be perfectly fine. Just remember to introduce the screws while the glue is still wet for best results.
Riis
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01-26-2013, 07:44 AM
|  | Supporting Curmudgeon Moderator | | Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Suburban Chicago, IL | | | Sounds like a good time to consider threaded inserts as an option to plugging and redrilling.
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Ken If you can't be a good example, then you'll just have to serve as a horrible warning. As I cuddled the porcupine he said I had none to blame, but me. | 
01-26-2013, 08:12 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Burlington, Vt. | | I prefer matchsticks to toothpicks for this. Insert glue, matchstick, break off flush, insert screw to tighten. Being of soft pine, they "smoosh" better with the glue than toothpicks, which are usually maple and less inclined to break up and reform decent threads, IME. I've never had a failure of this repair. I also imagine threaded inserts would be a great fix, but I'm sure they require a higher level of woodworking skill to be done right than glue and matchsticks. Oh, and I have to wonder how you stripped the holes to begin with? Whatever it is, cut it out  !
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Last edited by TomB : 01-26-2013 at 08:14 AM.
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01-26-2013, 08:25 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Bethel CT | | | No clue how why all the sudden they are stripped. I took the bass apart to paint it now the screws dont tighten which makes me wonder if they were already stripped. Its an 80s fender so truss rod adjustment is at the bottom of the neck so Im sure its been apart a number of times.
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01-26-2013, 08:26 AM
|  | Supporting Curmudgeon Moderator | | Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Suburban Chicago, IL | | | Threaded inserts are actually an easy conversion. You simply overdrill the existing hole for the insert and crank it in. I've done it several times using a hand drill.
I wouldn't do it that way for a new undrilled install (really calls for a drill press), but for a repair it's easy and painless.
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Ken If you can't be a good example, then you'll just have to serve as a horrible warning. As I cuddled the porcupine he said I had none to blame, but me. | 
01-26-2013, 08:44 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Bethel CT | | | I have a drill press. were can I get inserts from ?
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01-26-2013, 03:07 PM
|  | Supporting Curmudgeon Moderator | | Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Suburban Chicago, IL | | I've always gotten them from Rockler, but that's because they have a local store. IIRC they are 8-32 thread. Many hardware stores carry them. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...2&site=ROCKLER
Be sure to buy matching machine screws, of course!
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Ken If you can't be a good example, then you'll just have to serve as a horrible warning. As I cuddled the porcupine he said I had none to blame, but me. | 
01-26-2013, 03:12 PM
| | | | I've used the toothpick trick without the glue. The wood gets mashed in there pretty good on it's own. | 
01-26-2013, 03:36 PM
|  | Registered User I setup & repair guitars & basses | | Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Kensington, Ca | | | Threaded inserts: what I use 1/4-20 buttonhead machine screws, steel inserts. Tremendous crankdown torque, this way.
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01-26-2013, 03:48 PM
|  | Supporting Curmudgeon Moderator | | Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Suburban Chicago, IL | | Quote:
Originally Posted by JLS 1/4-20 buttonhead machine screws, steel inserts. Tremendous crankdown torque, this way. | Do you end up having to overdrill the body holes to clear? I thought they were usually smaller than 1/4".
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Ken If you can't be a good example, then you'll just have to serve as a horrible warning. As I cuddled the porcupine he said I had none to blame, but me. | 
01-26-2013, 04:19 PM
|  | Registered User I setup & repair guitars & basses | | Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Kensington, Ca | | Quote:
Originally Posted by HeavyDuty Do you end up having to overdrill the body holes to clear? I thought they were usually smaller than 1/4". | Yup. This is the way I've always done it, save for a few dalliances w/crossnuts, decades ago. The buttonheads rest on top of the neckplate.
It's imperative to have the inserts square to the surface of the heel, so I recently made a jig that will hold the neck fingerboard down, and indexed to the quill of the drillpress. I use a Wixey digital angle checker, set to zero on the quill, and 90 degrees on the heel. The last conversion I did, I used this, it was an enormous timesaver.
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01-26-2013, 10:39 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Finland (Northern Europe) | | Hi. Quote:
Originally Posted by HeavyDuty Sounds like a good time to consider threaded inserts as an option to plugging and redrilling. | +1000
I wouldn't use toothpicks or matchsticks and glue because... Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamR Its an 80s fender so truss rod adjustment is at the bottom of the neck so Im sure its been apart a number of times. | You'll probably have to remove it again at some point, and the band-aid remedies usually don't last very long if they have to be taken apart.
Regards
Sam | 
01-26-2013, 10:49 PM
|  | Registered User I setup & repair guitars & basses | | Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Kensington, Ca | | Quote:
Originally Posted by T-Bird Hi.
+1000
I wouldn't use toothpicks or matchsticks and glue because...
You'll probably have to remove it again at some point, and the band-aid remedies usually don't last very long if they have to be taken apart.
Regards
Sam |
I do these conversions because of the the tonal enhancement & increased sustain.
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Last edited by JLS : 01-26-2013 at 10:57 PM.
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01-26-2013, 10:57 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Fort Collins, Colorado | | This thread of mine may provide some help if you wan to go to the trouble of threaded inserts. You'd also be OK to either drill and plug the holes or add wood and glue to fill out the holes. Installing threaded inserts (insert nuts) on a neck (long)
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01-27-2013, 06:22 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Bethel CT | | | Thanks guys. I think Im gonna call the shop that does my repair work and have him put the inserts in the neck. Better safe than sorry.
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01-27-2013, 06:26 AM
|  | Registered Loser | | Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: St. Louis | | Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamR Thanks guys. I think Im gonna call the shop that does my repair work and have him put the inserts in the neck. Better safe than sorry. |
Good call. I trust the matchstick/toothpick and glue trick for strap buttons, but for neck screws I would use the inserts for sure.
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01-27-2013, 06:38 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Bethel CT | | | Im sure toothpicks would work till I go to adjust the trust rod and end up right back were I was.
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01-27-2013, 06:39 AM
|  | Registered Loser | | Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: St. Louis | | Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamR Im sure toothpicks would work till I go to adjust the trust rod and end up right back were I was. |
Probably, but by my way of thinking ( Maybe just the carpenter in me), if your strap button moves a little it's no big deal, if your neck moves a little, it's a big deal.
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