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  #21  
Old 01-27-2013, 08:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamR View Post
Im sure toothpicks would work till I go to adjust the trust rod and end up right back were I was.
Since you're outsourcing the work, you may want to consider asking the tech to add a channel so you may access the truss rod without removing the neck. If this is a vintage or collectible instrument...no.

Riis
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  #22  
Old 01-27-2013, 08:36 AM
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I just repainted it or I would. Its an 85 MIJ Jazz Special.
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  #23  
Old 01-27-2013, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by AdamR View Post
I just repainted it or I would. Its an 85 MIJ Jazz Special.
If done correctly, the mod will probably not be noticeable even with a new paint job. Since you'll be exposing bare wood, you could camouflage with an opaque finish. Just a thought...I'm a firm believer in the conservation of energy even when it comes to instrument maintenance.

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  #24  
Old 01-27-2013, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by TomB View Post
I prefer matchsticks to toothpicks for this. Insert glue, matchstick, break off flush, insert screw to tighten. Being of soft pine, they "smoosh" better with the glue than toothpicks, which are usually maple and less inclined to break up and reform decent threads, IME. I've never had a failure of this repair. I also imagine threaded inserts would be a great fix, but I'm sure they require a higher level of woodworking skill to be done right than glue and matchsticks. Oh, and I have to wonder how you stripped the holes to begin with? Whatever it is, cut it out !
Not that it matters particularly, but toothpicks are typically made out of birch.
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  #25  
Old 01-27-2013, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by AdamR View Post
Im sure toothpicks would work till I go to adjust the trust rod and end up right back were I was.
For future reference, when re-attaching wood screws, turn the screws in reverse until you feel them pop into the threads, then follow the same thread in every time. If you go into the same hole differently, eventually you hog out all the material.

Inserts are a good way to go on the neck regardless. Good luck.
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  #26  
Old 01-27-2013, 12:50 PM
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Looks like the issue was to much paint in the neck pocket moved the neck just enough that the screws hogged the holes out. Note to self. Mask off the neck pocket next time.
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  #27  
Old 01-27-2013, 05:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamR View Post
No clue how why all the sudden they are stripped. I took the bass apart to paint it now the screws dont tighten which makes me wonder if they were already stripped. Its an 80s fender so truss rod adjustment is at the bottom of the neck so Im sure its been apart a number of times.
If the bass has been pulled apart a few times too many it will do this,its normal with any screws.
Toothpicks,bigger screws do whatever you have to.
Ask a pro fastner what to do in these cases !
  #28  
Old 01-27-2013, 09:03 PM
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+1 to toothpicks & wood glue, screwed in wet (i always pipe up in defense of this method )

+1 also to adding the little american standard-style cutout to heel-adjust instruments; i did it to my reissue tele, and done right it looks unobtrusive while saving vast amounts of wear and headache.

either way, be sure the screw slips through the body and only threads into the neck! you'd be appalled by how many otherwise good bolt-ons don't get this right.

the threaded inserts are cool and all, but since regular wood screws are plenty strong enough to bend the corners of a neck plate in and crush the body wood, i don't see them as a magic improvement.
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  #29  
Old 01-27-2013, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Floyd Eye View Post
Probably, but by my way of thinking ( Maybe just the carpenter in me), if your strap button moves a little it's no big deal, if your neck moves a little, it's a big deal.
think a little more:

a loose neck screw means that if you have a loose neck pocket fit and it's bumped and if the other screws are also not tight enough, your neck might shift a little

a loose strap button screw may mean a surprise dive to the floor and a new detachable headstock
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  #30  
Old 01-27-2013, 09:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walterw View Post
think a little more:

a loose neck screw means that if you have a loose neck pocket fit and it's bumped and if the other screws are also not tight enough, your neck might shift a little

a loose strap button screw may mean a surprise dive to the floor and a new detachable headstock
Moves a LITTLE Walter. As a well known proponent of the toothpick method, you well know that after properly deploying this method, it ain't gonna move much. Right?
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  #31  
Old 01-27-2013, 09:18 PM
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it either won't move at all or it wasn't done right.
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  #32  
Old 01-27-2013, 09:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walterw View Post
it either won't move at all or it wasn't done right.
Alright, alright, but what about the neck adjustment issue?
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  #33  
Old 01-27-2013, 09:52 PM
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there is that; if done right (spinning the screws backwards to drop into the original threads so as to prevent "double-threading") you should be fine, but there might still be wear eventually. at that point though you could just fix it with toothpicks and wood glue

in all seriousness, that issue (having to pull the neck off to adjust the rod) is why i like the american standard-style cutout, so you can adjust without taking the neck off.

bill kirchen is a well-known threaded-inserts guy on his teles, but that's because he routinely takes them apart to carry them onto airplanes!
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  #34  
Old 01-28-2013, 09:04 PM
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Hi.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JLS View Post
I do these conversions because of the the tonal enhancement & increased sustain.
True, there can be that effect as well.

However, not all players dig that and claim their instruments character has changed.

Fortunately for them, the regular BO shimming style makes sure that there's minimal contact between the neck heel and the neck pocket so the lack of sustain is guaranteed regardless of what kind of fastening method is used.

Regards
Sam
  #35  
Old 01-28-2013, 09:47 PM
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wait, what?
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  #36  
Old 01-28-2013, 10:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott in Dallas View Post
For future reference, when re-attaching wood screws, turn the screws in reverse until you feel them pop into the threads, then follow the same thread in every time. If you go into the same hole differently, eventually you hog out all the material.

Inserts are a good way to go on the neck regardless. Good luck.
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