|  | 
04-30-2007, 04:16 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Fort Mill, SC | | | Low string always dead.
Sign in to disble this ad
So my bass seems to be setup ok. The action is good on everything, but at my gig the other night, I noticed that my low string was extremely muddy compared to the other strings which were really bright because I'd just put a new pack on there about 2 weeks ago. Any ideas?
__________________ Fender MIM Club member #17
We have all our beliefs but we don't want our beliefs, God of peace, we want you. -Aaron Weiss
| 
04-30-2007, 04:49 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Ventura, CA | | | You most likely play it more than the others, and your thumb rests on it when playing the A string, which you use second most. The more finger contact you have with a string, the faster it dies. | 
04-30-2007, 06:23 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: New Jersey | | My E string always dies way before my other strings also..  | 
04-30-2007, 06:26 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Gladstone, QLD, Australia | | | I discovered this a couple of years back, and I try to let every TB'er know...because, IMO, it's one of the most crucial things you can do to get
a good tone out of your thick strings. This applies to all strings, however, not just the thick ones.
When you put on a new set of strings, you need to have a good witness point on the bridge...this helps tremendously with both tuning and tone.
Here's what you do...Press down (towards the body) firmly on the string just in front (fingerboard side) of the bridge saddle...retune as required...
This gives the string a good solid, sharp bend or "break" over the bridge saddle, instead of a curve...this allows the bridge saddle to do it's job
properly and produce a solid point from which the string will vibrate...
Believe me. It makes a difference.
Also, when stringing, you should always be sure to use the tuner and "wind" your string around the tuning post. Do not take short cuts and "wrap" your string around the post.
This is because, wrapping will twist your string and put stress on your string that interferes with it's natural vibration. 1/2 to 1 twist in a string may not affect the sound much, but why not just avoid twists altogether? | 
04-30-2007, 08:54 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Saskatoon, Sask. Canada | | Quote:
Also, when stringing, you should always be sure to use the tuner and "wind" your string around the tuning post. Do not take short cuts and "wrap" your string around the post.
This is because, wrapping will twist your string and put stress on your string that interferes with it's natural vibration. 1/2 to 1 twist in a string may not affect the sound much, but why not just avoid twists altogether?
| Or if you do wrap around the post, make sure you have enough slack to push the ball end off the bridge allowing it to unwrap itself, you should feel the string twist back into it's natural position.
__________________
As long as I'm spankin' something I'm hearing music!
Dingwall Club Member #100
| 
05-01-2007, 07:49 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Ventura, CA | | | Good tip on the witness point, I do that as well. Its actually OK to wrap around the post as long as the string is allowed to rotate freely in the bridge before you tune to pitch, which releases any twisting. I help it out by moving it around in the bridge a bit after wrapping but before tuning up (while I hold the string on the post with my other hand.
Hey -- thats the same thing he ^^^ said. Right on. | 
05-01-2007, 08:15 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: New Jersey | | | I still blame the death of the E string due to its location.
It just gets played more and comes in contact with
the palm quite often.
I know they, it , are alive and vibrant right after putting on
a new set of strings.
They usually die slowely, but still much quicker then the rest
of the set. | 
05-01-2007, 04:12 PM
| | Registered User Bass Technician, Club Bass - Toronto | | Join Date: May 2004 Location: Toronto Canada | | Quote:
Originally Posted by PilbaraBass Here's what you do...Press down (towards the body) firmly on the string just in front (fingerboard side) of the bridge saddle...retune as required...
This gives the string a good solid, sharp bend or "break" over the bridge saddle, instead of a curve...this allows the bridge saddle to do it's job
properly and produce a solid point from which the string will vibrate... |
It's a good idea to do the same thing at the nut. Press down with one thumb on each side of the nut. But be careful that you don't press too hard and crack it.
__________________
Instrument Technician, Toronto
| | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | |
Posting Rules
| You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts HTML code is On | | | |