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  #1  
Old 07-05-2010, 11:09 PM
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Lower Action on a Neck Thru

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I am trying to get the action a bit lower on my neck through but I have come to a point where I don't know what to do. The neck is nice and straight. The nut height is good when I check it by pressing down at the third fret. Unfortunately the bridge height won't go any lower and the action is still a bit high at the 12th fret. This is the point where I would shim the neck on a bolt on but no dice with the neck through.
Should I sand down the bridge a bit so it will sit lower?
Should I sand down the saddles a bit to get the strings lower?
Thanks for the help.
  #2  
Old 07-05-2010, 11:23 PM
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How long have you had your bass? Is this a yearly thing? I ask because the seasonal changes with humidity and such have often made me consider changing my setup, only to find it settle back in a controlled environment.

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  #3  
Old 07-06-2010, 02:35 AM
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The neck should not be TOO straight - it should have some 'bow' in it. Don't sand anything because you can never 'un-sand' it if it eventually proves not to be the problem!

Download & work through http://www.jerzydrozdbasses.com/ulti...ass-setup.html and only then re-evaluate your situation.
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  #4  
Old 07-06-2010, 02:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tobie View Post
The neck should not be TOO straight - it should have some 'bow' in it.
Not necessarily. Some famous bassists had straight necks adjusted for an even amount of slight fret buzz that added to their tone, without choking off sustain or whatnot. The "must have relief" deal is a bit of an over-hyped myth, IMO.

OP - take the bass to a professional technician, who will be able to help you better than anybody on TB who obviously doesn't actually have your bass in hand to evaluate. Don't do anything drastic on your own.
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  #5  
Old 07-06-2010, 06:14 AM
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If you are comfortable with working on your own bass and doing your setups, you can try filing down the bottom of your saddles. This will allow your saddles to go lower.

Another option is recessing your bridge, but that requires more work and more tools.

+1 to neck relief not needed, btw. I practically have none. Any more relief and the string height goes even higher.
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  #6  
Old 07-06-2010, 06:32 AM
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+1 get a guitar tech to set it up the right way..it depends greatly on the bass..warwick bass tend to have a very straight neck..
i know some bass players who try get a 100 quid bass to try feel and sound like a 1000 quid bass..its not going to happen..some bass guitars just cant do what you want no matter what you do..try a guitar tech and if its still not right sell it and get something else..
  #7  
Old 07-06-2010, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtvrb View Post
I am trying to get the action a bit lower on my neck through but I have come to a point where I don't know what to do. The neck is nice and straight. The nut height is good when I check it by pressing down at the third fret. Unfortunately the bridge height won't go any lower and the action is still a bit high at the 12th fret. This is the point where I would shim the neck on a bolt on but no dice with the neck through.
Should I sand down the bridge a bit so it will sit lower?
Should I sand down the saddles a bit to get the strings lower?
Thanks for the help.
If the neck is straight you will have to raise the bridge to prevent fret buzz. A straight neck does not give you the lowest action.

Add a little relief (0.007" to 0.012") to find the lowest action possible. To get the lowest possible action you must play with the lightest possible right hand touch. Let the amplifier do the work. Learn to mute the strings with your left or right hand. Be prepared to adjust things with changing temperature/humidity.
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  #8  
Old 07-06-2010, 01:47 PM
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File down the adjustment screws for the bridge saddles, the end that meets the bridge plate rather then the end you turn screw/hex wrench from. Any metal file should do the trick, you may need a vice to hold the aqdjustment screws while you file them down some,
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  #9  
Old 07-06-2010, 01:52 PM
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what kind of bass is it?
what kind of bridge is it?
is it the original bridge?
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  #10  
Old 07-06-2010, 02:27 PM
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General advice probably won't get it to where you want it to be. Specifics are in order. You'll need to supply them.

Measure the relief at the seventh fret from the top of the fret to the bottom of the string. This measurement will be in thousandths. Measure the string height at the twelfth and last frets on both the bass and treble sides. That is usually in 64ths of an inch.

Post them here and someone will help you.
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  #11  
Old 07-06-2010, 02:37 PM
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don't overlook the nut.

Many times on lower cost (under $2k) basses.. the string fitting is the avoided labor.

I've found many that require a taller nut and shorter bridge.

Tim
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  #12  
Old 07-06-2010, 02:41 PM
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OP: You may also try a set of taper-wound strings as they sit lower in the saddles. Otherwise, take it to a professional who can adjust the bass properly. If they mess it up then they get to fix it.
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  #13  
Old 07-06-2010, 11:50 PM
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The bass is a rick copy. I just got it and was trying to set it up to get it going. I tried shimming the nut up and lowering the bridge down but the action was much higher than I liked. I put the nut back to regular height.
I don't have my feeler gauges available right now so I don't have exact measurements for relief. There is a little bit. Maybe a business card thickness.
Action is about 4mm on the E side and 4.5mm on the G side. I would like to get it a hair lower on the G side if possible.
  #14  
Old 07-07-2010, 02:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim C. View Post
The "must have relief" deal is a bit of an over-hyped myth, IMO.
I'm way too much of a rookie to dispute your opinion, but the 'slight concave bow' requirement makes sense from a logical viewpoint: A string vibrates more in its middle section than on its ends and that extra vibration needs more space (specially on a low action). Otherwise where will it find space to vibrate? Or does it have to be overcome by technique to make it vibrate horizontally instead of vertically?
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  #15  
Old 07-07-2010, 02:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tobie View Post
I'm way too much of a rookie to dispute your opinion, but the 'slight concave bow' requirement makes sense from a logical viewpoint: A string vibrates more in its middle section than on its ends and that extra vibration needs more space (specially on a low action). Otherwise where will it find space to vibrate? Or does it have to be overcome by technique to make it vibrate horizontally instead of vertically?
My Steinberger has such low action that notes ring out when I sneeze. It also has a perfectly straight neck.

The reason it works is 1) the fret dressing, which usually requires a Plek machine and 2) I brush the strings lightly; the electronics do the rest of the work.

I don't need to worry about which direction my strings vibrate, since they vibrate in an ellipse anyway, I just don't cause them to move enough to hit the frets unless I want them to. It just took a little practice and lighter guage strings to make it happen.

The short version is, if you can't get your action as low as you'd like on a set neck, you may be yanking the string too hard. Let the pickups and amp do the work, and try playing with a lighter touch.
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