Lowering Ritter 3D Bridge

jordanm · #1 01-22-2006, 09:57 PM

So.. I just got my new Ritter and the bridge looks like it is as low as it can go. However the string is about .5mm away from the first fret and by the 24th its around 3.5mm away from the fret. Is this just as low as it can go? Here is a pic of a ritter bridge. Mine the square floating pieces are sitting on the solid metal piece and cannot be lowered only raised. It seems like there should be an extra smaller piece that sticks up?

for more info and shots of the bridge

http://www.ritter-basses.com/ritter-...ses-bridge.htm

Help.. anyone?

Trevorus · #2 01-22-2006, 09:58 PM

Can the individual saddles go down? Also, how is the relief?

Folmeister · #3 01-22-2006, 10:36 PM

Thank God someone else asked this question! I need to raise the action on my Ritter and I am scared s**tless at trying to do this. Jens was nice enough to answer my questions before NAMM, but I still have reservations. Two saddle screws are challenge enough for me. Three is killing me.

jordanm · #4 01-23-2006, 01:57 PM

All the saddles can move down, but they are as low as they can currently go. Im thinking I will have to remove the pieces sticking up and make groves for the strings to stick directly in the saddles.

Folmeister, you can raise it pretty easily. I would reccomend removing the strings first and then you need to loosen the locking allen screw which you can see sticking diagonally in the side from a top view. Then just raise the three allen screws in the bridge and re tighten the lock. Just remember to loosen the locking allen screw again before you re adjust the bridge or you will scratch the saddle holster.

**smperry** · #5 01-23-2006, 02:51 PM

jordanm - Have you tried adjusting the neck a bit? I'd be wary of putting the strings on the bridge without the squares (even if you file slots)...it seems like it would affect how the string is in contact with the body. I'll look at mine some more when I get back home and think about it some more. I wonder if the squares could be filed down some?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Folmeister

Thank God someone else asked this question! I need to raise the action on my Ritter and I am scared s**tless at trying to do this. Jens was nice enough to answer my questions before NAMM, but I still have reservations. Two saddle screws are challenge enough for me. Three is killing me.

Like jordanm said, I don't think its a big deal. We should meet up sometime - I can show you how to raise the action and deal with all of those screws, and you can help me intonate mine with your strobe tuner.

Marshall

jordanm · #6 01-23-2006, 02:55 PM

I think the allen wrench you need is a 1.2mm size btw. And my neck is pretty much completely straight, there is an ever slight arch to it, but I will try messing with it. What is the distance from the bottom of the string to you 24th fret Marshall?

The slots sticking up can be filed pretty easily but then the strings would hit the squares anyways... if you file the squares it might interfere with the locking system since it is pretty low into the square. I will post on the ritter yahoo forum and see if I can get someone to reply, but I dont think people check there much.

**smperry** · #7 01-23-2006, 03:18 PM

Yeah, the yahoo forum doesn't get much action and the Ritter forum has been closed.

I see your point about how filing on the "slots" will mean that it contacts the bridge assembly also, but at least then it's only behind the slot...if that made sense (this is hard over typing). I hate to say "neck shim" but...

I will check my height when I'm home if I can find a precise measuring tool, but I'm guessing its that high...I don't have my saddles as low as they can go (low, but not all the way down).

Marshall

jordanm · #8 01-23-2006, 04:10 PM

Yea I would be a little nervous about putting a neck shim on this thing.. a $300 mim j bass is one thing, but I spent a bit of cash on this puppy. And I understand what your saying about the bridge.. I would probably have to drill a hole through the back to hit the slot caused by the locking allen screw. Which would solve it.... The bridge places can be replaced fairly easily, but if I get warp in the neck from shims thats completely different.

Mine is also a little older (01'), even thought I just bought it new. So he could have changed the bridge up a little bit since then.. I will try to email Jens in a few days since I'm sure he wont be home for awhile from NAMM.

jordanm · #9 01-23-2006, 07:38 PM

Ehh.. straightened the neck out and its starting to get a little buzzy already, oh well Probably like a .5mm drop from that? Pretty damn low, at any rate I can deal

Seems like you have to hammer down really hard if you want to do some high end tapping on it though is my only concern, I think it has more to do with the way it is fretted however. Just a little different than what I'm used to I guess, I can always adapt.

Folmeister · #10 01-27-2006, 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smperry

jordanm - Have you tried adjusting the neck a bit? I'd be wary of putting the strings on the bridge without the squares (even if you file slots)...it seems like it would affect how the string is in contact with the body. I'll look at mine some more when I get back home and think about it some more. I wonder if the squares could be filed down some?

Like jordanm said, I don't think its a big deal. We should meet up sometime - I can show you how to raise the action and deal with all of those screws, and you can help me intonate mine with your strobe tuner.

Marshall

Deal!