|  | 
05-09-2011, 05:16 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Tampa Bay Area, Florida | | | Lowering the strings on my fretless...!
Sign in to disble this ad
Ok so I have a 1987 Fender J Bass MIM that my dad turned into a fretless. Well the sting height from the fretboard is too high. I've lowered it as much as I can at the bridge but it's still to high!! What else can I do?
__________________
If a composer could say what he had to say in words he would not bother trying to say it in music. ~Gustav Mahler
| 
05-09-2011, 05:19 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Anasleim, CA | | | Shim the neck? | 
05-09-2011, 05:26 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Southern California | | | It's time to shim the neck...not too difficult.
1. loosen the strings but don't remove them
2. loosen the 4 neck bolts
3. cut a .5" x 1" piece of .010 shim stock (use a thick business card if you don't have shim stock)
4. put the shim stock in the neck pocket between the two neck screws closest to the bridge.
5. snug the neck screws but do not tighten them
6. tighten the strings until they have some tension (not all the way to pitch)
7. make sure the neck is aligned (i.e. the distance between the outsides of the E & G strings and the edges of the fingerboard are the same). You can pull the neck slightly until the alignment is correct.
8. once the neck is aligned tighten the 4 neck bolts
9. readjust action to taste.
10. If you still can't lower the action enough, use a thicker shim.
__________________ Quote:
Originally Posted by bradjonesbass Study what Pino does and do that! WWPD? | | 
05-09-2011, 05:42 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Mississauga | | | But before you do any of that, have you filed down your nut slots? | 
05-09-2011, 07:39 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Southwestern NY | | | Ok, you've adjusted it at the bridge. Have you adjusted the truss rod to take some of the relief out of the neck?
L. Howard
PS: Adjusting the truss rod would be the next, easiest method to reduce string height.
Last edited by lhoward : 05-09-2011 at 07:42 PM.
Reason: Add detail
| 
05-09-2011, 09:03 PM
| | Registered User Bass Technician, Club Bass - Toronto | | Join Date: May 2004 Location: Toronto Canada | | Quote:
Originally Posted by lhoward Adjusting the truss rod would be the next, easiest method to reduce string height. | Careful - adjusting the trussrod is not a method for reducing string height. It's a method for adjusting neck relief.
__________________
Instrument Technician, Toronto
| 
05-10-2011, 09:24 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Singapore | | Quote: |
Originally Posted by Turnaround
Careful - adjusting the trussrod is not a method for reducing string height. It's a method for adjusting neck relief. | +1. It may seem like it does lower the strings but its not the right way to go about it nor does it produce optimal results.
When you remove the frets you also need to file your nut slots that much deeper, otherwise your strings will be uncomfortably high. If that is done, your relief is good and you can't get your bridge saddles low enough, you need a neck shim, as mentioned above.
__________________
Zon Sonus Custom 6
Zon Vinny 6 Fretless
| 
05-10-2011, 09:26 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: St. Louis | | | It produces fine results if you have forward bow in the neck already. Your neck can be adjusted to the flattest position possible before fret buzz. This should be done prior to adjusting the action at the bridge, filing the nut or shimming the neck.
__________________
Free Jimmy M
| 
05-10-2011, 12:33 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Southern California | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Floyd Eye It produces fine results if you have forward bow in the neck already. Your neck can be adjusted to the flattest position possible before fret buzz. This should be done prior to adjusting the action at the bridge, filing the nut or shimming the neck. | Technically it's not fret buzz on a fretless
Smarta$$ comments aside, the neck relief will only affect action by fifteen or twenty thousandths of an inch and this is at the apex of the truss rod curve in the middle of the neck. True, you can have less relief on a fretless fingerboard provided you don't have an unusually heavy plucking technique and it makes sense to set the relief before delving into further setup modifications.
__________________ Quote:
Originally Posted by bradjonesbass Study what Pino does and do that! WWPD? | | 
05-10-2011, 02:22 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Tampa Bay Area, Florida | | I've filed the nut and adjusted the saddles and truss rod, so neck shimmer I guess is my next step. Thanx people! 
__________________
If a composer could say what he had to say in words he would not bother trying to say it in music. ~Gustav Mahler
| 
05-16-2011, 01:20 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Southwestern NY | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Turnaround Careful - adjusting the trussrod is not a method for reducing string height. It's a method for adjusting neck relief. | Rather than talking around it, perhaps its just better to say that doing a complete setup of the instrument first is needed to determine if shimming is required. It just seems that if the bass didn't need shimming prior to being de-fretted, it may just need a new setup done. | 
05-16-2011, 01:30 PM
|  | Signed, Sealed, Delivered | | Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: NY & MA | | | I'd also test for "ski jump". That instrument is certainly old enough to have possibly developed that situation. And no amount of shimming or any other adjustment is going to give you great results if "ski jump" is present. | 
05-16-2011, 02:24 PM
| | Registered User I setup & repair guitars & basses | | Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Kensington, Ca | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Slowgypsy I'd also test for "ski jump". That instrument is certainly old enough to have possibly developed that situation. And no amount of shimming or any other adjustment is going to give you great results if "ski jump" is present. | ^^^Good point!
__________________
Instrument repair/setup, Bay area
| 
05-16-2011, 02:39 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Minneapolis, MN | | | It took me a solid two months of tweaking to get my last fretless set up to my satisfaction. In the end shimming was not necessary. I hope yours goes faster.
This bass was a challenge. It was cheap but was made of good woods. The fit and finish weren't there at all. A lot of work was required, flattening the neck, filing the nut, playing with shims, bending the bridge (!), etc. It was a iterative process and a lot of thought was required.
I guess the moral of my story is to not be in a hurry about it. Sometimes it just takes time.
KO | 
06-25-2011, 05:08 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Tampa Bay Area, Florida | | | I put it in the shop to get the adjustments I need and new pickups and a badass II Bridge...
__________________
If a composer could say what he had to say in words he would not bother trying to say it in music. ~Gustav Mahler
| 
06-27-2011, 06:06 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina | | | i would say that its imposible to down the saddles at full and dont get a low action with the traditional bent plate fender bridge.
if i do it with mine, the open strings touch the frets.
__________________
"You are a basshole"
| | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | |
Posting Rules
| You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts HTML code is On | | | |