For lowest action, setup with low tension strings?

[Spyrosaab]

Hi all,

First post on this most excellent forum.

I've been playing bass for about a year and a half now, previously played some keys and (tried to play) the theremin.

When I first got my bass (Hohner BA2V headless) it came with unknown roundwounds. I quickly learnt that I don't like the zing or feel of rounds. I also tried playing with the setup to get it low, but it has a couple of high frets meaning I can't get the action as low as I want.

Since lurking for a while on this fantastic resource, I bit the bullet and ordered a string adapter and TI flats.

I installed the strings, and then when I went to cut off the excess at the adapter, the outer winding on 3 strings started unwinding - I almost started crying! WARNING TO ALL SO IT DOESN'T HAPPEN TO YOU.

So, I then got a set of chromes, which I looove the tone of!

I found that with their higher tension, I could set it up lower than with the round-wounds as well.

Which got me thinking: since the bass needs a fret dress, in order to get the lowest action, should it be done with low tension strings on, and then when I get it back from the luthier, place the chromes on and set the action even lower?

Does this make sense or will it even work??

Please let me know your collective wisdom on this idea.

Thanks, spyrosaab

[::::BASSIST::::]

The opposite. Higher tension strings give better, low action. The Chromes are excellent strings and have decent higher tension. I've learned that action is more a combination of factors rather than just one thing. You need decent string tension, a stable neck with a slight bow in it, a well cut nut (very important), level frets and of course the correct bridge saddle height.

[quadrogong]

Flatwounds feel a little heavier/ more tension, I always go one gauge thinner when using flats.
I don't know what a "string adapter" is, but a pair of wire clippers to cut off the last few inches of string is all u need.
nothing else.

[JTE]

Originally Posted by quadrogong

Flatwounds feel a little heavier/ more tension...

Not always, so that could be problematic information. TI flats for example are MUCH lower tension than many rounds. And the GHS Precision Flats I use (45/65/85/105) aren't that much more taut than the D'Addario nickle rounds of the same gauges (XL-165 set).

To the OP's point- higher tension allows for LOWER action as the strings don't vibrate in as wide an arc. That's partly why traditional jazz guitarists would use very heavy strings (especially compared to most rock or blues players). The strings don't flop around, but of course you're not going to be doing any Buddy Guy bends on a standard tuned guitar with a set of 13's.

I also have no idea what a "string adaptor" is. Is it a string winder with a string cutter built in? If the strings came apart after you cut them, then they were installed incorrectly. Only cut the strings AFTER you've put a 90° bend in the string, then cut it about an inch beyond the bend. Read up on proper string installation before you try again.

John

[rymiraflores]

My setup on my Elite 5 is...Ti flats, 0.25 mm relief in the neck, 2mm 12th fret B, 1.5 mm 12th fret G....and I have a light touch.oh and I carefully took the nut down too using 1200 grade wet and dry folded over to the correct size....makes a curved notch and it´s very slow , so difficult to go too far. Then to, finish pencil lead in the grooves. AS a matter of interest I also found where the growl in my bass is..bridge pu 1 mm below G string and 3mm below B.

[charlie monroe]

Welcome to TalkBass, Spyro.

If you are looking for low action, get those frets dressed. Provide the technician with the strings you intend to use. After the fret work is completed, the setup performed will be tailored for those strings, at their tension. Changing strings after a setup will require additional setup tweaks. Allow the luthier or technician to take care of everything for you.

A couple members didn't pick up on this:

Originally Posted by Spyrosaab

When I first got my bass (Hohner BA2V headless)

Which makes the need for this: STEINBERGER - HeadlessUSA Guitar & Bass - String Adaptrrs more obvious, as the OP was transitioning to TI flats, which are not available with double ball ends.

[jrfrond]

First of all, as was pointed out, higher tension is BETTER for lower action due to the smaller scribed vibrational arc.

Secondly, directly concerning your bass: I've worked on those basses before, as well as other basses out of the Cort factory, and have seen many issues with frets that have simply popped out of the fret slots. Therefore, you really should bring it to a good guitar tech to have the bass evaluated.

Any guitar or bass, provided the frets are level, should play with a dead-flat neck. Neck relief compensates for fret and/or neck issues. If the neck is straight with no twists and the frets are level, then relief isn't necessary, and in fact, the bass will play better without it, even if you set the string height a bit higher to compensate for fret buzz.