maintaining fretboard radius at nut side of fretboard

[tranceFusion]

I usually play with fairly high action (according to TB's measurements anyway), but I thought I would try lowering it for a while and see if I like it better.

When I set the string height at the bridge to match the fretboard radius, it does not stay this way up to the nut.

This causes my fretting hand to have to step up to the lowest (E/B) string from the other strings when playing in the lower frets on the fretboard (say, frets 1-7), as the top of the string is higher.

This gets more dramatic the lower the action is. With the saddle for the B bottomed out, the B is sticking up above the other strings a good bit at the nut, but is well below the others at the bridge.

My initial assumption is that there isn't any way to fix this - the thicker strings are never going to be able sit as low down in the nut as a thinner string and still be able to clear the first fret.

Am I missing something, doing something wrong, or is this just how people with low action like it?

[Zooberwerx]

I kinda understand what you're talking about. Think the problem is you're trying to radius the strings to match the fretboard, right? If the relief and nut slots are correct and you set string height to spec. (read the set-up stickies), the resulting string radius will follow that of the fingerboard to some extent but not perfectly.

In other words, your set-up procedure sounds a little bass-ackwards.

Riis

[tranceFusion]

Yeah I mean I guess what I am trying to get at is - I don't want to have the top of the B string sitting way above the E string towards the nut, and way below it at the bridge. It doesn't feel right to me.

I know it is always going to be somewhat like this due to the difference in string gauges, but by lifting the other strings up at the bridge you can greatly reduce it, although the action on those strings will be higher.. It is exacerbated by trying to set your action as low as possible as the nut end of the string will always have to be jacked up to clear the first fret.

[Zooberwerx]

Sorry but you'll have to contend with that on a conventionally-adjusted bass with radiused fretboard. Now, OTOH, I have a Cliff Bordwell with a perfectly flat FB, no curvature at all. The B string, in perspective, sits higher than the E at both the nut and bridge with the string height set to spec.

Riis

[Madcity Fats]

The fatter strings typically sit higher in the nut that the thinner ones, but that shouldn't necessarily translate to a "step up" when you're moving to the E or B.

First thing to do is ensure that your nut is slotted properly for the strings you're using. It may appear that they have just the right clearance now, but a slight adjustment by someone with a good set of nut files (and experience using them) can make all the difference. Mind you, the fat strings will still sit higher at the nut (if you think about it, they have to be radiused to the board from the bottom edge of the string, so the bigger ones will naturally sit higher), but an adjustment might get it feeling more natural to you at least.

[Zooberwerx]

Good point, Mudcity Fats. I'll go one step further: the task(s)at hand requires the assistance of a good tech. Find one who'll let you watch the set-up process. You'll learn a lot, trust me. Best of luck with the project.

Riis

[tranceFusion]

Yeah, I think the main issue is I just put Chromes on. The B is .132 and the E is only .100.. Kind of creates a big step up, which had me looking at my other basses a little more carefully.

[vejesse]

Here's a suggestion: Unless you're doing fretwork don't worry about the radius of the fingerboard, simply set the height of the strings at the bridge individually at the 12th or 17th fret. I use the 17th frets as a reference and start with 5 or 6/64" at the G and go up 1/64 per string. Remember fingerboard relief plays a big role here too. After the 7th or 9th fret, giving the board more relief only raises the overall string height and makes the bass more uncomfortable in the higher registers. Relief is for clearance up to the 7th fret or so. If you're setting the string height at the nut make sure the slot fits and there's downforce on the nut. The nut slot height comes up gradually from treble to bass but ideally were talking about a few thousands. No need to raise to low strings to uncomfortable levels. if that's the case something's wrong with the setup.