Which Masking Tape Is Best?

[selowitch]

When putting down tape on a bass body to drill holes, which masking tape is the least likely to damage the finish? I'm reading through this article as I consider this issue. I plan to drill first in reverse (counterclockwise) through the tape a little bit, then remove the tape and drill clockwise for the rest of the pilot hole (drilling a new Schaller bridge).

[Pilgrim]

I've used the blue painter's tape without finish damage. It may leave a bit of adhesive residue, but that's easy to clean.

[bobunit]

Originally Posted by selowitch

When putting down tape on a bass body to drill holes, which masking tape is the least likely to damage the finish? I'm reading through this article as I consider this issue. I plan to drill first in reverse (counterclockwise) through the tape a little bit, then remove the tape and drill clockwise for the rest of the pilot hole (drilling a new Schaller bridge).

What is the reasoning for drilling counterclockwise first?

[selowitch]

Originally Posted by bobunit

What is the reasoning for drilling counterclockwise first?

Apparently some feel it's the best way to make it through the tape and finish before pausing, removing the tape, and then changing to forward/clockwise for drilling into the actual wood. Cf. this post. My guess is that going in reverse/counterclockwise for that first step makes a cleaner, rounder hole than going forward/clockwise.

I wonder, too, if a handheld Black & Decker cordless drill has sufficient torque of if I have to bust out the Skil plug-in drill, and whether I need a vice (which I don't have).

[WalterBush]

Originally Posted by Pilgrim

I've used the blue painter's tape without finish damage. It may leave a bit of adhesive residue, but that's easy to clean.

+1000 on blue painter's tape. I've never even had it leave residue, but that may just be the finish on my basses.

Any standard masking tape will leave something behind.

[xgator4u]

YUP definitely the blue painters tape, if you take it off within a short period of time it should leave little or no residue. I also do not understand the reverse drilling either, seems to me the bit would tend to "walk" in reverse. I would think starting with very small bits and working up gradually, removing small amounts of material in an ever increasing diameter hole would be the way to go. also make sure the bits are sharp.

[LoveThatBass]

I was thinking about the drilling in reverse thing mentioned above.
a. you have painter's tape in place. Less tendancy to walk
b. you are not grabbing into the finish but lightly creating a small indentation. Then removing the tape and using a slow speed you drill the rest of the way with reduced fear of chipping the finish.

Could be wrong but that is my thoughts.

[roschmbo]

I would not drill in reverse, the bit simply will not work that way. It is designed to cut the material, and going in reverse will cause it to wear through in a very unpredictable manner. The best way is to mask the area with the blue painter's tape, then measure very carefully the exact location of the hole. Using a sharp punch and a small hammer with a gentle hand, mark the hole. Drill a small pilot hole (less than 1/32) and go progressively larger until you have the correct diameter for the screw you will be driving.
The tape will not prevent damage to the surrounding finish from the drilling, but it can minimize the risk of misplaced tools. The only things that will reduce finish cracking immediately around the hole are sharp tools and a steady hand.
I don't have much experience building basses, but I have drilled a [i]lot[i] of holes!

Now that I think about it, I would probably remove the tape after punching and before drilling. The rough finish of the tape (for me anyway) would get in the way of maximum accuracy.

[Projectile]

I've used 3M blue painters tape on priceless 200 year old antiques. It's good stuff and will rarely harm the finish unless it's in a deteriorated state already. Don't buy their new tape that's branded for 'delicate' surfaces. It doesn't even stick to anything well enough to use it. Their regular blue painters tape is fine.

Roschimbo's advice is excellent. Start with a pilot hole, use a sharp bit and a steady hand. If I am really paranoid about chipping around the hole, then I will sometimes clamp a block of mdf over the surface and drill through the two layers at once, but this is case I wouldn't even worry about it.

[JustDavid]

I believe the theory behind drilling in reverse is that you then have a much duller device. I'd just use it to get a 'dent'.

I like Projectile's idea of clamping MDF onto a surface & drilling through that into the actual workpiece.

OP, sounds like Projectile & Roschmbo are quite up on this topic. Are you the person who had a cracked finish when drilling for your bridge cover? If so, I invite you to bring them up to speed on your worries from that.

[Jim Carr]

I probably shouldn't put my oar in, but my luthier installed a pickup cover on my lovely 1991 Fender P-bass '51 RI about a year ago.

He did a flawless job. It took about 3 minutes. He used a small B&D or Craftsman hand drill--the kind my father gave me when I was about 10 years old with the hand cranked gear.

No tape! Yet, no chips or cracks. I WAS a little nervous. He was oblivious to my angst, and did it as though he had done it 1000 times, which he has.

In fact, he did it so quickly that I didn't have time to get up my nerve to say, "Roy, I think I saw a roll of blue tape on the table back over there. Can I fetch it for Y'all?"....LOL!

[JustDavid]

Originally Posted by Jim Carr

I probably shouldn't put my oar in

Eh, go for it. It's better than that foolish thread wondering why there are pickguards on basses.

If trying to translate 'hand-drill" to something for the OP, would it be safe to advise using LOW speed as the magic ingredient?