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07-31-2010, 04:59 AM
| | | | maxed-out truss rod
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Truss rod on '79 Fender p is as tight as it can get. What are my options with this bass? Any information will be appreciated... |
07-31-2010, 05:19 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: D'Shaw | | | Did you loosen it first? If not try that and then re-tighten. Sometimes the trussrod nut on older basses has to be "broken free" to work properly. Loosening it first does that with less risk of damage.
If that doesn't work then the nut may have reached the end of it's travel. If that's the case, removing the trussrod nut and installing one or more washers to back the nut off a few threads may help.
If the adjusting nut doesn't loosen it may be rusted in and could require the services of a tech.
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Last edited by mongo2 : 07-31-2010 at 05:24 AM.
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07-31-2010, 05:20 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Birmingham, UK | | | You can put a washer or two between the nut and the rod to give you some extra play.
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Originally Posted by Relic  That's your masterly-bated fish hook. | |
07-31-2010, 06:10 AM
|  | Registered User | | | | | Yup. Washers.
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07-31-2010, 10:08 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: USA | | | It's also a good idea to lube the nut and surface of the washer the nut bears on. I use a tiny bit of Vaseline. Gets rid of that creaky/squeaky feeling.
mech
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07-31-2010, 10:13 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: D'Shaw | | Quote:
Originally Posted by mech It's also a good idea to lube the nut and surface of the washer the nut bears on. I use a tiny bit of Vaseline. Gets rid of that creaky/squeaky feeling.
| Lubes like that can soak into the wood causing it to soften and easier to compress. I would never lubricate a trussrod with anything other than a dry graphite lube.
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"It's a Crapshoot." The timbre is in the timber. It's a poor craftsman that blames his tools.
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07-31-2010, 10:37 AM
|  | Supporting Member | | Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Long Beach, CA | | | Lube
Quote:
Originally Posted by mongo2 Lubes like that can soak into the wood causing it to soften and easier to compress. I would never lubricate a trussrod with anything other than a dry graphite lube. | wax is ok, but just a little bit on the threads
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07-31-2010, 10:47 AM
| | Registered User
I setup & repair guitars & basses | | Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Kensington, Ca | | Quote:
Originally Posted by pltnny Truss rod on '79 Fender p is as tight as it can get. What are my options with this bass? Any information will be appreciated... | Unstring. Remove the trussrod nut, and lube threads. I use wax, grease is okay, oil not so good. Replace nut, and snug up.
Backclamp the neck into a backbow, retighten the nut. DON'T OVERDO IT! Restring, check neck relief. If the neck is too straight--lucky you!--loosen the nut slightly, until you get proper relief.
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07-31-2010, 11:00 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Birmingham, UK | | | I ususlly put a little Vaseline on the bearing surface between the nut and washer, and a little more on the threads.
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Every ding has a story. Team Trace Elliot #3 Christian P&W bassist #97 EHX club #23 Boss rocks! club #17 British bassist #68 Quote:
Originally Posted by Relic That's your masterly-bated fish hook. | |
07-31-2010, 12:28 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: USA | | | Dry graphite is good. With Vaseline or any other petroleum product "tiny" is the key word. Not enough to migrate.
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07-31-2010, 01:27 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Finland (Northern Europe) | | | Hi.
+10000 for Dry lubricants.
It's highly unlikely that a person with little or no experience can lubricate the threads and/or the bearing surface (if the washer is used) with "wet" lubricants. Overdo it, and the wood can start to give away.
While people left and right are suggesting to just put a washer there, it has to be just right. If the ID is too large or the OD is too large, there's a strong possibility to crack the neck. Been there, done that, I was young, cheapo bass with a crappy neck, nothing lost, STILL NOT RECOMMENDED.
The idea about loosening the nut first and working it through its travel is great. Applies to any threads really, regardless of the location.
Regards
Sam |
07-31-2010, 02:53 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: D'Shaw | | Quote:
Originally Posted by T-Bird While people left and right are suggesting to just put a washer there, it has to be just right. If the ID is too large or the OD is too large, there's a strong possibility to crack the neck. Been there, done that, I was young, cheapo bass with a crappy neck, nothing lost, STILL NOT RECOMMENDED. | There are special washers available from guitar parts supplies that fit perfectly.
I've also used a #8 split lock washer that I straightened out so it isn't a lock washer anymore. That one is still working fine in the neck after about 8 years.
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"It's a Crapshoot." The timbre is in the timber. It's a poor craftsman that blames his tools.
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07-31-2010, 10:36 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Finland (Northern Europe) | | Hi. Quote:
Originally Posted by mongo2 There are special washers available from guitar parts supplies that fit perfectly.
I've also used a #8 split lock washer that I straightened out so it isn't a lock washer anymore. That one is still working fine in the neck after about 8 years. | True.
But while You know that, I know that, and most of the people who work on instruments knows that, we can't automatically assume that a person who asks for a general remedy knows that. For them a washer usually means a trip to the "misc. drawer" or if there's none, to the hardware-store. It's way cheaper in there as well  .
Generally speaking (not directed to You, you gave good advice), IMHO incomplete advice on hardware issues isn't life threatening as it is on wall voltage (or over on tube amps) related DIY repair advice, but can still result loss of goods and/or money.
Regards
Sam | | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | | 
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