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11-19-2008, 07:55 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Jackson, Mississippi | | | MIM Jazz control plate
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I traded myself into a MIM Jazz from GC yesterday. I love the looks, sound, everything, except the control plate doesn't match up exactly with the pickguard. It's not even noticable from more than a foot or two, it's only like 1/16" off on one side. One side is fine, it just looks like the angle of the control plate is wrong in relation to the pickguard.
Well, I could leave it that way but I was trying to think how best to fix it. Seems like moving the control plate a hair would be easier than moving the whole pickguard. I was thinking that if that worked, I'd have to fill in the three screw holes and re-drill, since I'd barely be moving the plate. But I've never been into the control cavity of a guitar before so I don't even know if what I'm thinking is possible.
Are the volume/tone knobs and the input jack connected to the plate ONLY, and would move freely with the plate or are they connected to something else in the control cavity that would keep me from being able to move the cover plate?
And also, if what I'm proposing to do sounds workable, I suppose toothpicks and glue would be alright to fill the old screw holes?
Thanks for any help y'all can give me. | 
11-19-2008, 07:58 AM
| | | | You should be able to move it. The easy way to find out is just remove the 3 screws that hold it down and shift it to where you think it should be. Look through the holes and see if you've got wood to bite into or if you'll have to fill the old holes.
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Fender Jazz Bass Club #44
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11-19-2008, 10:37 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Jackson, Mississippi | | | I see now. I was afraid to loosen the control plate without asking first so I wouldn't mess anything up. I am able to reposition the plate to line up better with the pickguard by removing two of the three screws and re-aligning. One screw is just fine where it is. And yes, two new holes will have to be drilled. What's the best way to fill the old holes, glue and toothpicks or wood putty? I wouldn't bother but the new holes will be touching the old holes.
Thanks. | 
11-19-2008, 03:47 PM
| | Registered User Bass Technician, Club Bass - Toronto | | Join Date: May 2004 Location: Toronto Canada | | | Since you will be drilling new holes right next to the old ones, it's important to be sure the old holes are filled properly. If you use toothpicks make sure they fit tightly. Be sure to use round toothpicks, not the flat ones. If the round ones don't fit tightly, get some wooden skewers - the kind that are used on the barbeque when you skewer pieces of meat and veggies. Glue the bits in place and allow them to dry thoroughly, then trim flush with the top of the bass. Then you can re-drill, but do it carefully - your drill bit may have a tendency to wander over to where the original holes were.
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Instrument Technician, Toronto
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11-19-2008, 04:08 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Jackson, Mississippi | | | Thanks. I'd use wood filler, if I could find some that came in a small squeeze tube. All I've ever seen comes in a larger container and it has a real coarse consistency and I figure I'd have a hard time getting it down into such small holes. Still, I may look around tomorrow and see what I can find. If I don't see anything, I'll try the toothpick/skewer thing. | 
11-20-2008, 10:10 AM
| | Registered User Bass Technician, Club Bass - Toronto | | Join Date: May 2004 Location: Toronto Canada | | | If your new holes are going to touch the edge of the old holes, wood filller isn't good enough. Use the toothpicks or skewers.
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Instrument Technician, Toronto
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11-20-2008, 03:16 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Jackson, Mississippi | | | Thanks, guys. Yes, the new holes will touch the old so I wound up using wood glue and bamboo skewers. Toothpicks weren't big enough. I'm going to give it a full 24 hours before drilling the new holes. | 
11-20-2008, 03:20 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: San Diego, California | | | I wouldn't re-drill anything myself. I'd move it as close as possible and look for a pickguard that's a closer fit. | 
11-20-2008, 04:56 PM
| | | Quote:
Originally Posted by RCCollins I wouldn't re-drill anything myself. I'd move it as close as possible and look for a pickguard that's a closer fit. | +1. The damage is done, but I would have tried loosening all the screws on the pick guard and the control plate first and wiggled both around until the gap was as even as possible on both sides.
I've done the copper tape shielding/grounding, changed pick ups, shimmed the neck, changed the nut on my MIM fretless, but the control plate gap never really bugged me all that much. Part of the Fender charm - but to each his own.
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Fender Jazz, ESP LTD Viper 304, Peavey, Proctor Silex, Whirlpool, Sears Kenmore.
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11-20-2008, 05:27 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Jackson, Mississippi | | | I thought about moving the pickguard but the neck pickup hole was too tight to let the guard move in the direction it needed to go. Just felt like it'd be easier to move the control plate. | 
11-20-2008, 07:43 PM
| | | | I thought I was the only one with this issue! I have a 2002 MIM DA with the same deal, the pick guard and the control plate do not line up but its only noticeable if you look really hard. Let me know how this goes, I'm too afraid to do this myself but perhaps I can take it to someone. When it comes to changing tuners, bridges, or electronics I'm ok but i refuse to touch the neck or drill holes in the wood! | 
11-20-2008, 08:38 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Jackson, Mississippi | | | Remove the screws on the control plate and move it around to see if you can make it fit better. If you can make it fit better, even if it's not perfect, then you're in luck. I found the bamboo skewers in the kitchen utensil section of a grocery. I cut off about 1/8" of the point and discarded that because the point was sharper than the tip of the screw and I wanted to completely fill the hole. Stick the skewer down in the screw hole, mark where the skewer should be cut, cut it, cover it with wood glue, tap it in. I'm giving mine 24 hours to dry, then I'll mark and drill new holes. I plan on positioning the plate where I want it, marking the holes with a pen, then lightly tapping those points with a small nail to have a starting point for my drill (so the bit won't drift). | 
11-21-2008, 01:58 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Jackson, Mississippi | | | Well, I'm done. Perfect fit. Thanks for the help! | 
11-21-2008, 07:27 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Bloomingdale,IL | | | Same problem, MIM Jazz.
Is the problem the control plate or the pickguard? I'm planning on replacing the control with an Audere system, but if the gap will still be there, then I wanna get a new pickguard too.
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In God's love
Fretless Club #376; Christian Praise & Worship #502; Short Scale #331
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11-21-2008, 07:56 PM
|  | Endorsing Curmudgeon: Mal's Kitchen Cruelties ... | | Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Columbia River Gorge | | | Im general the issue isn't the pick guard. Those guards are cranked out on a cnc machine after all. The next one is likely to have exactly the same issue ...
Nope it's one of the diffs you get with a MIM or worse in a Squire. The person who did the control plate install just wasn't taking his time and lining it up right. I think Waynes approach is the correct one. As Wayne discovered - it ain't no big thing to fix. Take the time, do it right...
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I think I'd know normal if I saw it ... 'Calvin
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