MIM Jazz: Rough fret edges on neck

rocmonster · #1 01-19-2012, 10:12 AM

Okay, I did a lame search for the subject but didn't find the results I was looking for. Hopefully someone here can give me some guidence

I have a 2007 MIM Fender Jazz bought used - great shape, did the setup and neck adjustment myself, got just the right amount of relief in the neck, and the lowest action w/o a ton of fret buzz. My problem isn't with the set up, or fretboard playability, it's with the edges of the neck. The frets are nasty sharp as if there was no care in 'rolling' them. They feel like speed bumps when I move up and down the neck. My instinct is to file and dress the edges so that they are less obnoxiously sharp. Has anyone done this? What are the pitfalls. The neck is a typical unbound rosewood fretboard on a maple neck. I am becoming frustrated enough to pull the frets, fill the gaps, epoxy the fingerboard and go fretless and be done with it. However, I prefer to own a bass that I can actually use to gig with in a number of styles of music that require a fretted sound.

Thanks in advance for your input, this is a great community and I plan to stay (and contribute) for awhile.

funkyebk · #2 01-19-2012, 10:22 AM

It's called fret sprout. It's fairly common in winter, as humidity normally drops and wood shrinks a bit. It's an easy repair if you're careful. Easier still to pay the $50 or so to have the frets dressed by a decent tech with the "right" tools. The good news is, get it done once, and it'll probably never have to be done again.

Lo-E · #3 01-19-2012, 10:27 AM

The fingerboard on your bass has shrunk a bit since it was manufactured. Very common.

Dressing the edges is exactly right. A smooth mill file (I use one that I've cut shorter and epoxied to a piece of wood for better grip) is the weapon of choice here for me, followed by various grits of fine abrasive paper to smooth out the finished job. I often use a small, perfectly flat sanding block for this step.

If the finish on the neck comes all the way up to the edge of the fingerboard (it usually does), angle the file to minimize contact and then switch to fine abrasives just as you start to come into contact with the finished edge. To trim the tangs, you'll still need to hold the file straight, so you just need to proceed slowly and be very careful not to blast through the finish.

Once you're done, you can either round the fret ends or leave them as-is. Most big manufacturers don't bother with rounding them.

Have fun!
E

rocmonster · #4 01-19-2012, 10:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funkyebk

It's called fret sprout. It's fairly common in winter, as humidity normally drops and wood shrinks a bit. It's an easy repair if you're careful. Easier still to pay the $50 or so to have the frets dressed by a decent tech with the "right" tools. The good news is, get it done once, and it'll probably never have to be done again.

Sounds correct. I've only noticed it over the last week or so. Freakin' mid-west weather

I will follow Lo-E's suggestions and give it a whirl (as I am comfortable with doing it myself). If I feel it is a bigger issue (loose frets, or whatever) I will check with a relaible tech and have it looked at.

Thanks to you both!

Lo-E · #5 01-19-2012, 01:25 PM

If you have a Dremel tool or a grinder, I suggest making yourself a "safe" file. Take your mill file and smooth out the edges around the cutting surface so that you don't gouge the bass or the headstock if the file slips.

If that's too much of a bother, Stewart - MacDonald sells files that are made specifically for the purpose. Or you could just be extra-careful!

Either way, be sure to put several layers of low-tack painter's tape (artist's tape, masking tape) on the headstock and the areas of the body that are adjascent to the fingerboard to protect the instrument against a "Whoops!" moment.

True to Murphy's law, if you take these precautions the file won't slip at all and you won't need them, but if you don't....

timmus · #6 01-19-2012, 01:51 PM

Here's a website that shows how to make your own fret bevel file. I've made a few of them like the guy shows here...they work great and far cheaper than the $50 that Stewmac wants for theirs.

Hand Made Repair Tools

Lo-E · #7 01-20-2012, 06:52 AM

Very cool site!

The ones I made were nowhere near that fancy.

rocmonster · #8 01-20-2012, 02:14 PM

Great link timmus, thanks.

Spinal Tapper · #9 01-20-2012, 02:20 PM

I bought one of these for my Strat that is spouting some nasty sharp edges.

STEWMAC.COM : Fret End Dressing File

Haven't tried it yet, but I've heard great things.

JTE · #10 01-20-2012, 07:45 PM

While it's now common, it should NOT be expected. It simply means the wood had too much humidity in it when it was fretted. Living in Central Illinois, and having managed a guitar store for 11 years, I firmly believe it's not something anyone should expect. With central heat it can easily get down to 40% or less RH around here inside. If the manufacturer dried the wood more thoroughly it wouldn't happen, it a sign of the company putting inventory turns ahead of quality construction.

It's a LOT more common now than it was 20 years ago.

John

rocmonster · #11 01-21-2012, 09:03 AM

You're right JTE, when speaking with guitarist friends, they've experienced the same thing with more recent guitars (less than 10 years old). As for me, I've only owned bound neck or graphite basses in the past and have never noticed this situation before (over 10 years ago). I actually don't mind filing as I can make it feel perfect for my hands. I am also pretty patient so I will take my time. I will definately post the results when I am done.

thanks for all the feedback, this community rocks!

JTE · #12 01-21-2012, 03:46 PM

Fret sprout is REALLY ugly on bound necks. Part of the reason (but not the only reason) why bound necks are generally only found on more expensive instruments.

John

fhm555 · #13 01-22-2012, 09:21 AM

Not sure if it's fret sprout or just not as much time spent on finishing fender basses made in Mexico as is spent on fender basses made in the US.

I've never picked up a MIM bass that didn't have some amount of fret edge "feel" but I've never picked up a US made bass with the same thing.

Look at the ends of the frets on a US bass and they are nice and smooth and well blended into the wood around them. Look at the fret ends on a mexi bass and you will see some degree of the pinch where they were cut with whatever cutter is being used.

I took the first MIM bass I bought to a tech and had him slick up the neck edges and never had any more problem out of it and it got used in super dry indoors (gas space heaters) for a winter, then endured the super humid high heat of a NW Florida, SE Alabama, and SW Georgia summer in a series of outdoor shows and the "feel" of the neck edge never changed.

SurferJoe46 · #14 01-22-2012, 10:54 AM

'Set up' to me means dressing the fret ends too. If it needs it, do it: it's a non-issue. The OP said he did a setup - but I don't think he went far enough.

As far as buying or making special files - does anyone not know how to 'draw file' with a common mill bastard?

That ( ^ ) and a sanding block are really all one needs to round over the ends of the fret wires. And a cheap set of needle files will take care of any irregularities in the very ends of the wires then.

It's very easy and won't mess up the sides of the fingerboard either. A little wax and it's all good.

rocmonster · #15 01-22-2012, 05:46 PM

Oops, by set-up I meant that I adjusted the truss rod and set the string height. I didn't do a fret dress and excepting for the 'sprout', the frets were fine. Can't wait to get the proper tools this week and get to work. I really like the bass, I got it for a song, and it sounds great.