mineral oil bad?

spc · #1 03-24-2006, 10:32 PM

Hello,
On the recommendation of a friend, I used some mineral oil on a rag to clean my bass. My bass felt "slick" for a while, but now the back of the neck feels sticky to me (not extremely so, but more so than before I used the mineral oil)...
Is there a way to get rid of that? I'm not so comfortable with the idea of using steel wool on it... Will it wear off?
I'll do some more research next time...

Thanks

SBassman · #2 03-25-2006, 01:52 AM

Get a guitar cleaner/polish and see if it gets rid of that oil.

TheSuzie · #3 03-25-2006, 02:43 AM

What type of finish does the back of your neck have? Hard to tell what to do unless we know what the finish is.

The mineral oil is fine used in tiny amounts on a dry rosewood fingerboard but should not be used anywhere else.

Peace,
S

spc · #4 03-25-2006, 04:35 AM

It's a Lakland USA Joe Osborn, and I'm pretty sure the back of the neck is an oil finish...maybe that helps?
thanks

spc · #5 03-25-2006, 04:36 AM

The mineral oil is fine used in tiny amounts on a dry rosewood fingerboard but should not be used anywhere else.

Peace,
S

Why is that?

chucko58 · #6 03-26-2006, 06:35 PM

Rosewood and ebony boards need occasional oiling to replace the moisture content that they lose over time. I prefer using butcher block oil (a deodorized mineral oil).

You shouldn't use oils on a gloss finish. I've never heard of mineral oil hurting a gloss finish, but I suppose there's always a first time.

spc · #7 03-27-2006, 01:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chucko58

Rosewood and ebony boards need occasional oiling to replace the moisture content that they lose over time. I prefer using butcher block oil (a deodorized mineral oil).

You shouldn't use oils on a gloss finish. I've never heard of mineral oil hurting a gloss finish, but I suppose there's always a first time.

Thanks, that clears things up...

My question was what to do now...
We're talking having some oil on a rag, I didn't pour it all over the bass,,,

62bass · #8 03-27-2006, 08:02 AM

Mineral spirits will remove the oil residue. Dampen a soft cloth with it and rub the bass down completely. Buff it lightly with a soft dry cloth after it dries in a couple minutes. If there is wax on the finish the mineral spirits will remove that too, so if it goes a bit hazy, wipe it down again till the wax is completely removed.

Kurisu · #9 03-27-2006, 10:16 AM

You know what, before you do this, call Lakland and tell them your situation. With a USA Osborn... Man, just be careful or else you might ruin it.

spc · #10 03-27-2006, 12:55 PM

Good point Kurisu, I just sent an email off to Lakland. I'll post when I hear back...(thanks guys...)

Billy-Bob · #11 03-28-2006, 10:19 AM

Just 'cause I have it and always have had good luck with it, I'd try a little Formby's Lemon Oil on it. I'm betting that will cut thru the mineral oil and remove it. If not, a little orange or lemon cleaner certainly would. Mineral Spirits or other thinners sound like a bad idea, that stuff is too intrusive and will leave residue. I have never known orange or lemon cleaners to ruin anything or leave a nasty residue. Mineral oil and linseed oil tend to tack-up, which you found out the hard way. Nothing smells as good as linseed oil, tho...
I always have used a little Formby's on my fretboards with good results. Gibson guitar polish was recommended to me for protecting the finish, and works very well for that. It wears off gradually and does not leave residue or build up. For plastic (pick guard, cover plates), go to a motorcycle shop and get a spray can of Plexus. Nothing cleans and restores plastic like this stuff.

Billy-Bob

62bass · #12 03-28-2006, 12:51 PM

Billy-Bob,

Mineral spirits is paint thinner-same as Varsol. It does not leave a residue. It's the solvent used in most oil based paints and varnish. Also used to clean brushes.

Naptha is also used as a thinner by some people. It's the same thing as lighter fluid. It dries very fast compared to mineral spirits. It leaves no residue.

Linseed oil is a different thing. It does leave a residue and is used in woodworking as a finish. There are two types-"boiled" linseed oil, which dries fairly hard and the natural linseed oil which takes months to dry and leaves a sticky mess. The boiled linseed oil dries like a varnish in that it cures by oxidation. It's no longer boiled to give it this property but nowadays they use metalic additives to get it to dry, the same as paint and varnish. Tung oil is similar to linseed oil. You wouldn't use linseed oil or tung oil for cleaning.

Mineral oil is actually a thin petro chemical oil that does not dry or cure and does leave a residue. Lemon oil is mineral oil with a yellow dye and lemon scent added. Baby oil is mineral oil with a scent added.

Mineral spirits and naptha will not dissolve a hardened varnish or poly finish or even a nitro finish. They won't even soften them. Just try sometime to strip a poly finish. Regular paint strippers won't even touch it.Guitar techs use these things all the time to clean fingerboards and get gunk off finishes.(not paint strippers but mineral spirits and naptha)

Alcohol will dissolve a real nitro finish and real nitro pickguards. It won't harm cured varnish or poly finishes. It dries quickly and leaves no residue and I use it for cleaning when I know what the finish is.

The finish on the Lakland is a tough poly finish. Alcohol, mineral spirits and naptha will not harm it.

Sure, contact Lakland for advice. It won't hurt.

Actually for cleaning the finish on most basses dish soap and water works very well. as long as you don't let it get into unfinished wood. It won't dissolve built up wax though. I use mineral spirits or naptha for that.

Sorry to go into such long detail but I keep reading a lot of misinformation about these products and if unchecked it gets worse and gets really silly and becomes an old wives tale- sort of like "underpowering" and "ohmage" and other nonsense.

Billy-Bob · #13 03-28-2006, 05:50 PM

62-B, thanks for the info, but I am sticking by my comment that mineral spirits absolutely leaves a film, in my experience. I would never put that on any guitar. I have had nothing but positive results with Formby's, give it a try sometime.

Billy-Bob

Diego · #14 03-28-2006, 06:36 PM

Find out if the finish on the back of your neck is ethanol resistant and try to get a grip on 200 proof ethanol. That will remove the oil. You can use it safely on rosewood IF (carfeul here!) you re-oil the board afterwards. 200proof ethanol is pretty god at "withdrawing" moiture from surfaces so IT WILL DRY YOUR BOARD.

chucko58 · #15 03-28-2006, 07:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diego

200proof ethanol is pretty god at "withdrawing" moiture from surfaces so IT WILL DRY YOUR BOARD.

And your skin!

Diego · #16 03-28-2006, 07:28 PM

very true, be careful with that stuff. (it is drinkable though! NOTE: don't drink it!!!! even though 200 proof ethanol is not toxic if diluted to <150 proof)

Quote:

Originally Posted by chucko58

And your skin!

Mrdak · #17 04-02-2006, 08:37 AM

Best thing you could do is clean the mineral oil off the back of your neck with a little bit of dishwashing liquid,,Dawn,, and water on a rag. Rub it all over the back and clean it off with a little water then a dry cloth. Then put some good ole guitar polish on the back of your neck, and good ole lemon oil or linseed oil, on your fretboard. End of story. Oil on neck gone. back to square one. Then fill palm of hand with mineral oil before shaking hands with friend who suggested rubbing goooey ass oil on your bass. Thank him for giving you such a lousy idea. TYVM