Modulus Quantum Neck Adjustment: Help Needed!

[IdealWay]

So, the newer Modulus Quantums have a neck relief adjustment system built in, but I'm not positive about how to properly use it. I understand that this system works differently than a typical truss-rod in that there is a 'neutral' position in the center and it can be moved about 1/2 turn counterclockwise to loosen, or 1/2 turn clockwise to tighten. Currently I'm getting some pretty gnarly buzz at the 1st fret on all of the strings, and a bit more buzz than I like at other frets. I sighted the neck and it looks to have a little too much back-bow (basically flat), and when I press at the first and last frets there's virtually no space between the string and fret, so I'm thinking a small turn to the left should help the situation. I tried raising the string height today, but I'm still getting the buzz so it seems that the cure lies in the neck itself. Has anyone else experienced this or adjusted a Modulus neck? Also, what size hex key does the Modulus take? I'm going into the studio on Wednesday and really hope I can have this problem resolved by then. Thanks in advance friends!

[mikezimmerman]

I haven't tried adjusting my Modulus' neck yet, but the description in the manual is pretty much like a normal two-way truss rod adjustment. The buzzing you're describing is a typical result of too little relief, so a bit of a turn counter-clockwise should fix it right up.

The adjuster looks to me like it's either 5mm or 3/16".

[Chasarms]

I had two Q5s for years. The Adjustment is not at all like a traditional truss rod.

When you try to adjust it, do not force it. If it won't move one way, move it the other so that you can find "neutral." It should move relatively easily, and you should obviously feel it in the neutral positon. It will feel like the nut is loose.

It only takes about 1/4 turn or so in whichever direction you choose to get the maximum effect that the system creates.

If can't get the the setup amazingly good on that bass, there is something wrong. Everyone I have ever seen is set up amazingly well.

[agreatheight]

Take it to a tech! I play with all my wood necks, but leave my graphite necks to the pros.

[IdealWay]

Thanks for the advice. I don't see how I could go wrong if there are only three positions for the relief system to be set at and I know which one I need (more relief = counterclockwise). Now it's a matter of finding a hex key that fits perfectly and giving it a gentle turn. Seems like messing with a regular truss rod could get you into more trouble since you run the risk of over tightening or turning too much in a short period of time.

[Chasarms]

Originally Posted by IdealWay

Thanks for the advice. I don't see how I could go wrong if there are only three positions for the relief system to be set at and I know which one I need (more relief = counterclockwise). Now it's a matter of finding a hex key that fits perfectly and giving it a gentle turn. Seems like messing with a regular truss rod could get you into more trouble since you run the risk of over tightening or turning too much in a short period of time.

FWIW, I kept both of my Q5s and a G5 that I had in the "neutral" position and was able to get the action very low. I suspect that the neck is currently at the full clockwise position.

[IdealWay]

Originally Posted by Chasarms

FWIW, I kept both of my Q5s and a G5 that I had in the "neutral" position and was able to get the action very low. I suspect that the neck is currently at the full clockwise position.

Thanks Chasarms! I'll find a hex and give it a shot. Do you know if I should keep the tension on the strings or loosen them a little?

[ModulusTBX]

Modulus prefers to call their "Truss Rod" an "Adjustment Bar". I guess it works a little differently than your average truss rod. A little bit easier, if you ask me. Below I will refer to it as an Adjustment Bar, to prevent any confusion.

To help you with your endeavor:

You may be better off leaving the adjustment bar in the neutral position. Those necks do have some relief built into them. Depending on the string gauge, the strings should provide the proper amount of tension in the neutral position (then raise the string height at the bridge to prevent buzzing). You can tell when the adjustment bar is in the neutral position, when it falls to the left or right, with no tension (when using a hex wrench).

I had the same problem with my Genesis bass. It was too straight and needed more relief. The neutral position worked fine. Depending on the bridge adjustment, if the neutral position does not work, give the adjustment bar a very, very slight turn to the right, until you feel some tension on the wrench. Remember to always adjust slowly, a little relief can go a long way, and you will prevent stripping the adjustment bar.

Good luck!

[ModulusTBX]

Keep the bass in tune throughout this entire process. The string tension, tuned properly, will be the only way to determine if you get the buzz out of the neck. The bass will de-tune as you add relief, so after every slight adjustment, tune it up again and check for buzz. The string tension will aid in the neck's relief, throughout this entire process.

If you loosen the strings you will greatly increase the risk of over adjusting the neck and making a mess.

[IdealWay]

Originally Posted by ModulusTBX

Keep the bass in tune throughout this entire process. The string tension, tuned properly, will be the only way to determine if you get the buzz out of the neck. The bass will de-tune as you add relief, so after every slight adjustment, tune it up again and check for buzz. The string tension will aid in the neck's relief, throughout this entire process.

If you loosen the strings you will greatly increase the risk of over adjusting the neck and making a mess.

Thanks for the very helpful tips! I suspect, as Chasarms said, that it's currently in the full-clockwise position, so I'll give it a little turn and hopefully it will pop back to neutral. I'll let you guys know how it turns out.

[IdealWay]

Anyone know for certain what the hex key size is? I'm going to Lowes to buy one because all of mine are too short to make it all the way in.

[basya2]

Originally Posted by ModulusTBX

Modulus prefers to call their "Truss Rod" an "Adjustment Bar". I guess it works a little differently than your average truss rod. A little bit easier, if you ask me. Below I will refer to it as an Adjustment Bar, to prevent any confusion.

To help you with your endeavor:

You may be better off leaving the adjustment bar in the neutral position. Those necks do have some relief built into them. Depending on the string gauge, the strings should provide the proper amount of tension in the neutral position (then raise the string height at the bridge to prevent buzzing). You can tell when the adjustment bar is in the neutral position, when it falls to the left or right, with no tension (when using a hex wrench).

I had the same problem with my Genesis bass. It was too straight and needed more relief. The neutral position worked fine. Depending on the bridge adjustment, if the neutral position does not work, give the adjustment bar a very, very slight turn to the right, until you feel some tension on the wrench. Remember to always adjust slowly, a little relief can go a long way, and you will prevent stripping the adjustment bar.

Good luck!

Hi! Sorry, maybe it's stupid qustion, but should i turn clockwise looking at the relief system from the bridge side, or from the headstock side?

A clockwise direction relative to what?

Thanks!

[IdealWay]

Originally Posted by basya2

Hi! Sorry, maybe it's stupid qustion, but should i turn clockwise looking at the relief system from the bridge side, or from the headstock side?

A clockwise direction relative to what?

Thanks!

Clockwise relative to the direction you're inserting the hex key (bridge side).

I'm still looking for a definitive answer about what size hex key to use! Anyone know???

[basya2]

Originally Posted by IdealWay

Clockwise relative to the direction you're inserting the hex key (bridge side).

I'm still looking for a definitive answer about what size hex key to use! Anyone know???

Size is 3/16

[IdealWay]

Originally Posted by basya2

Size is 3/16

Thank You!

[IdealWay]

So I went and bought a new set of hex keys but they're too short after the bend to reach the socket inside the neck Luckily they were only $1, no big deal, but I need to find one that will reach so I can fix this buzzing!!! Any suggestions?
?

[basya2]

I use similar keys, chinese, very cheap...

http://gsmserver.com/newshop/images/...mm_8PK_023.jpg


http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-to...-wrenches.html

[IdealWay]

I was finally able to get the wrench in there and gave it a little turn to the left. It felt very similar to a normal truss-rod, I definitely had to use some force to get it to move, but not too much. I didn't feel a neutral position at all, but maybe I didn't turn it enough to get there? After the fact, I haven't noticed a huge difference in the action and the strings didn't detune at all, so whatever change it made was subtle. I did notice that the buzzing was a little less noticeable on the 1st frets. Think I should I give it another small turn?

[IdealWay]

Some time has gone by and I'm still having buzzing issues, even after giving the nut a few solid turns to the left. It feels kind of loose in there, like it's reached the end of it's threading or something, but no amount of turning really solved the problem

Also, for some reason my open B string has started buzzing badly! I played a gig yesterday and didn't notice any issues, then pulled the bass out of the car today and it was buzzing like crazy. I adjusted the string height pretty high and it's still there... any higher and it will be uncomfortable to play.

Any suggestions?

[cruby]

Take it to a pro, bro!