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  #1  
Old 02-04-2008, 01:41 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: SE Wisconsin
moving a bridge?

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so i recently bought an old beater bass for 80 bucks... the only identifying marks are the words "kingston" and "japan" and the number "50"... and to be honest it's one of the cooler sounding instruments i've ever heard

the problem is that the bridge (deffinately not the original) is too close to the neck for correct intonation... this brings me to my questions..

1. do me, my drill, and my screwdriver have the ability to move this thing back?

2. what are some things i should look out for whilst performing this opperation?

3. Is there a decent bridge out that that i should consider buying while i have this chance?

any advice would be greatly appreciated... thank you
  #2  
Old 02-04-2008, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dogbertday View Post
so i recently bought an old beater bass for 80 bucks... the only identifying marks are the words "kingston" and "japan" and the number "50"... and to be honest it's one of the cooler sounding instruments i've ever heard

the problem is that the bridge (deffinately not the original) is too close to the neck for correct intonation... this brings me to my questions..

1. do me, my drill, and my screwdriver have the ability to move this thing back?

2. what are some things i should look out for whilst performing this opperation?

3. Is there a decent bridge out that that i should consider buying while i have this chance?

any advice would be greatly appreciated... thank you
1. Yes.

2. There are two axes, the centerline of the body and the centerline of the bridge. They are perpendicular to one another. The centerline of the bridge should be placed at twice the distance from the nut to the twelfth fret plus 1/8" to 1/4" depending on scale length. The center of the bridge is placed on the centerline of the body. The screw holes should be drilled .015" +/- .005" smaller than the outside diameter of the screw threads. Your Kingston is probably a mahogany veneer plywood, so you can err on the tight side.

3. There are many good bridges out there. If your guitar is short scale, any of the trad Fender style bridges will work as will a BadAss II. String slots will have to be cut in the saddles of the BA II, but this will allow for more options in regards to string spacing and neck margins.

Last edited by 202dy : 02-04-2008 at 02:43 PM. Reason: Detail
  #3  
Old 02-04-2008, 02:36 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: SE Wisconsin
haha alright well i guess i have a project for next weekend then
  #4  
Old 02-05-2008, 09:14 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
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make sure you check the string spacing on the current bridge before you order a new one... They can differ from make to make.
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